I found some Rotella 10w-30, should I use it or not?

[haley10]

It should be fine.

I think on the Crown Vic with Summer approaching, that the 15W-40 might reduce your consumption. I don't think it's too thick in this weather, with your mileage. It's also SL rated.

I don't like the HDEO's in an oil burner, unless they reduce consumption and I'm not sure the 10-30 will, but it might. I wouldn't hesitate to use the 40wt. right now.

 

[Stab]

The reason I am considering going to the HDEO is because the Infiniti seems to be getting some varnish and I was going to use it in the vic with Auto rx for a little extra cleaning as well as all the other benefits I have read about the HDEO's..

The Vic has had 3-4K mile changes since new mostly with GTX but with a few other brands here and there but mostly GTX 10w-30. The Vic is stone cold reliable but has started a little puff of smoke on start up the last few thousand miles. The Vic has been very well maintained and has heavy deposits/sludge in the valve train area. The valve seals are going bad but it is a miracle they have lasted this long because this year of vic had a problem with valve seals going bad. I am doing Auto rx right now in the vic and drain the first rinse this week. I mostly got the HDEO to run the auto rx cycle. The auto rx seems to have done nothing to this point to remove any of the sludge or deposits. The only thing it has done for sure is give the motor a off and on rattle in the bottom end of the motor. I have read this may go away and I am staying the course with the auto rx. I start the second cleaning phase in a few days.

I am going to try some of the Rotella 10w-30 for the next 3 or 4 OCI in the Infiniti but I am still not sure about the vic. Is HDEO a good match with auto rx?

[ May 23, 2004, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: Stab ]

 

[TC]

Assuming your Ford and Infiniti simply required SH and SJ oils respectively per their manuals, then as I'm sure you're aware, you're significantly exceeding those performance requirements with your Rotella SL. Although we often refer to these as "diesel" oils, the label clarifies that it's a "mixed fleet" oil. So it's clearly formulated for gasoline engines, it meets the latest API specs, and I assume it's the correct weight per your manuals. Per the Shell spec sheets, both 10w-30 and 15w-40 Rotella weights have a high TBN of 11.5, meaning the same superior long-term detergent/dispersant performance. The ILSAC starburst combines both API performance specs and a modest fuel economy savings requirement; you already have the former, and I personally wouldn't worry about the latter. Don't know about the AutoRX question, but I'd simply defer to the RX bottle. This link briefly describes the API/ILSAC cert's... http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp In short, you made an excellent choice for both rides!

[ May 23, 2004, 10:32 PM: Message edited by: TC ]

 

[Stab]

I am not a blind follower of what the manual states BUT I will quote directly from the Infiniti owner's manual:

"It is essential to choose the correct quality, and viscosity oil to ensure satisfactory engine life and performance. INFINITI recommends the use of a low friction oil (energy conserverving oil) in order to improve fuel economy and conserve energy. Oils which do not have the specified quality label should not be used as they could cause engine damage.

Only those engine oils with the American Petroleum Institute (API) certification on the front of the container should be used"

So the manual clearly states to use a oil with the starburst.

However, It also says in the manual:
"An oil with a single designation SG or SH, or in combination with other categories (For example, SG/CC or SG/CD) may also be used if one with the API certification mark cannot be found. An ILSAC grade GF-II oil can also be used"

So it looks like even the Infiniti/Nissan brass have allowed the use of non-starburst oil in this car. I guess I can go about this in the Infiniti with the blessing of the manual.

 

[Stab]

I was able to get my hands on 8 gallons (1 gallon jugs) of Shell Rotella 10w-30. I have been interested in the HDEO's since I started reading BITOG but I feel that the 15-40's are too thick for my application.

Both of my cars are OHC engines. One is a 94 Ford Crown Vic (244K miles) and the other a 99 Infiniti G20 (78K miles). Both cars have used various brands of dino 10w-30 since new. The vic does burn about a quart every 1500 miles.

Will the HDEO 10w-30 have the same benefits of the 15-40? Any possible harm that I can do to either engine?

Really I am just asking because there is very little talk about the HDEO 10w-30 because they are so hard to find.

Should I just use this and not worry about it?

I am kind of scared of new things when it comes to oil.

Thanks

Just wanted to add that the oil is SL rated but not "Energy conserving". It has the donut but does NOT have the starburst. I just added this info because I saw another post about old SJ Rotella. For the record the Rotella 10w-30 I bought is SL.

[ May 23, 2004, 12:38 PM: Message edited by: Stab ]

 

[Brett Miller]

I would go for it. It will give you excellent protection.

 

[TC]

This link shows both icons -- doughnut and starburst: http://www.citgo.com/Products/LubesOils/CITGOBrand/PassengerCar/EngineOilClassification.jsp

While the API "doughnut" is always required -- this confirms the quality and performance spec, such as SH -- the ILSAC "starburst" is really a nod to CAFE, combining the API spec with a fuel economy spec. Using, or not using, a starburst oil won't have any direct affect on oil performance or engine wear, so long as the doughnut is there. Theoretically the starburst will increase fuel economy in the very low single digits, at least over fleet averages. My 2002 Mopar manual REQUIRES an ILSAC or Energy Conserving oil. Although I personally agree with EC oils, this seems an unreasonable requirement since it has nothing to do with oil performance, engine wear, or warranty-related issues. It basically forces a fuel economy requirement on the owner -- I'd think this is solely my business, not Chrysler's.

Ignoring any manuals or warranty requirements, rest assured if you ignore the starburst and EC icons, and went strictly by a current-spec'd doughnut, you'll be getting the best engine protection you can get, with no likely advantages in same by going ILSAC, starburst, or EC. (Actually, the Euro ACEA specs are even higher than API, but that's another story...)