I bought some bottles of Lubeguard Engine Protectant on discount and wondered how it may or may not interact with an Auto Rx Maintenance Dose. I am running Redline 5w20 in my 04 2.4 Accord, Amsoil 0w30 in wife's 03 2.4 Accord, and Redline 5w30 in 96 Tercel. They all have a four ounce maintenance dose of Auto RX. The Lubeguard Engine protectant uses the LXE ester derived from either seeds or vegetables. It seems like a quality product especially based on transmission additive. Is this Ester overkill? Will the animal esters in Auto Rx combat the Lubeguard esters? Or will this combination keep the engine ultra clean and cool? I would be interested in all opinions.
Lubeguard Engine and Auto RX?
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Auto-Rx will remove this other chemistry as it will see it as a contaminant. It is never good to mix chemistry,s
There is no need to put MMO in your engine. Especially when you already have ARX on hand.
Also sorry to hijack, but just how compatible/incompatible are the LubeGuard esters/add packs with Red Line's ester base stock/add packs, with NO ARX added??
I'm NOT asking "do I need it?", so don't comment on how it's not needed with Red Line, just on it's compatibility (if you know).
I'm NOT asking "do I need it?", so don't comment on how it's not needed with Red Line, just on it's compatibility (if you know).
Originally Posted By: 1WildPig
The MMO was already in the engine oil before getting the Auto-RX....so, will it still work?
No. Dump the MMO before putting in the ARX or the ARX will spend it's time attacking the MMO rather than the dirt in the engine.
The MMO was already in the engine oil before getting the Auto-RX....so, will it still work?
No. Dump the MMO before putting in the ARX or the ARX will spend it's time attacking the MMO rather than the dirt in the engine.
Most likely you wasted the ARX. Get another bottle and start over, IMHO.
Well darn, thanks for the info....not to sound unappreciative of your opinion, but if Frank is monitoring this, I'd like to hear from him as well before I dump what I already have in there...I mean, if it'll do anything at all, I'd rather not waste it....of course, it he says that it's just a lost effort then I'll go on and start completely over...again, thanks....
If you are going to mix things, probably better to stick to rum and CocaCola.
Yep, going by what Tempest said, I could use a little whiskey in my coke about now...sigh...
Just to clarify my potential f'up; The 16 oz of MMO has been in the engine for 1K miles...I then received my ARX and not finding anything specifically forbidding the mixing of the two, I then removed my oil filter, dumped it out, put it back on and added the ARX to the crankcase. The vehicle in question is a '99 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC engine with a 169K on the clock that looks nasty under the oil filler cap - however, no leaks or consumption during the last 1K miles....now, where's that drink!
I sent Frank a PM to read this thread and please comment....
Again, sorry to have hijacked the thread..
Just to clarify my potential f'up; The 16 oz of MMO has been in the engine for 1K miles...I then received my ARX and not finding anything specifically forbidding the mixing of the two, I then removed my oil filter, dumped it out, put it back on and added the ARX to the crankcase. The vehicle in question is a '99 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 SOHC engine with a 169K on the clock that looks nasty under the oil filler cap - however, no leaks or consumption during the last 1K miles....now, where's that drink!
I sent Frank a PM to read this thread and please comment....
Again, sorry to have hijacked the thread..
Run it out and see. ARX is pretty amazing at what it does. I'm sure it will do what it says it will do. But don't take that as gospel.
Originally Posted By: 1WildPig
The 16 oz of MMO has been in the engine for 1K miles...
There are two reasons to change your oil first. I wouldn't put ARX into 1,000 mile oil particularly after MMO had a go at it. If MMO does what it claims that oil should be dirty. The instructions clearly state that clean new oil is what ARX needs.
Originally Posted By: Auto-RX Web Site
First change your motor oil and filter. Add one full 12 oz bottle of Auto-Rx® to your engine.
Considering you've done the deed I'd just let it go the full run unless you have a good reason to pay extra to get the cleaning done quick. If the ARX does something you can just call it a double clean.
The 16 oz of MMO has been in the engine for 1K miles...
There are two reasons to change your oil first. I wouldn't put ARX into 1,000 mile oil particularly after MMO had a go at it. If MMO does what it claims that oil should be dirty. The instructions clearly state that clean new oil is what ARX needs.
Originally Posted By: Auto-RX Web Site
First change your motor oil and filter. Add one full 12 oz bottle of Auto-Rx® to your engine.
Considering you've done the deed I'd just let it go the full run unless you have a good reason to pay extra to get the cleaning done quick. If the ARX does something you can just call it a double clean.
Actually, I did a blotter test before adding the ARX and it looked pretty darn clean to have run the 1k with the MMO, that's the reason I went ahead and added it...
Yep, I'll leave it as is unless Frank says otherwise...
Paging Frank, Paging Frank, Please report to the OIl ADDITIVES forum stat!!!
Yep, I'll leave it as is unless Frank says otherwise...
Paging Frank, Paging Frank, Please report to the OIl ADDITIVES forum stat!!!
Interesting thread. Maybe while Frank answers your question he can answer this one too:
I have a stash of VSOT and was wondering if after the ARX clean rinse phase is complete if 1 OZ VSOT / qt of oil can be used along with a 4 oz main't dose of ARX? Or would the ARX attack the VSOT?
Thanks,
Frank D
I have a stash of VSOT and was wondering if after the ARX clean rinse phase is complete if 1 OZ VSOT / qt of oil can be used along with a 4 oz main't dose of ARX? Or would the ARX attack the VSOT?
