lubro moly moS2 update

[demarpaint]

Another member mentioned a rise in idle speed as well, which is interesting, I thought the ECM would take care of that.

A vacuum leak is possible, I'd check for one.

The rust color is probably the cleaner at work. I'd pressure test the cooling system and be sure you don't have a head gasket leak.

 

[Spyder7]

This has caught my eye but I can't find it at Napa Canada online, and the local Napa staff is totally clueless about it and of no help. Anyone have a Napa product number or know of an alternate Canadian source?

-Spyder

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
The rust color is probably the cleaner at work. I'd pressure test the cooling system and be sure you don't have a head gasket leak.


+1

Any other HG tests? It doesnt smoke, and runs well.

Someone got rid of the "Increased idle" by adding MSD to their car, and supposedly it accelerated carbon built up on valves and pistons to be removed (a byproduct of cleaning.)

Where can i buy a Phenol/CO2-sniffer test? That should tell me, to my satisfaction.

Oh and btw.. my car is getting the Mos2 again, when i return to it.

 

[mez]

US Napa P/N AIC LM2007

 

[Spyder7]

Found that number in another thread, but when I punched it into the different searches on the Napa Canada site, no hits.

-Spyder

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: HangerHarley


Where can i buy a Phenol/CO2-sniffer test? That should tell me, to my satisfaction.

No need to buy a sniffer tester, go to any NYS repair shop that does the state inspection and pay them. They'll test all you want. Then you can report back and let us know the results. Last I heard the machine was over $50,000, it could be more now. I know a few people that would be interested in your findings.

A pressure tester will let you know if the head gasket is bad, long before smoking or hydro-locking an engine. Rust colored oil is not something I would consider normal, even after A-Rx or MMO treatments.

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: HangerHarley


Where can i buy a Phenol/CO2-sniffer test? That should tell me, to my satisfaction.

No need to buy a sniffer tester, go to any NYS repair shop that does the state inspection and pay them. They'll test all you want. Then you can report back and let us know the results. Last I heard the machine was over $50,000, it could be more now. I know a few people that would be interested in your findings.

A pressure tester will let you know if the head gasket is bad, long before smoking or hydro-locking an engine. Rust colored oil is not something I would consider normal, even after A-Rx or MMO treatments.


.. Pressure Tester? What type of "Pressure?" See, honestly, the HG may be fine, or it may be shot in one of the ways that doesnt produce smoke. Had at least one, more like two, confirmed leaks in the cooling system, leading to low, almost "no" cooling system pressure, not Super-high pressure, a la blown HG. I honestly cant call it. And there was one other Mos2 user that reported rust-colored Oil upon drain. I do not remember who it was.

What would low/no cooling pressure indicate? (Besides leaky tank and failing WP?) Mos2 did more to seal/plate/help than kill. As i said, it may be fine, but vacuum leak and or carbon from other parts may have parked on valves....

 

[demarpaint]

They make a cooling system pressure tester. That is the pressure tester you're after. Takes all guess work out of detecting cooling system leaks or HG leaks. It can also be used to check radiator caps. A great tool to have if you are really into fixing your own vehicles.

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
They make a cooling system pressure tester. That is the pressure tester you're after. Takes all guess work out of detecting cooling system leaks or HG leaks. It can also be used to check radiator caps. A great tool to have if you are really into fixing your own vehicles.


paint, not to go too fat

But i can tell you i had a -distinct- LACK of Cooling System pressure, and the leaking Expansion Tank and failing Water Pump (with coolant leaking out of it) were prime suspects.

It should be noted that the car never overheated, only "Held Heat" for some time, i always kept water in it to not let it overheat, and it never did.. and never put cold water on hot engine. But the leak from the Expansion Tank and the Water Pump weep hole WOULD account for lost coolant. Again, no smoke.

Perhaps it will all be fine after that gets changed. With some Steel Seal. And Moly!

 

[Spyder7]

Was where the coolant leaking? I hope not into the engine block.

-Spyder

 

[FowVay]

To correct a previous post, the part number for the MoS2 is LM2009, not 2007. Also, you have to tell the counter person exactly that the part number is LM2009 and the Line is 'AIC'. This has something to do with the company that NAPA buys from. Otherwise they will try to enter the part number as '2009' and the line as being 'LM'. Just a FYI if you're having trouble getting it ordered.

It's been 400 miles since I first added my MoS2 to my old Nissan and it's only getting better. I'm so impressed with this stuff that I ordered four more cans of MoS2, four cans of Oil Saver (LM2020) and four cans of Motor Flush (LM2037). haha, I spent $100 bucks at NAPA this month on Lubro Moly stuff. If their other products work half as well as their MoS2 additive I'm going to start using their motor oils too.

 

[demarpaint]

Thanks for the ordering tip. I went to a NAPA store didn't see it on the shelves, asked about ordering it and the clerk couldn't be bothered. When I need more I plan on trying another store, armed with the above info ordering it should be easy.

As a side note AAP ordered it and priced match a NAPA invoice for the stuff a Bitog buddy sent me.

 

[Vikas]

Anybody willing to try LM fuel system cleaner? That one is the most expensive product of its kind (over $15!) Since it needs to be ordered and is expensive, it has not triggered my impulse purchase buy. As everybody knows, I am sucker for fuel system cleaner hoarder and accumulate them "just in case" My basement is stocked with Regane, Techron, Seafoam, 3M, LubroMoly inector cleaner, LubroMoly valve cleaner.

