Looking for a high Noack oil, if this makes any sense here.

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Would it help to use the highest, as in the worse, test result Noack oil to mitigated oil dilution in a DI engine? What I'm thinking is that it will tend to thicken up.

In this example, a Honda 1.5L DI (not turbo). The recommendation of course is 0W-20. I am using M1 ESP 0W-30 now.

A little bit of searching here says in a DI engine we want a low Noack rated oil because of intake valve contamination, so there's that tidbit of information.
 
I read somewhere, maybe on FB university, that back in the day an oil's viscosity was a balance between thinning from shear and thickening from evaporative loses.
If really what you want is a thin XW30, maybe an FA-4/SN+ in either 5W30 or 10W30, is the engine oil for your car.
 
If you want thicker oil, why not just use thicker oil?

While the lowest viscosity fractions of the oil evaporate the easiest, and the remainder of the oil would be of higher viscosity, nothing in the fuel is even close to oil viscosity. So as long as there's fuel in the oil, viscosity will be lower than without.

I'm not so sure Noack, or evaporation is the cause of intake valve contamination. That is, there's research that shows contamination continues even if the PCV isn't routed back to the intake.
 
If you want thicker oil, why not just use thicker oil?

While the lowest viscosity fractions of the oil evaporate the easiest, and the remainder of the oil would be of higher viscosity, nothing in the fuel is even close to oil viscosity. So as long as there's fuel in the oil, viscosity will be lower than without.

I'm not so sure Noack, or evaporation is the cause of intake valve contamination. That is, there's research that shows contamination continues even if the PCV isn't routed back to the intake.
This.
 
Would it help to use the highest, as in the worse, test result Noack oil to mitigated oil dilution in a DI engine? What I'm thinking is that it will tend to thicken up.

In this example, a Honda 1.5L DI (not turbo). The recommendation of course is 0W-20. I am using M1 ESP 0W-30 now.

A little bit of searching here says in a DI engine we want a low Noack rated oil because of intake valve contamination, so there's that tidbit of information.
You actually want a oil with a low NOACK. For obvious reasons; there are reasons why a high NOACK oil is not ideal
 
I'm not so sure Noack, or evaporation is the cause of intake valve contamination. That is, there's research that shows contamination continues even if the PCV isn't routed back to the intake.
On a GDI engine, if there was no PVC vapors going into the intake and only pure air, there wouldn't be anything to contaminate the intake valves.

On engines that spray fuel on the hot intake valves, the fuel can also leave deposits if the fuel is subpar. That along with clogged injectors use to be a big issue when port injected gas engines started coming out in the early 80s.
 
Oil should stay in the oil pan.

I would think that you'd want pressurized motor oil, going through all the oil passages and maybe some splash lubrication on the upper end ? going through all channels it is supposed to, not putting the oil pump in bypass, while the engine is running etc! As thick as necessary, but as thin as possible, perhaps?

Maybe when the car is OFF you'd want it in the pan, no leaks, some left behind on the internals, sure.
 
I would think that you'd want pressurized motor oil, going through all the oil passages and maybe some splash lubrication on the upper end ? going through all channels it is supposed to, not putting the oil pump in bypass, while the engine is running etc! As thick as necessary, but as thin as possible, perhaps?
Pretty hard to make an oil pump hit pressure relief when the oil is at operating temperature. And even if the pump does go into relief with hot oil, the pump output volume should still be more than adequate if it was sized correctly.

"Thick enough to ensure adequate MOFT headroom, not thin enough to put MOFT on the ragged edge". 😄

Maybe when the car is OFF you'd want it in the pan, no leaks, some left behind on the internals, sure.
Oil is always in the pan, or else the oil pump pickup would be sucking air.
 
I would think that you'd want pressurized motor oil, going through all the oil passages and maybe some splash lubrication on the upper end ? going through all channels it is supposed to, not putting the oil pump in bypass, while the engine is running etc! As thick as necessary, but as thin as possible, perhaps?

Maybe when the car is OFF you'd want it in the pan, no leaks, some left behind on the internals, sure.
Pan, oiling circuit, etc. Not in PCV, exhaust, or combustion chamber.
 
This is like becoming an alcoholic on the off chance it might reduce the formation of kidney stones :oops:

No, you don't want high Noack, if you are concerned about fuel dilution reducing viscosity, start with a heavier oil.
 
How much fuel dilution are you seeing?
I have no way to quantify it, such as via UOA, so no facts here, but there does not seem to be a unusually high level of stench of gas in the oil and the level I may have sloppily overfilled when I hurriedly did the oc about 1500 miles ago, so I bungled that part. I'm sure there is some dilution going on and it is a hair high on the stick.
 
I have no way to quantify it, such as via UOA, so no facts here, but there does not seem to be a unusually high level of stench of gas in the oil and the level I may have sloppily overfilled when I hurriedly did the oc about 1500 miles ago, so I bungled that part. I'm sure there is some dilution going on and it is a hair high on the stick.
Perhaps start by getting a UOA from a lab that does GC? (so, not Blackstone).
 
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