Thanks,
Frank D
Tempest posts above are correct. You're wasting your Auto-Rx in cleaning out another chemistry rather than sludge, contaminants, third party abrasives that Auto-Rx is formulated to get rid of.
demarpaint: Regarding your post. One ounce of VSOT is not going to significantlly affect the cleaning abilities of Auto-Rx.
Clarification of status of initial cleaning oil. Auto-Rx will clean in dirty oil if it is necessary, the exception being if you have sludge issues, it is mandatory you start off you start off with clean oil and a clean filter. I would do so no matter what the application is. It is not an expensive investment.
demarpaint: Regarding your post. One ounce of VSOT is not going to significantlly affect the cleaning abilities of Auto-Rx.
Clarification of status of initial cleaning oil. Auto-Rx will clean in dirty oil if it is necessary, the exception being if you have sludge issues, it is mandatory you start off you start off with clean oil and a clean filter. I would do so no matter what the application is. It is not an expensive investment.
I can understand the concept of Auto RX cleaning solvent based additive. I thought that Auto RX would compete with the esters in Lubeguard bio-tech similar to competing with esters with certain synthetic oils. How does Auto RX differentiate between an oil additive package and an additive that is added to the oil? The following statements were taken from a ATP Industries Ltd
Victoria St, Hednesford, WS12 1BU, UK that sells Lubeguard.
"The ester technology provides a long linear chain of carbon atoms that are surrounded by oxygen molecules. The oxygen atoms have a negative charge, which attracts the ester molecule to metal surfaces. When these LXE® molecules pick up the heat of the metal components, the attraction of the oxygen atoms moves the heat outward and directs it to areas (cooling system, block and heads) where it is readily discharged or released. This results in lower temperatures."
"LUBEGARD’S synthetic Liquid Wax Esters (LXE) and its derivatives are functional molecules made in reactors.
* Esters are well known for high temperature stability. The molecules created by reacting alcohols with organic acids derived from seed oils to create a molecule that is very difficult to degrade, even at high temperatures.
* Liquid Wax Esters have exceptional thermal stability, low-temperature properties, natural detergency and lubricity.
* The polar nature of the chemical bonds of the LXE molecule allow the esters to more readily adhere to metal surfaces to enhance the load carrying capacity of the oils they are added to.
* Esters are friendly to seal and gasket materials and do not harden or “swell’ seals.
Contains no teflon®, graphite or zinc to increase sludge or deposits"
Victoria St, Hednesford, WS12 1BU, UK that sells Lubeguard.
"The ester technology provides a long linear chain of carbon atoms that are surrounded by oxygen molecules. The oxygen atoms have a negative charge, which attracts the ester molecule to metal surfaces. When these LXE® molecules pick up the heat of the metal components, the attraction of the oxygen atoms moves the heat outward and directs it to areas (cooling system, block and heads) where it is readily discharged or released. This results in lower temperatures."
"LUBEGARD’S synthetic Liquid Wax Esters (LXE) and its derivatives are functional molecules made in reactors.
* Esters are well known for high temperature stability. The molecules created by reacting alcohols with organic acids derived from seed oils to create a molecule that is very difficult to degrade, even at high temperatures.
* Liquid Wax Esters have exceptional thermal stability, low-temperature properties, natural detergency and lubricity.
* The polar nature of the chemical bonds of the LXE molecule allow the esters to more readily adhere to metal surfaces to enhance the load carrying capacity of the oils they are added to.
* Esters are friendly to seal and gasket materials and do not harden or “swell’ seals.
Contains no teflon®, graphite or zinc to increase sludge or deposits"
Again...If I have to choose between lovers, I mean oil additives I would choose Auto RX. My aforementioned Toyota Tercel was losing from half-quart to a full quart of oil every thousand miles. I did two 1500 miles Auto RX and 2000 miles rinse cycles. I then started a maintenance dose, and noted Auto RX changed recommendations. So at 5000 miles I added a full bottle of Auto RX and ran oil out another 2500 miles, which was 7500 miles total on oil. I then did a 3000 mile rinse and put Redline Synthetic 5w30 with a four ounce Auto RX maintenance dose. The car has over 2000 miles on the oil and I have not needed to add any oil. The car also feels as responsive as a 92 horsepower engine can feel. I do love Auto RX...I just wish it was nicer to other additives.
Thanks for the reply Frank...
I understand that it would have been better if nothing else was in the oil but are you saying that the ARX will ONLY attack the MMO in the oil and do nothing else? I was hoping that since MMO was mostly mineral spirits with some napthenic hydrocarbons and was already mixed with the oil and the oil was not dirty as of yet that the ARX would still work on the carbon deposits/sludge stuck to the metal in the engine..??..
Sooo, has the MMO completely canceled out the ARX or just gave it something else to deal with and the ARX will still help somewhat? OR, have I completely wasted both products and am no better off than if it was just the oil alone? Or, have I created a chemical mess that will do more harm than good??
I understand that it would have been better if nothing else was in the oil but are you saying that the ARX will ONLY attack the MMO in the oil and do nothing else? I was hoping that since MMO was mostly mineral spirits with some napthenic hydrocarbons and was already mixed with the oil and the oil was not dirty as of yet that the ARX would still work on the carbon deposits/sludge stuck to the metal in the engine..??..
Sooo, has the MMO completely canceled out the ARX or just gave it something else to deal with and the ARX will still help somewhat? OR, have I completely wasted both products and am no better off than if it was just the oil alone? Or, have I created a chemical mess that will do more harm than good??
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