Lube Lug Nut Bolt Threads?

[Roger]

If you did, what lubricant would you use?

I am seriously considering it. I understand manufacturers generally do not recommend the practice. Yesterday I tried to rotate the tires on a '12 CRV yesterday and had to use a sledge hammer on the lug nut wrench to break the set. Dealer rotated the tires 6K ago and must have over torqued. Wheel hubs were also rusted and the all the wheels stuck to the rim once the nuts were off the bolts. Vehicle is not garaged, sits outside. Reinstalled wheels with the proper torque, but man oh man, did those lug nuts ever squeal when tightened.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Absolutely!

I use anything, really. Drain oil or grease on the lug studs, and grease around the hub surface so the alloy wheels do not corrode to the hub.

The squealing is precisely why you need to lube them. If you used a torque wrench, and it was squealing going on, you have an inaccurate reading and the lug nut is not tightened enough.

Remember, it's not the tightness of the threads that hold the lug nut tight, it's the difference in the taper of the lug nut and wheel, compressed together.

 

[Brybo86]

I usually put a touch of grease on them, random high temp grease is what I used, lug nuts always come off with little strain

 

[eljefino]

I wouldn't put the grease on if it ever goes back to the dealer. Even if you're in for something unrelated they might make the tech pull the wheels for a free brake inspection/ upsell.

When lubed threads are overtorqued it'll stretch or snap the studs. Then, oddly, it'll be your fault and you who pays.

Beware, this debate has been hashed out before with religious fervor.

 

[Roger]

Quote:
Beware, this debate has been hashed out before with religious fervor.


Assumed so, but searched and couldn't find any.

 

[larryinnewyork]

I use a small amount of general purpose grease and reduce torque by 10%.

I have steel rims and put same grease on mating surface of (front) rotors and (rear) drums.

I use my trusted torque wrench (made by Armstrong).

Never had a problem.
Still have memories of when I was younger and saw family members attempting to remove rusted & overtorqued lug nuts.

 

[UG_Passat]

Put some copper anti-seize on the brake rotor face (or drum) where it contacts the wheels to prevent seizing.

I have my trust 18V DeWalt cordless impact wrench to remove lug bolts.

 

[Boomer]

My Chevy dealer with whom I dealt for over thirty years always had the shop put a drop of ATF on the threads. Never had any rusting issues and never had them overtorque anything or break anything.

 

[Papa Bear]

I use Neverseez on lugs, hubs and backing locations.

All the best.

Bob R

 

[ronbo]

Originally Posted By: larryinnewyork
I use a small amount of general purpose grease and reduce torque by 10%.

I have steel rims and put same grease on mating surface of (front) rotors and (rear) drums.

I use my trusted torque wrench (made by Armstrong).

Never had a problem.
Still have memories of when I was younger and saw family members attempting to remove rusted & overtorqued lug nuts.


I concur, except I use no lube on my threads. Every April and October I take my brake caliper pins out to re-lube hence I exercise the threads.

 

[bigt61]

I use any old motor oil laying around - a drop or so - makes removal easier. I torque good and snug with a breaker bar. 80 ft lbs is usually enough for everything so they don't fall off.

 

[zzyzzx]

I use a small amount of lube there. There was some there from the factory and I bought the car new.

 

[Traction]

Never, ever use any type of grease/oil on wheel studs!!! Only on hub if they like to stick on. Lug nuts might of been squealing because the threads where stretched, which changes the thread spacing. They can also stretch from using grease. I only sometimes use a little WD-40 if the lug and threads are dry and rusty.

 

[Rand]

I use nothing if needed ill zap it with kroil to get them off.
the residue is enough.

 

[CapriRacer]

Yes, it has been debated before - and here is the gist of it.

The torque values listed in service manuals are for DRY threads. If you use a lubricant, you have to compensate for the lube's slipperiness and use a lower torque value - BUT - that value varies according to which lube you use.

So I use neverseize on everything else, but NOT the threads. I make sure I don't cross thread by starting them by hand - 10 twists would be about 2 turns.

 

[Kestas]

The engineers that I work with who design Class 8 truck hub units specify using two drops of oil on each stud before running down the lug nut.

Many studs, especially aftermarket, have a phos and oil finish.

I'd also like to point out that the higher end studs have a Dacromet coating, which is very similar to antiseize compound. The only difference is that Dacromet uses an organic paint carrier versus the oil carrier in antiseize.

 

[Ken2]

Grease or antiseize on the boss the wheel center pilot hole sits on is smart, after you've chipped or wirebrushed the rust off.

Remember that torque is a twisting force, but the clamping force keeps the wheel on. The correct twist (torque) on the threads in the specified condition provides the correct clamping force. Lube makes the twist easier, so the otherwise correct torque on a now-lubed thread and nut face makes the clamping force much greater--no friction to fight as part of the equations. Just the clamping isn't a problem, no gasket or anything else to squeeze out, but stretching, breaking, or stripping the threads is a real problem.

The torque setting needs to know the lube--oil, grease, antiseize, or dry--the metal of the fasteners, and the surface treatment of the fasteners.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Roger
If you did, what lubricant would you use?

I am seriously considering it. I understand manufacturers generally do not recommend the practice. Yesterday I tried to rotate the tires on a '12 CRV yesterday and had to use a sledge hammer on the lug nut wrench to break the set. Dealer rotated the tires 6K ago and must have over torqued. Wheel hubs were also rusted and the all the wheels stuck to the rim once the nuts were off the bolts. Vehicle is not garaged, sits outside. Reinstalled wheels with the proper torque, but man oh man, did those lug nuts ever squeal when tightened.


I wonder if this vehicle resides near a damp/salty area. I have only experienced the scenario you described if the vehicle has not had the tires off in a very long time.

Side note, if the threads are squeaking, make sure there isn't any debris on the threads. Discount Tire zapped on my lug nuts last time and they wiped out one of the studs -- and this was probably due to some debris or a burr on the stud that went unnoticed.

 

[CharBaby]

I use a small amount of neverseize on the threads and only have to reapply a little extra now & again. Never an issue! Handles winter & summer temps and foul weather, road salt & grime over the years