Light Switch wiring help

Joined
Apr 20, 2021
Messages
1,441
Location
PA & CMC, NJ
Any help appreciated here.
The contractor finished the siding job. He left the outdoor deck lights off of one side. I want to reconnect. It's two wall lights on each end of the deck both controlled by a single pole switch inside and directly below the mounting box in the picture.
One of the wires coming out has black tape as you can see. I'm thinking that's a white wire carrying current.
My question. ..do I wire nut the three that are not stripped together with a white jumper and than the white jumper and black with exposed stripped lead are my lamp connection?

PXL_20250510_194850090.webp
 
Any help appreciated here.
The contractor finished the siding job. He left the outdoor deck lights off of one side. I want to reconnect. It's two wall lights on each end of the deck both controlled by a single pole switch inside and directly below the mounting box in the picture.
One of the wires coming out has black tape as you can see. I'm thinking that's a white wire carrying current.
My question. ..do I wire nut the three that are not stripped together with a white jumper and than the white jumper and black with exposed stripped lead are my lamp connection?

View attachment 278473
Honestly meter it out. Not going to suggest anything based on conductor colors
 
Last edited:
you should use a meter as pablo mentioned can't say what the installer done from day one. no ground? start with one meter lead on the white and the other to each black with the switch on... you should get your 120v's
 
It would seem to me like you found the "master" outdoor light with a pair of wires coming from the switch and a pair going off to the "slave" light. It's intended that you hook up both blacks to one screw and both whites to the other one. But meter it out.
 
Any help appreciated here.
The contractor finished the siding job. He left the outdoor deck lights off of one side. I want to reconnect. It's two wall lights on each end of the deck both controlled by a single pole switch inside and directly below the mounting box in the picture.
One of the wires coming out has black tape as you can see. I'm thinking that's a white wire carrying current.
My question. ..do I wire nut the three that are not stripped together with a white jumper and than the white jumper and black with exposed stripped lead are my lamp connection?

View attachment 278473
Go to your local hardware store and get an inexpensive current tester. I picked up one from Home Depot. It'll tell you if and which wires have power to them. It's a useful tool to have, and beats getting zapped.
 
Looks like this has already been solved, but looks like an old switch loop. Tape the white wire black on one line for a switch leg, basically just breaking the hot. This is how my house built in '65 was wired. No longer code as they now require the neutral in the switch box. It's grandfathered in, but the new ceiling fixtures I've installed (no ceiling fixtures in a couple rooms, just a a switched outlet for a table lamp) I had to go with current code.
 
Looks like this has already been solved, but looks like an old switch loop. Tape the white wire black on one line for a switch leg, basically just breaking the hot. This is how my house built in '65 was wired. No longer code as they now require the neutral in the switch box. It's grandfathered in, but the new ceiling fixtures I've installed (no ceiling fixtures in a couple rooms, just a a switched outlet for a table lamp) I had to go with current code.
Some of those old homes with knob and tube wiring they switched the neutral 🤯
 
I had a house that was built in the 20's that was retrofitted with electricity and plumbing in the early 40's. I am all well too aware of the shenanigans they did back then. 120v tingles a little bit. Still prefer it over the jolt of 277v :oops:
I have had the joyous moment of getting to know 120. I haven't met anything higher and hopefully never will. my new job position is intimidating working around 480 most the day.
 
Looks like this has already been solved, but looks like an old switch loop. Tape the white wire black on one line for a switch leg, basically just breaking the hot. This is how my house built in '65 was wired. No longer code as they now require the neutral in the switch box. It's grandfathered in, but the new ceiling fixtures I've installed (no ceiling fixtures in a couple rooms, just a a switched outlet for a table lamp) I had to go with current code.
Place was built in 1979 buts was resided probably 25 years ago and we just had it done again.
 
I have had the joyous moment of getting to know 120. I haven't met anything higher and hopefully never will. my new job position is intimidating working around 480 most the day.
I met up with him again this AM. Reinstalling the same kind of outdoor light right around the corner from the original post situation. It was a two switch controlling one light outside the door and at the top of the stairs. Before the siding contractor came there was an exterior light switch at the bottom of the stairs and the interior light switch inside the door at the top. Siding contractor must have bent the ears back on the switch and stuffed it inside the box and sided right over it. I didn't kill the breaker. I turned the switch off...or so I thought of is now up and on is down. I found out the hard way with a jolt.
 
Back
Top Bottom