LubeGard Red in 6L90??

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I'm a big LubeGard Red fanboy. I've run it many of my cars/trucks (all from the 1990's--2005) with great success.

However, now that I have 100K on my 2018 Silverado 3500, I thought about running it in my truck. What are you opinions?

The truck has had impeccable tranny services. 3 complete fluid swaps and a single pan drop and filter change. But I "THINK" I'm starting to notice a slight flare possibly. So I thought about dosing some of my favorite ATF sauce into her.

Looking for any advice.....especially anyone who has experience with LubeGard in a 6L80 or 6L90.....

TIA.
Steve
 

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I'm a big LubeGard Red fanboy. I've run it many of my cars/trucks (all from the 1990's--2005) with great success.
When you say with great success, do you mean it hasn't damaged anything, those transmissions haven't had any problems, or that it's fixed problems?
 
When you say with great success, do you mean it hasn't damaged anything, those transmissions haven't had any problems, or that it's fixed problems?
It means I've got 300k+ miles in those 3 vehicles without any AT troubles..... 1990 Silverado, 2003 Subaru Forester, and 2010 Accord.
 
I'm a big LubeGard Red fanboy. I've run it many of my cars/trucks (all from the 1990's--2005) with great success.

However, now that I have 100K on my 2018 Silverado 3500, I thought about running it in my truck. What are you opinions?

The truck has had impeccable tranny services. 3 complete fluid swaps and a single pan drop and filter change. But I "THINK" I'm starting to notice a slight flare possibly. So I thought about dosing some of my favorite ATF sauce into her.

Looking for any advice.....especially anyone who has experience with LubeGard in a 6L80 or 6L90.....

TIA.
Steve
Use it. A trans fuzzy logic refresh may help with the flare. I’ve used Valvoline MaxLife ATF with LubeGard Red in my G8.
 
If it is compatible with the fluid then I would use it. I add it to any vehicle I own that it is compatible with as preventative measures. It has helped w all 3 of my last vehicles that had 4l60s and there 1st to 2nd hard cold shift. Great stuff. Also if you can do a drain and refill, I would do that first with your favorite fluid then add the lube gard
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Yeah seriously you guys almost got me to buy some of that today... And I would have mixed that with Maxlife atf in my 06 Acura.

I went to the Honda dealership and got DW-1 ATF for $9.92 a quart.

Though next time I could very well get the Lubegard red and Maxlife atf when I drain and refill 3 quarts.

I trust Dr Molakule and you all's experience and advise on here a lot.
 
It’s one of those additives that is purely protective in an application that’s running well, and a gentle “correction” for trans’ that have sticky valves or ball checks. Nothing fancy, but definitely worth the small investment!
 
Yeah man I know you are right about all of that...

Lubegard makes legit great products.


I really, really, really just about bought that earlier today...

If the dealership price for the DW-1 would have been dumb say like $15 a quart...

I would have bought the Lubegard red and the Maxlife atf.
 
When you say with great success, do you mean it hasn't damaged anything, those transmissions haven't had any problems, or that it's fixed problems?
SRR said:
Lubegard Red is one of the extremely few aftermarket additives that has OEM endorsement for use, and AFAIK the only trans supplement that @MolaKule has given a thumbs up for as well.
 
Be honest with you my Acura was running goofy with the old used up DW-1 in there... Changed out 3 qts and refilled with 3 fresh DW-1 qts and it really helped the car operate much, much, much better... . No more terrible down shifting when adding hard throttle at cruising speeds... Now it shifts perfectly and it really gets power and speed much better too.
Did the next drain and refill with 3 qts of Maxlife atf.
Then today with 3 qts of Honda DW-1.

Should be good for awhile now.
 
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Be honest with you my Acura was running goofy with the old used up DW-1 in there... Changed out 3 qts and refilled with 3 fresh DW-1 qts and it really helped the car operate much, much, much better... . No more terrible down shifting when adding hard throttle at cruising speeds... Now it shifts perfectly and it really gets power and speed much better too.
Did the next drain and refill with 3 qts of Maxlife atf.
Then today with 3 qts of Honda DW-1.

Should be good for awhile now.
Yes, remember many of the Hondas are actually much closer to a solenoid-shifted manual trans (per Mola’s excellent discussion elsewhere on the board) so there are shift forks & pads involved. The old fluid is not optimal for these & can really make operation jerky.

My personal plan for success is to catch the Honda up with fully fresh fluid (4x D&F) then every other OCI (or what makes closest to 20k) dump a single trans sump & top it off. Also, keep the PCV clean & replace every 2 years.
 
Yes EXACTLY ^^^^

That explains why I was noticing what happened with my Acura.

Dr Molakule called them a " automated manual" if I'm remembering right.


And your plan is what I'm doing right now...

And if I'm thinking right there are certain selenoids that can definitely cause issues too.... And that those are actually not hard to replace on the 5 speed transmissions in Acura and Honda's.
 
Yes, remember many of the Hondas are actually much closer to a solenoid-shifted manual trans (per Mola’s excellent discussion elsewhere on the board) so there are shift forks & pads involved. The old fluid is not optimal for these & can really make operation jerky.
Only in the REALLY old 3/4 speed trans. All of the 5/6 speeds are hydraulic clutches.

What usually causes rough shifting is certain clutches coming on before others come off. If they're on the same shaft the trans will bind, and then you have your rough shifting, but, on the other hand, you can't be too slow either or it will flare and eat up the clutches. That's why people that use other fluids sometimes see firmer shifting, and one of the reasons why Z1/DW1 is loaded with certain additives (to smooth out the shifts).
 
I use it in my 08 Acura TL in signature with the Honda DW1 every spill and fill about 15-20K. Noticeable improvement since purchased in 2012 with 67,xxx miles and being second owner.
 
Dude.... reset worked!!

Then I dosed in 20 oz. of Lubegard Red I had laying around.

But the reset worked immediately

Use it. A trans fuzzy logic refresh may help with the flare. I’ve used Valvoline MaxLife ATF with LubeGard Red in my G8.
Use it. A trans fuzzy logic refresh may help with the flare. I’ve used Valvoline MaxLife ATF with LubeGard Red in my G8.
 
Nice. Yes, the trans logic reset is almost always the missing link in flares & hard shifts. It’s easy to do in ForScan and the Subaru tools; most other vehicles just need ~30 mins off the battery to “lose” the adjustments to the logic. It forces the PCM to readjust clutches with the fresher fluid. Glad it helped!!
 
Nice. Yes, the trans logic reset is almost always the missing link in flares & hard shifts. It’s easy to do in ForScan and the Subaru tools; most other vehicles just need ~30 mins off the battery to “lose” the adjustments to the logic. It forces the PCM to readjust clutches with the fresher fluid. Glad it helped!!
in my truck, all you do is roll the key to on (without starting it) and then press gas pedal to floor for 15 seconds. Then with the pedal still depressed, turn ignition off. Wait 5 minutes. Go for a ride.... very easy and convenient
 
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