2 cycle for an oil burner?

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Yes, I know it’s a stupid question but the premise does intrigue me so feel free to join me in speculation.

The question is based on my recent experience buying a used Scion with the problematic 2az-fe engine that is prone to severe oil consumption due to badly designed oil control rings and piston. My particular specimen was burning a quart at less than 300 miles. A prolonged piston soak has improved that about 3X, but conversations about issues with carbon buildup and cat clogging led me to think about the possibility of using two cycle oil in an engine with a severe consumption problem. Since two stroke oil is designed to be burned up cleanly I wonder if it might prolong the life of the cat and slow the rate of carbon buildup.

Mind you this isn’t something I would even consider at the current burn rate, but some people I’ve talked to are burning a quart every 100 miles. I wonder at that point if it wouldn’t be worth a try to fill the sump with two cycle oil?

Why is or isn’t this a terrible idea?
 
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You should get some Yamaha Ring Free and mix it in the gas as yamaha recommends at 1 oz per 10 gallons and let us all know if it decreases consumption. Yamaha claims its supposed to keep the rings "free" after all.... Techron has has a marine version as well that's just as concentrated as the yamaha ring free which may be cheaper.

PS running two stroke oil is a terrible idea, its designed to be burned immediately and not designed to sit in an oil sump of a 4 stroke.
 
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I'd rather just use an oil that doesn't get as burned up as much like a 10w-40 or 20w-50 that is also lower saps instead of 15w-40 or 15w-50 and give the catalytic converter a once in a while treatment of CRC emission cleaner depending on the burn rate with that thicker oil.
 

Elkins45

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You should get some Yamaha Ring Free and mix it in the gas as yamaha recommends at 1 oz per 10 gallons and let us all know if it decreases consumption. Yamaha claims its supposed to keep the rings "free" after all.... Techron has has a marine version as well that's just as concentrated as the yamaha ring free which may be cheaper.

PS running two stroke oil is a terrible idea, its designed to be burned immediately and not designed to sit in an oil sump of a 4 stroke.
I’ve already used four tankfuls of Ring Free immediately following the piston soak. If figure it’s already done what it can do. I’m saving the rest of the bottle for my boat. I paid $25 for a 12 oz bottle of the stuff and I’m starting to think it might not have been worth it.
 
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When I was in high school I had a Chevy Monza that burned 1qt of oil every 50 miles or so.
So I bought a case of K-Mart brand 20w-50 and started adding it, I never checked the oil, just added every 50 miles or so.
It stopped burning oil, I only figured it out after the oil started coming out of the dipstick tube because it was overfull.

Switch to a 20w-50 and keep on keeping on.
 
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@MolaKule posted a breakdown of 2 Stroke additives, much less than what you find in 4 Cycle oils, and a fairly low TBN to boot.

Probably not a great idea.
 
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I’ve already used four tankfuls of Ring Free immediately following the piston soak. If figure it’s already done what it can do. I’m saving the rest of the bottle for my boat. I paid $25 for a 12 oz bottle of the stuff and I’m starting to think it might not have been worth it.
Dang, I was hoping it would help, but then again a quart every 300 miles probably means all the oil control rings are badly coked, stuck, and drain back holes completely blocked. Probably wont have much luck without manually manipulating the ring packs and cleaning them.
 

Elkins45

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Dang, I was hoping it would help, but then again a quart every 300 miles probably means all the oil control rings are badly coked, stuck, and drain back holes completely blocked. Probably wont have much luck without manually manipulating the ring packs and cleaning them.
A piston soak improved it from 300 to 900, so I'm a long way from desperation measures. The Ring Free might have been part of that improvement too, but there's no way to really know which changes made the biggest impact. There's no reason to believe a second soak might help, but my next step is the BG EPR and MOA treatments.
 
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The current rate of quart in 900 miles is borderline okay. Just watch your oil level and don't let it run out of oil.

Assuming you're using a XW-20 oil, you could try a 0W or 5W-30 or in summer a 10W-30 or even an XW-40. A modest improvement would put you into the acceptable range.
 
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Berryman ChemDip melts carbon. Do a piston soak with that, but don't leave it in for more than 3-4hrs. It may be ok for longer, but it also could take the coating off of the piston skirts (assuming the coating is still present). 3-4hrs is a safe time period though. Rotate pistons by hand every 30 mins, to let ChemDip creep into everything and give it the best fighting chance. Top off pistons with more ChemDip as necessary, as some will seep into the crankcase. Once done - drop a few ounces of motor oil or ATF in the cylinders to get the oil film on the walls, and change oil before starting the engine.


