Lots of Caravan tranny advice

[coopns]

02 Grand Caravan Sport, 60K. Tranny fluid never changed. I want get the tran fluid flushed, think this is ok at this stage? Should I change the filter before the flush? If I get the flush done at the dealer, will they use a stock brand of ATF?

Should I go with Synthetic Trans fluid?

Also, is there a engine flush?

 

[Idrinkmotoroil]

my personal advice is just to get the fluid changed and filter changed, avoid a full flush and avoid use of cleaning compounds. ATF is a strong cleaner on its own, and you don't want to dislodge all of the old crud at once. When you do a fluid change you only get out about 1/4 of the actual fluid that is in the tranny system, so you end up getting a slow clean. I think this is best on a tranny with a bit of miles on it, because if you loosen too much build-up at once you risk having it clog things up. I would get the dealer do a basic fluid and filter change, I would stick with the recommended ATF+4 fluid which they sell. It is easy enough to do yourself if you dont mind working on cars, otherwise just get the dealer to do it. It's relatively cheap.

 

[Ugly3]

quote:

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Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:
my personal advice is just to get the fluid changed and filter changed, avoid a full flush and avoid use of cleaning compounds. ATF is a strong cleaner on its own, and you don't want to dislodge all of the old crud at once. When you do a fluid change you only get out about 1/4 of the actual fluid that is in the tranny system, so you end up getting a slow clean. I think this is best on a tranny with a bit of miles on it, because if you loosen too much build-up at once you risk having it clog things up. I would get the dealer do a basic fluid and filter change, I would stick with the recommended ATF+4 fluid which they sell. It is easy enough to do yourself if you dont mind working on cars, otherwise just get the dealer to do it. It's relatively cheap.

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Gee, my experience is not in line with yours. I find ATF to have a low level of cleaners, it is a hydraulic fluid not a motor oil. My trans (98 Chrysler T&C) holds 17 pints total and 8 are in the pan, so about 50% replacement with a fluid change. The local Jiffy Lube wants about $80 to do a filter change and add 4 quarts of fluid, pretty expensive if you ask me.

 

[Ken2]

An Auto-Rx cleaning of the transmission would be a very good idea. After that, a complete flush and renewal of the fluid. DaimlerChrysler ATF+4 is a synthetic, or you could use a transmission fluid said to work well in D-C transmissions like Schaeffer #204SAT or Amsoil, or use a synthetic Dexron-III ATF like Mobil 1 plus a bottle of Lubegard HFM black-bottle supplement.


Ken

 

[trynew]

If this is a first time change, expect a battle getting the pan to come loose.

A local Chrysler dealer charges $4.82 per quart for ATF+4 in plastic bottles, or if I bring in my own jug and buy it bulk, it's $2.82 per quart.

On that tranny, it would be a good idea to splice a filter into the transmission cooler line, either a Magnefine (site sponsor), or a Perma-Cool (or equivalent) kit that uses an oil filter. The Magnefine is the easiest to install. The nice thing about the Perma-cool is that you can replace filters in the future for a couple of dollars and it probably adds a little more cooling to the fluid. I went that route and mounted it horizontally below the radiator.

 

[kenw]

since when is chrysler still adjusting bands? I thought that went out in the 60s.....

I specifically remember asking about that on the 2nd rebuild of my last (and I mean last) chryler vehicle. The dealer and my mechanic both said there wasn't a band to adjust on modern xmissions.

 

[RF Overlord]

quote:

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Originally posted by coopns:
they charge 169 for flusid flush, drop pan and adjustment of bands. Doesn't sound too bad or does it?

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Considering you can do the entire job yourself in about an hour, I'd say it's way too much...it's no harder than changing the fluid on your Taurus...

 

[coopns]

I just called the dealer and he said they charge 169 for flusid flush, drop pan and adjustment of bands. Doesn't sound too bad or does it? Or should I do the pan then have them do the flush and bands.

 

[coopns]

I called the dealer back this afternoon, and he changed his tune, said he doesn't do a flush. What the...sobriety testing. He said the use RTV Sealer (is that what is is?)for the pan, not a cork flange. Can I get the RTV Sealer at Autozone or other stores? He said it is like a paste.

I did the Taurus, really wasn't bad. Will change again on next oil change.

Thanks for the advice and support.

 

[unDummy]

The RTV is available at most autoparts and dept/hardware stores.

For ~$15, some AT filter kits include a gasket.

 

[coopns]

Is this a big procedure or something a mechanic would have to do?

On that tranny, it would be a good idea to splice a filter into the transmission cooler line, either a Magnefine (site sponsor), or a Perma-Cool (or equivalent) kit that uses an oil filter. The Magnefine is the easiest to install. The nice thing about the Perma-cool is that you can replace filters in the future for a couple of dollars and it probably adds a little more cooling to the fluid. I went that route and mounted it horizontally below the radiator.

 

[trynew]

If you buy a Magnefine filter (advertised on this site), all you should have to do is cut out a 3.75 inch section of a rubber hose and install the filter with some hose clamps. There are 2 such hoses on a transmission. On my Caravan, and I believe yours, the fluid flows toward the radiator in the hose closest to the wheel and returns to the transmission on the hose closest to the engine. Just get the arrows on the filter to point in the direction of the oil flow.

The filter inside the transmission (on almost any transmission) is almost worthless for keeping the fluid clean. It will let through almost all impurities except large bits that probably would come from a disintegrating transmission. The Magenefine and the types that use an oil filter (sold at Jegs or Summit Racing) do a much better job of removing smaller particles. The oil filter types do require drilling 3 mounting holes and putting in some screws. I think Ford has installed Magnefine type filters on some of their transmissions and power steering units to make them last longer.

