Long-term HDEO use in an oil burner?

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My 2009 Scion has the troublesome 2az-fe engine. A piston soak plus a couple of flushes have greatly Improved oil consumption from a quart in <300 miles to now >1000 using a CK-4/SN rated 5w-40 HDEO. I’m very pleased with the reduced consumption and am hopeful that using the HDEO will result in even more cleaning of the oil control rings and drain holes.

My question is about long-term use of a 5w-40 HDEO in an engine that’s supposed to us a 0w-20 PCMO. The engine has 154k and the car is a spare/beater, so the world won’t end if it dies, but obviously I would prefer that it not. What’s better for a car in the long term: using the oil grade it specifies or using one that helps significantly reduce consumption? My gut tells me they wouldn’t give an oil an S rating unless it was OK for extended use. Right?
 
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In oils with higher Zinc, you may be replacing the CAT due to the oil blowing past the low friction rings. But best of luck/success to you. (y)
if it's burning oil the OP is likely destined for a CAT regardless of what oil gets used. I had to do a CAT on our 2006 Chrysler T&C and it only ever saw Mobil 1 5w20 or 5w30 PCMO.

just my $0.02
 
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My question is about long-term use of a 5w-40 HDEO in an engine that’s supposed to us a 0w-20 PCMO. The engine has 154k and the car is a spare/beater, so the world won’t end if it dies, but obviously I would prefer that it not. What’s better for a car in the long term: using the oil grade it specifies or using one that helps significantly reduce consumption? My gut tells me they wouldn’t give an oil an S rating unless it was OK for extended use. Right?
Yeah the grade isn’t going to make a difference, it’s the resistance to ring sticking and deposit control that might.
 
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The HDEO can be run for long term use as long as you use one with the appropriate winter rating.
HDEO will not remove varnish or coking. It will however, be quite effective at removing sludge due to the high TBN.
 
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To combat oil consumption, I would be more inclined to run a Euro 0w40 / 5w40 in this engine. They are super stout with (relatively) good cleaning properties, and the high zinc of HDEO is totally unnecessary in this engine.
 
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the high zinc of HDEO is totally unnecessary in this engine.
Well, Delvac 1300, Delo XLE, and Delo SDE don't have high Zinc/Phos in their CK-4 formulations. These are the only ones I'm aware of like this, though.
To combat oil consumption, I would be more inclined to run a Euro 0w40 / 5w40 in this engine.
I hope he picks Mobil 1 FS 0w-40 or Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP, as they are the only Euro lubes that I know of that can solvate varnish/coking due to the small polyol ester addition. He might be able to use another Mobil 1 product that has alkylated naphthalenes for solvating the varnish/coke. Not sure which Mobil 1 product (line and grade) out there has the most AN? :unsure:

He could also just supplement a quart of HPL 30 Engine Cleaner for a handful of Intervals....
 

FCD

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I'd be a little iffy about running a presumably high saps HDEO in an engine that burns oil, in theory it could lead to more deposits and poisoning the cat.
Although then again, i did just that in my old Peugeot 106, and it didn't poison the cat and passed emissions just fine every year despite going through about 1 qt. every 2000 miles or so.
 
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To combat oil consumption, I would be more inclined to run a Euro 0w40 / 5w40 in this engine. They are super stout with (relatively) good cleaning properties, and the high zinc of HDEO is totally unnecessary in this engine.
Tried that it didn’t do squat in my 09’ Camrys 2AZ-FE ENGINE

Did piston soak recently with b12. Then put some SM DELO 10w30 dad gave me 7 gallon jugs of. So far the oil is still at correct mark on dipstick. Kinda sooty black looking but it registers
 

Elkins45

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Tried that it didn’t do squat in my 09’ Camrys 2AZ-FE ENGINE

Did piston soak recently with b12. Then put some SM DELO 10w30 dad gave me 7 gallon jugs of. So far the oil is still at correct mark on dipstick. Kinda sooty black looking but it registers
The B12 piston soak was the thing that really turned mine around, but I think it’s continuing to improve with every oil change as the HDEO slowly cleans up the rings.
 

Highboy

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The B12 piston soak was the thing that really turned mine around, but I think it’s continuing to improve with every oil change as the HDEO slowly cleans up the rings.
I’m in the process of doing the B12 piston soak on my 08 Scion tC. How long did you soak for and did you do any thing else? Mine is using the same amount 300 miles per quart.
 
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I would not be at all concerned about the higher viscosity, it won't be a problem and others do it with great success. There are a number of good oils to try. I'd pick a synthetic, and maybe even give T6 15W-40 a shot (if you are looking for something relatively inexpensive, synthetic and available a WalMart)

Worth considering:

Mobil 1 5W-40 TDT/Delvac 1
Mobil 1 10W-40 HM
Mobil 1 10W-40 Motorcycle
Rotella T6 5W-40
Rotella T6 15W-40
 
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I have a 2010 Honda with a K series 2.4L. A real oil burner as well. Known issue, stuck rings. I ran Rotella T6 5-40 and was burning a quart in 500 miles.

I'm not a big believer is wonder products, but another mechanic told me he has an LS 4.8L which burned oil too, he used Sea Foam to fog it and in the oil which slowed it down. I though what is there to loose?

I ran the engine up to temp, fogged it with SF aerosol fogging oil, and removed the plugs. I put 100cc in each cyl after rolling the engine so all 4 pistons were mid stroke. I let it sit for several days. The plugs told me the #2 was the problem child.

After 5 or 6 days, I looked into the plug holes and all the SF was gone. The pulled the dipstick and it was higher due to SF in crancase. I put new plugs in it, started it and ran it at 2000 RPM after warmup.

Once it was hot, I changed the oil and put super tech 5-30 in it. I didn't want to spend the $$ on Rotella with it disappearing so fast.

Much to my surprise the car now consumes a quart in about 3000 miles. It has 148K on the clock now.

I've continued to run the ST oil, and have never used the SF again. That was 2 years ago. I may do it again at the end of an oil change. I'm a believer after that.

Don't know if it's the oil or the SF.

I've always changed get the oil at 5k since I bought it in 2012 woth 60k on it.
 
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I have a 2010 Honda with a K series 2.4L. A real oil burner as well. Known issue, stuck rings. I ran Rotella T6 5-40 and was burning a quart in 500 miles.

I'm not a big believer is wonder products, but another mechanic told me he has an LS 4.8L which burned oil too, he used Sea Foam to fog it and in the oil which slowed it down. I though what is there to loose?

I ran the engine up to temp, fogged it with SF aerosol fogging oil, and removed the plugs. I put 100cc in each cyl after rolling the engine so all 4 pistons were mid stroke. I let it sit for several days. The plugs told me the #2 was the problem child.

After 5 or 6 days, I looked into the plug holes and all the SF was gone. The pulled the dipstick and it was higher due to SF in crancase. I put new plugs in it, started it and ran it at 2000 RPM after warmup.

Once it was hot, I changed the oil and put super tech 5-30 in it. I didn't want to spend the $$ on Rotella with it disappearing so fast.

Much to my surprise the car now consumes a quart in about 3000 miles. It has 148K on the clock now.

I've continued to run the ST oil, and have never used the SF again. That was 2 years ago. I may do it again at the end of an oil change. I'm a believer after that.

Don't know if it's the oil or the SF.

I've always changed get the oil at 5k since I bought it in 2012 woth 60k on it.

I'd be tempted to do the oil change first, maybe with a 40 weight, do the Seafoam soak but leave it in the oil for the OCI once it's run into the sump.

I've had some luck with Seafoam despite it only being a 'basic' product.
 
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