When it comes to two cycle oil - never add it to the crankcase. You can however add it to your fuel tank in small doses. Some members here have good results (improved MPG, cleaner combustion chamber, smoother engine operation, potentially longer fuel pump life) from 640:1 ratio, which works out to 1oz of TCW-3 Two Cycle oil for every 5 gallons of fuel in the tank.
 
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You could try using some TCW3 oil mixed at a 640:1 ratio in your gas. It will probably help in the cleaning process of the combustion chambers, rings and valves. Because of the added lubricity, the theory is that it can provide better ring seal and slow down oil consumption.

I can't find it but a bitog member posted a picture of the top of a piston in a engine in which he continuously used a 640:1 or 500:1 dose of TCW3 2 cycle oil for many years and it was like new, zero carbon buildup.

I have been experimenting with it in 3 cars for a month and the observation so far is that is boossts MPG, help with cold starts and they all run a little smoother. I'm about to remove the plugs and take a look at the combustion chambers in about 5000 km to see what it looks like.

Here's a link to a 57 page thread about this: https://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-oil-91206/
 
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Berryman ChemDip melts carbon. Do a piston soak with that, but don't leave it in for more than 3-4hrs. It may be ok for longer, but it also could take the coating off of the piston skirts (assuming the coating is still present). 3-4hrs is a safe time period though. Rotate pistons by hand every 30 mins, to let ChemDip creep into everything and give it the best fighting chance. Top off pistons with more ChemDip as necessary, as some will seep into the crankcase. Once done - drop a few ounces of motor oil or ATF in the cylinders to get the oil film on the walls, and change oil before starting the engine.


When it comes to two cycle oil - never add it to the crankcase. You can however add it to your fuel tank in small doses. Some members here have good results (improved MPG, cleaner combustion chamber, smoother engine operation, potentially longer fuel pump life) from 640:1 ratio, which works out to 1oz of TCW-3 Two Cycle oil for every 5 gallons of fuel in the tank.
We're connected. 😄
 

Elkins45

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The current rate of quart in 900 miles is borderline okay. Just watch your oil level and don't let it run out of oil.

Assuming you're using a XW-20 oil, you could try a 0W or 5W-30 or in summer a 10W-30 or even an XW-40. A modest improvement would put you into the acceptable range.
The current quart per 900 miles is with synthetic 10w-30. Next change will be to a 5w-40.
 
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NO. 2 stroke oil is made typically from high-volatility napthenic base stock and has a low flashpoint. ( <70degC )
And it isnt additised for sump lubrication
 
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Yes, I know it’s a stupid question but the premise does intrigue me so feel free to join me in speculation.

The question is based on my recent experience buying a used Scion with the problematic 2az-fe engine that is prone to severe oil consumption due to badly designed oil control rings and piston. My particular specimen was burning a quart at less than 300 miles. A prolonged piston soak has improved that about 3X, but conversations about issues with carbon buildup and cat clogging led me to think about the possibility of using two cycle oil in an engine with a severe consumption problem. Since two stroke oil is designed to be burned up cleanly I wonder if it might prolong the life of the cat and slow the rate of carbon buildup.

Mind you this isn’t something I would even consider at the current burn rate, but some people I’ve talked to are burning a quart every 100 miles. I wonder at that point if it wouldn’t be worth a try to fill the sump with two cycle oil?

Why is or isn’t this a terrible idea?
Two stroke oil will make short work of your engine. Experiment with different 4 cycle oils till you find one that slows it down. Maybe motorcycle oils or diesel 5w-40.

Also if you have remove the spark plugs, mix ATF, acetone, and seafoam into a container and continue to keep soaking the pistons over and over again.

I have revived very nasty engines this way.. It must soak thru the piston rings down far enough to reach the oil control ring.
 
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NO. 2 stroke oil is made typically from high-volatility napthenic base stock and has a low flashpoint. ( <70degC )
And it isnt additised for sump lubrication

I didn't get the impression that OP was talking about adding the 2 cycle oil to the sump, I assumed he was talking about adding it to the fuel, but I could be wrong.

I agree wholeheartedly - never put 2 cycle oil in the sump. A far as adding it to the fuel, the only thing that gives me pause is what that might do to the catalytic converter and/or O2 sensor. I don't know it's a problem, but I don't know it's not.

If you mixed it as dilute as someone above mentioned (640:1) I have trouble believing it would cause an issue.
 
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I didn't get the impression that OP was talking about adding the 2 cycle oil to the sump, I assumed he was talking about adding it to the fuel, but I could be wrong.

I agree wholeheartedly - never put 2 cycle oil in the sump. A far as adding it to the fuel, the only thing that gives me pause is what that might do to the catalytic converter and/or O2 sensor. I don't know it's a problem, but I don't know it's not.

If you mixed it as dilute as someone above mentioned (640:1) I have trouble believing it would cause an issue.
Op states “add to sump” in the second to last sentence.
 
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