Looks like end of the lawn mower :-(

[Vikas]

It is spewing oil somewhere from the top when I start it. I do not have puller to remove the flywheel but it must be coming from underneath. The entire engine gets coated with the oil and starts dripping on the deck.

The video did not come out well but everything is covered with thick layer of oil.

Given the prior history of burning oil and now this pouring out, the time has come to either junk the whole mower or at least the engine. The composite deck has lots cracks; one of the wheel ratcheting mechanism is very balky, the tires are completely bald but I am still tempted to re-power this HF engine.

This mower has the continuously variable speed hydraulic transmission with the brake blade clutch, so that the engine keeps on running when the blade is disengaged. (HRB15 HXA)

Comments? Suggestions? Already tried ATP-205 in the oil, so it probably is something more than the top main seal. May be the crankcase has a crack but unless I take the flywheel out, I will not be able to see it.

 

[Errtt]

"Comments? Suggestions? "

If that's the same mower that was giving starting issues, now this, I'd say give yourself a break and go get a new one. I'd say your one to take good care of it and a decent new mower should last years of use giving you a break, so more time spent tinkering with other things.... or watching NHRA drags (which I'm doing right now... the lawn can wait), or grilling rib-eye's, or.....
lol

 

[doitmyself]

If you are going to trash the engine, why not use this engine to learn the flywheel removal procedure with minimal tools (assuming you don't have air tools or special flywheel tools).

Leave the engine mounted so you can lock the blade (be ingenius) in order to remove the nut. EDIT: LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE THE NUT OFF ON THE VID.

A carefully placed pry tool and a whack with a hammer will release most flywheels.

Most You Tube vids involve air tools. Here's one that shows the hammer technique:



If you don't have torque specs., pre mark the nut/flywheel so you can at least get it close upon reinstallation.

A seal should not cost much....maybe $5??

Be careful. Most of the engine is made of easily broken aluminum alloy parts (better to lock the blade vs. grabbing the flywheel vanes without a special tool).

 

[Rand]

loose head bolt(s)?

 

[stephen9666]

I wonder if people will offer you more helpful comments then you offered in the Shop Vac thread?

You'd better just cash it in and buy a new one. I don't want to have to walk you though using the flywheel puller.

In reality, I've considered the HF engine swap in the past. It may be easier on a simpler mower where it just drives the blade and a really simple drive mechanism. With a blade brake clutch and everything, hooking it up could be more difficult, but I'm not familiar with your model in particular.

I guess the question is how long do you want to go without a mower (or using a cheap CL mower, assuming you don't already have another) while you work on this mower?

 

[Eddie]

Go to Advanced Auto and borrow a puller

 

[cb_13]

I agree with doitmyself. I have on many occasions used a pry bar on each side and have an assistant operate the hammer to remove small engine flywheels. Nothing to lose at this point if you mess it up anyway.

 

[Warstud]

Is this a Chonda motor? If so how long have you had it?

 

[Vikas]

Yes, this is the same mower which has been giving me trouble for last few years. I have managed to keep it running for over 13 years.

Assuming I get my hands on a puller (borrow it), is the wooddruf key going to get me? I have no experience with any of this stuff. I put my C3 impact wrench on the bolt and out it came!

Even this weekend, I kept on hosing the mower with the garden hose and cleaned the oil few times and completed the mowing. I know it has lots of issues but it is also a challenge to get it work.

The Honda GXV140 "should" be identical on this blade brake clutch mower as opposed to standard mower. I have official maintenance book. I will scan the pages and post it here. You guys might be able to offer more tips.

 

[Vikas]

I am suspecting it is the massive blow-by which is causing it to leak this much oil. I do know that if I remove the oil dipstick while the engine is running, I get sprayed with the oil. Interestingly, there is a vent/breather tube coming in to the air cleaner (not sure where it originates) but I don't see that dripping oil.

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
I am suspecting it is the massive blow-by which is causing it to leak this much oil. I do know that if I remove the oil dipstick while the engine is running, I get sprayed with the oil. Interestingly, there is a vent/breather tube coming in to the air cleaner (not sure where it originates) but I don't see that dripping oil.

All small engines will do same, which is why there is a warning against doing so...

If it has excessive blowby there will be oil in the crankcase breather that attaches to the carb...

 

[Vikas]

I scanned the pages from the service manual and posted @ http://imgur.com/a/rOMqN

The last page is from the Predator manual and gives the bolt layout. The rest of the pages is from the Honda lawnmower service manual.

I am hoping (can somebody confirm) that the Predator Chonda is bolt compatible with Honda GXV140 engine? Is the crankshaft end identical and has the same length? I know lot of people have used that engine, so it should easily bolt in but I do not know how much room is there on the end of the crankshaft where the blade holder bolts on. I have tried going through the diagrams.

Here are the pages:-

 

[WMSmotorhead]

One of my neighbors had one of those.... I hated that mower. If you didn't wait 2-3 mins for the engine to warm up, It would stall when you engaged the blade.

 

[bubbatime]

Doesn't that engine have a PTO drive shaft that drives the hydrostatic transmission? If so, any repower with a chonda will essentially make that mower a push mower and not a self propelled mower.

 

[Vikas]

That is what I am afraid of. Is the drive shaft longer on my original mower? The blade brake clutch and the pulley to drive the transmission has to fit on the drive shaft. The 3rd page from the bottom shows A1 and A2 types.

 

[Hokiefyd]

You're talking two different things here (pulley and driveshaft). From the service manual photos, it appears that there is a pulley on the crankshaft with a belt back to the transmission. Any re-power with a similarly-sized and -placed pulley on the crankshaft should work.

Some Honda GXV engines (or maybe all) had a gear-driven PTO, which was attached to a propeller shaft that went to the transmission. Your GXV may have the PTO, but not the propeller shaft. Or it may not have the PTO at all. Or it may have a PTO and propeller shaft, and the belt shown in the service manual is not applicable to your mower.

I'll bet yours uses a belt.

Here is my HR215SXA. You can see the black convolute plastic "bellows" that covers the propeller shaft that runs from the rear of the engine back to the transmission area.

 

[Vikas]

But the question I have is that is the length of the shaft different for the two applications? That page has A1 and A2 variants and I believe the length is different. 60mm vs 80mm

 

[TFB1]

Any mower that has the mechanics to disconnect the blade is going to have a oversize flywheel on the engine so it will be easy to crank... Most replacement engines are going to be setup for direct drive so will not have the needed "heft" in the flywheel(blade provides needed inertia)...

If the drive pulley is held in place with a set screw, length of the crank isn't important, just cut off what isn't needed if too long... Of course that will kill any chance it could be used on the average mower...

 

[Vikas]

But what if it is too short? How in the world would I be able to extend it?

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
But what if it is too short? How in the world would I be able to extend it?

Can't discuss this stuff at BITOG......pre-honeymoon concerns!

You may have to go to the store and take some careful measurements.....on the engine, that is.