As far as other suggestions about the change, the cork gasket is the easiest to work with. You should be able to get an oil change kit from auto parts stores with this gasket.

An even better way is to purchase a re-useable steel gasket from your Chrysler dealer. Read the quote below from another thread on this site:

quote:

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the steel replacement gasket route is preferred--after you get that RTV crap
cleaned off the first time, you won't have to do it again. It pays for the
$30 investment in the steel gasket in your time.

Incidently, you're going to need a part number for the gasket when you go to
the dealership; they have a tendency to play dumb and pretend they've never
heard of such a thing. (part of) The TSB is cut and pasted below.
PARTS REQUIRED:

**1 05011113AA Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 31TH**
**1 05011114AA Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 42LE**
1 05011115AA Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 41TE/AE

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I a not sure which transmission you have. You should be able to ask your dealer and then choose one of the above.

If you have trouble getting the pan off, it might be best to start in rear corner nearest the engine and pry. Be careful not to hurt the surfaces.

If you want to flush the system yourself so that almost all the fluid gets replaced, that is not hard to do.

 

[RF Overlord]

quote:

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Originally posted by coopns:
Can I get the RTV Sealer at Autozone or other stores?

I did the Taurus, really wasn't bad. Will change again on next oil change.

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When I changed the ATF on my niece's '94 LeBaron, I just used the gasket that came with the filter, no sealer or RTV. That was last August and the pan is still dry...no leaks at all. Just be sure the pan flange and the transaxle case are clean and straight, and you shouldn't have any problems. Also, DON'T over-tighten the pan bolts...that's the #1 cause of leaks and damaged gaskets/flanges. 10-14 ft/lbs is plenty.

 

[coopns]

How should I know how tight to go? On the Taurus I did snug then gaver' another half turn.

Also, I got the filter from the dealer with the fluid. The filter has an orange o ring on it. Does it matter how I put that on? Can I insert the filter with the o ring on or should I take the o-ring off, fit it on, then install the filter or does it matter?

They wanted 40 for that reusable filter at the dealer (he hadn't heard of it and had to look it up), so I ended up going with the RTV sealer. I kind of wish I got it, but he didn't have it in stock.

Thanks for the help.

 

[RF Overlord]

Coop, if you're going to be doing even limited maintenance on a couple of vehicles, things like ATF changes, tune-ups, etc, you really should get yourself a decent torque wrench...in the "good ol' days" when everything was cast iron and steel, you'd just tighten stuff up until it "felt right". Now that everything is made of cast white metal and aluminium, the risk of breaking bolts and/or stripping threads is just too great.

As regards the orange O-ring, leave it on the filter...the old one should come out with the old filter, but if it doesn't, don't panic...just pull it out of the bore being careful not to scratch up the inside. Put a tiny bit of fresh ATF on the new O-ring when you install the new filter.

 

[deepsquat]

Coopns...good for you deciding to do this your- self...you may even want to consider...while you have the pan off...installing a drain bolt...to make to process much easier in the future ...you will be able to drain the tranny fluid while you do the engine oil , ask about a kit to do it at an autozone , my Nissan Altima has one from the factory ,I have changed my fluid at least 15 times in the last 100,000 miles,and I now ( for the last year ) have an external filter as well.

 

[coopns]

Went well. Only my second go, the first was on my Taurus. The pan was easier to get at and had a slight tilt downwards. It was the first change here at 60K. Fluid looked fine, the magnet was pretty thick though. I cleaned'er all out, scrapped off all the old RTV gunk with a utility knife, made sure everything was dry and clean.. Applied the new RTV, spread it all out, waited 3 or 4 mins. and inserted the new o-ring and then filter. Tightened things up. No leaks. If I was to see any leakage, would it happen in a day or two? I just don't trust the RTV sealer. It was stuck on pretty good, had to pry it off.

Should I get a flush next time or just do same deal. I will get a plug next time as well.

Thanks again for all the advice and recommendations. Two weeks ago, I had never done an oil change, didn't even know where to check the trans. fluid. Now, through everyones help, I have changed both cars oil and tranny. Really wasn't too bad.

Coop

 

[RF Overlord]

quote:

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Originally posted by coopns:
Two weeks ago, I had never done an oil change...Now, through everyones help, I have changed both cars oil and tranny.

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It's a good feeling, isn't it?

Way to go, Coop...

 

[deepsquat]

quote:

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Originally posted by coopns:
Went well. Only my second go, the first was on my Taurus. The pan was easier to get at and had a slight tilt downwards. It was the first change here at 60K. Fluid looked fine, the magnet was pretty thick though. I cleaned'er all out, scrapped off all the old RTV gunk with a utility knife, made sure everything was dry and clean.. Applied the new RTV, spread it all out, waited 3 or 4 mins. and inserted the new o-ring and then filter. Tightened things up. No leaks. If I was to see any leakage, would it happen in a day or two? I just don't trust the RTV sealer. It was stuck on pretty good, had to pry it off.

Should I get a flush next time or just do same deal. I will get a plug next time as well.

Thanks again for all the advice and recommendations. Two weeks ago, I had never done an oil change, didn't even know where to check the trans. fluid. Now, through everyones help, I have changed both cars oil and tranny. Really wasn't too bad.

Coop

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do the same deal...just don't wait 60,000 miles next time ..or you will be replacing that tranny before you make it to 120,000