Lug Nuts

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I think impacts are OK as long as the lug nuts are hand tightened first, then "snugged up" using an impact and finished off using a torque wrench.

What I suspect Sam's Club has been doing is installing the lug nuts one or two threads onto the stud, then using the impact.
 
IMO lug nuts and studs wear out/get damaged from abuse. If handled properly they should last the life of the vehicle. I know this is the exact opposite of one of the earlier posts. And, yes, I live in an area where the roads are heavily salted in the winter.

Lug nuts should always be tightened off with a torque wrench, as the final step. I use the impact for the initial tightening.

I never let tire shops touch my truck. I will take the wheels off my truck myself and take them in 'loose'. Also, this way, I don't have Costco saying "We can't sell you this tire for this truck".

Same situation with drain plugs, they do not strip unless abused.
 
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The threads on my old Corsica's wheel studs were getting a bit rough a few years ago. Worked ok, but the nut wouldn't just 'spin' on like they used to. I chased the threads on both the studs and nuts, and they work great.
 
I still have all 24 original lug nuts and studs on my 77 Chevy LUV. I have allowed tire shops to replace the tires, but do most of the other work myself. Early in its life, I started applying motor oil to the studs. I have switched to anti sieze and torquing to 80 pound feet rather than 100. Yeah I live in the salt belt too.
 
Originally Posted By: labman
I still have all 24 original lug nuts and studs on my 77 Chevy LUV. I have allowed tire shops to replace the tires, but do most of the other work myself. Early in its life, I started applying motor oil to the studs. I have switched to anti sieze and torquing to 80 pound feet rather than 100. Yeah I live in the salt belt too.


I often wonder what would happen if i brought my '69 to one of these tire places... I wonder how many studs they would snap before they figgered out that the "L" and "R" mean something on the ends of the stud
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"spec" is for a new, clean nut. Add corrosion and the forces to move it are greater. Anti-sieze basicly cancells out the corrosion and brings the system back to the "clean" spec.
 
If you use anti-sieze, just reduce the torque by about 15-20%. After a salty winter, a thin film of anti-sieze on the studs and between alloy wheels and iron disk hubs might be the difference between a 15 minute roadside tire change or a long wait for a flat bed tow.
 
Originally Posted By: CrAlt
Originally Posted By: labman
I still have all 24 original lug nuts and studs on my 77 Chevy LUV. I have allowed tire shops to replace the tires, but do most of the other work myself. Early in its life, I started applying motor oil to the studs. I have switched to anti sieze and torquing to 80 pound feet rather than 100. Yeah I live in the salt belt too.


I often wonder what would happen if i brought my '69 to one of these tire places... I wonder how many studs they would snap before they figgered out that the "L" and "R" mean something on the ends of the stud
LOL.gif



Likely only 10.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
"spec" is for a new, clean nut. Add corrosion and the forces to move it are greater. Anti-sieze basicly cancells out the corrosion and brings the system back to the "clean" spec.


I agree completely.

But the manual-readers are gonna show up soon and try you for heresy.
 
I use pipe thread sealer on the threads. It acts as a very mild lubricant and I reduce the torque by 5 to 10%. Its most important function is keeping the threads free of corrosion between wheel changes.

And definitely apply antiseize between the wheel and the hub.
 
Originally Posted By: CrAlt
I often wonder what would happen if i brought my '69 to one of these tire places... I wonder how many studs they would snap before they figgered out that the "L" and "R" mean something on the ends of the stud
LOL.gif



I still remember the first time I tried to get a left side lugnut off my Barracuda. I can't believe I didn't break off the stud.
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Meh, I slather the lug bolts/ studs,etc with chassis lube and also the contact area on the hub and wheel. I dont use a torque wrench, just the OEM lug wrench to tighten and remove the wheels. That way I can be assured of being able to change a tire on the road side. If you tighten the lugs down in a star pattern in stages you wont have any trouble. At least I havent
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Meh, I slather the lug bolts/ studs,etc with chassis lube and also the contact area on the hub and wheel. I dont use a torque wrench, just the OEM lug wrench to tighten and remove the wheels. That way I can be assured of being able to change a tire on the road side. If you tighten the lugs down in a star pattern in stages you wont have any trouble. At least I havent


same here, if you tighten them in a star pattern you shouldnt have any trouble. i've never used a torque wrench in my life, i always just use my 4-way tool. i snug up the nuts first with my fingers. then seat them fully. then proceed to make them fully tight with 2 more cycles. i've done this on steel and aluminum rims, with different types of lug nuts, including the small diameter "tuner" ones. I've never once had an issue with them backing out, and i've always been able to get them off.
 
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
lug001.jpg


Here is one of my odd aftermarket lugnuts.



GM uses this type of lug nut a lot. Usually, the outer threads are used to thread on a decorative plastic nut cover. I never heard of them using them to hold on hub caps.

My '92 Lumina had these types of lug nuts, but I've lost more than a few of the nut covers so I just bought a replacement set of Dorman nuts that use a special splined socket. No worries.
 
I use McGuard lug nuts. They're expensive, but I know I'll be able to get them off no matter what. I've never had a set rust either.
 
I should have put a pic of the aftermarket lug nut next to a factory. On a factory one the hex is twice as deep and there are only maybe 3 threads on the outside to hold the beauty cover on.

I was in a pinch once and had to use a chrome lugnut without outer threads... so I popped the plastic lugnut out of my hubcap so it would fit.
LOL.gif
 
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