- Vikas

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Was where the coolant leaking? I hope not into the engine block.

-Spyder


How woudl i know if it was? Time to hide under my chair..

Nah, it was dripping from the Water Pump. (Seemed to be going on the ground, Spyder. WP is outside engine.)

May I ask what woul dhappen if it was dripping "Into the Block"? Would my car run right "At all?" I know there was drip, many signs (Heat, lack of pressure, disappearing coolant) all semeed to point to the failing Water Pump, its drip - severe at times, when warmed, and the car never Overheated (Highway air, topping off, etc, never stopped running due to this) ...........

And yeah, Lubro-Moly looks to have a lot of good products, all pricey! Anyone ever tried them?

 

[SuperDave456]

If you had that much antifreeze going into the engine you would know. Your oil would be a chocolate pudding consistency on the dipstick and when you drained it and you would be blowing funny smelling smoke out your tailpipe if you could get the thing to run.
I've overheated a car and needed new head gaskets. Couldn't get to the side of the road fast enough as it was bumper to bumper traffic on an interstate highway and no shoulder due to construction. 6 months later is when the head went.

If you do it there is pretty much nothing you can do to "fix" the problem, other than replace the head gasket and possibly have the surfaces machined flat once again if you REALLY cooked it.

A water leak isn't that big of a deal. Just don't cook your engine. Leaks and pumps are MUCH MUCH easier and cheaper to replace and fix than a head job.

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: FowVay
To correct a previous post, the part number for the MoS2 is LM2009, not 2007. Also, you have to tell the counter person exactly that the part number is LM2009 and the Line is 'AIC'. This has something to do with the company that NAPA buys from. Otherwise they will try to enter the part number as '2009' and the line as being 'LM'. Just a FYI if you're having trouble getting it ordered.

It's been 400 miles since I first added my MoS2 to my old Nissan and it's only getting better. I'm so impressed with this stuff that I ordered four more cans of MoS2, four cans of Oil Saver (LM2020) and four cans of Motor Flush (LM2037). haha, I spent $100 bucks at NAPA this month on Lubro Moly stuff. If their other products work half as well as their MoS2 additive I'm going to start using their motor oils too.


Thanks I found it online using that part #. Called the nearest Napa and they have it in stock. Going to pick it up after work tomorrow and put it in.

-Spyder

 

[panthermike]

Are there any UOA's with this product in the oil?

 

[demarpaint]

IIRC Tornado-red? Not sure on the SN spelling posted a UOA with Lubro-moly in the sump. It was quite a while ago, maybe he'll check in.

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
IIRC Tornado-red? Not sure on the SN spelling posted a UOA with Lubro-moly in the sump. It was quite a while ago, maybe he'll check in.


The Oil color was attributed to the Moly, demar. That may have been the poster that -also- observed rust-colored Oil drain? These WAS at least one other poster that mentioned "Rust colored Oil" upon drain, first drain, after 1 can of Moly app, as I did. Perhaps MMO mixed in with it? The engine I have may be fine, coolant contamination was a possibility, technically still may be, however other things need to be looked at/replaced before HG gets blamed. HG may even be perfectly fine. There are conflicting messages all over the place.

Maybe the Moly displaced some rust. There are those that say Piston/Cylinder walls can rust. I .. find that hard to believe?

Since when did Moly "Clean" anything? r clint also doubts its abllity to plate metals and internal surfaces, something about "There is only x amount fo surface area for it to plate, so excess Moly causes things to turn to muck." That was a PRIME suspect of the neat caramel "Swirl" my Oil had, when sitting in the drain pan.. boy, having a camera would have been ideal.

FWIW, putting my hand in the Oil to see if water was sitting on the oil, as water and oil do not mix, did not yield any water. Leading me to believe more that it was weird Moly effect, not coolant. I also know Moly will, on theory, do nothing for the HG. However, if it plates things.........................

 

[demarpaint]

I can only speak from my experience, and from speaking with others. Myself and no one I know reported rust colored oil. I must have missed that thread. The moly sludge was reported by Gary Allan and he was using VSOT, which is about the same viscosity as STP oil treatment. VSOT is a totally different product, and no Gary reported no harmful effect. He stated it still leached IIRC a few UOA reports later.

The word "plates" might be a bad description that has been tagged to moly but I can tell you this. I tumble bullets with it and it "plates" itself to the bullet as well as the inside of barrel the bullets are shot through. It reduces pressure, barrel fouling, and temperature, so it has merit in those applications as well. There are quite a few postive posts about the product here, including mine. No rust colored oil came out of anything I've used it in to date.

Back to "plating", any moly that hasn't coated anything will remain mixed with the oil. Any that settles is quickly suspended again upon starting the engine. I still have a container of waste oil that contained the moly add, there is nothing unusual about this oil.

Here's something to think about, the left over moly will coat the sides of the block, the cyl head, rockers, oil pan etc. Just mix some into a qt of oil and shake it, when you pour that oil the moly treated oil still sticks the inside of the container so some will certainly remain in the engine, perhaps for a few OCI's.

People have reported reduced smoking in small engines, myself included. Others are saying it reduced oil use in car and truck engines. I'm thinking the moly might just be filling tiny voids. It does take some time for it to work, it is not something you pour in and it works like magic.

If you have doubts about the product then I would suggest not using it. Or at least wait until you are 100% certain and then go for it. That's what I did after I spend time learning about it and talking with compaines that actually produce the moly.