Well, as luck would have it, my wife is getting laid off in about a month and has decided to go back to school to become a nurse. Looking at about 1.5 years of schooling on an accelerated program. I think she'll get some sort of unemployment and hopefully they will also help out with tuition and books. However, we'll be living off on one paycheck, mine, for a while and the also means that I probably won't be taking the boat out next summer. With that said, I'm getting ready to winterize it and was wondering what would ya'll put in the crankcase for a two summer sit? I know it will be a HDEO, but what? I'm pretty familiar with PCMO's and not really educated very well on diesel oils. I'm open to suggestions. It's a 3.0 Mercruiser. Once I get the oil changed I'm going to let it run for a little and fog the be----- out of it. Pull the plugs and soak the cylinders and drain the fuel the best I can. Like I said, I'm interested in seeing what all ya'll would recommend.
leaving Pennz LL15W-40 but going to ???
- Thread starter Schmoe
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Schmoe, where you been. Have not seen you post in awhile. Anyway, I would use the Amsoil 15W40 Marine oil. It has a great additive package to prevent rust and corrosion.
I know, I'm rusty with the lastest happenings here on BITOG. Been busy with life changes, read first note above for one thing. Daughter is now almost 4 and just demands a lot of time. Also, "big brother" has decided to let me regain access to this web site.
I need something Walmart available.
I need something Walmart available.
I'd personally use Delo or Pennz LL, but regardless, for sure use a fuel stabilizer and fog the motor. Should be itching to fire up on the first crank in 2 years!
hey.
want to hear a good one, as i haven't been here in a while either,
let family members run my 19' boat and f'ing drain plug falls out of the pan. this was back in august, pulled the motor and had it rebuilt. They started losing power then shut the key off before the motor shut itself off. One rod bearing seized, and locked up the motor. Pulled the motor, pulled pan, could tell which rod bearing it was so as soon as i undid that the crank spun and the other 3 pistons went up and down no problem- this was running an engine without oil till it basically siezed. I could have probably just replaced that bearing, through some 15w40 in it and been running again.
so I have first hand experience and i can send you some nice pics of the 3.0L, it's a 2001 block, hecho en mexico.
you will never never never ever ever get over 40 psi +/- a few because the oil pump is a ( melling m-62 if my memory is correct) and when i put the new pump in and spun it up with a priming tool through the distributor, max pressure is 40-50 psi with a mechanical gauge- because the relief spring in the oil pump lets go at 40 psi. I also bench tested the old oil pump with an air hose and regulator for kicks, same deal.
so knowing that, you can gauge pressure vs rpm vs oil viscosity and know whether a heavier or lighter viscosity oil is what you might need. If you get 40 psi on your gauge at 1000 rpm, then you don't *need* a heavier oil, if it takes 2000+ rpm then probably a thicker oil might be beneficial.
I was running delvac1300 15w40, and continue to use it. For the price, it's the best oil. plus, it's a flat tappet motor so you want an oil with zddp or good AW adds for the cam/lifters so stick with a 15w40. The shop that did my motor even had a pamphlet from aera indicating the lack of antiwears (zddp) in API-sm oils and a strong recommendation to use 15w40 oil in flat tappet engines, specifically mobil delvac, chevron delo, rotella, and the shop i used swears by napa fleet 15w40.
want to hear a good one, as i haven't been here in a while either,
let family members run my 19' boat and f'ing drain plug falls out of the pan. this was back in august, pulled the motor and had it rebuilt. They started losing power then shut the key off before the motor shut itself off. One rod bearing seized, and locked up the motor. Pulled the motor, pulled pan, could tell which rod bearing it was so as soon as i undid that the crank spun and the other 3 pistons went up and down no problem- this was running an engine without oil till it basically siezed. I could have probably just replaced that bearing, through some 15w40 in it and been running again.
so I have first hand experience and i can send you some nice pics of the 3.0L, it's a 2001 block, hecho en mexico.
you will never never never ever ever get over 40 psi +/- a few because the oil pump is a ( melling m-62 if my memory is correct) and when i put the new pump in and spun it up with a priming tool through the distributor, max pressure is 40-50 psi with a mechanical gauge- because the relief spring in the oil pump lets go at 40 psi. I also bench tested the old oil pump with an air hose and regulator for kicks, same deal.
so knowing that, you can gauge pressure vs rpm vs oil viscosity and know whether a heavier or lighter viscosity oil is what you might need. If you get 40 psi on your gauge at 1000 rpm, then you don't *need* a heavier oil, if it takes 2000+ rpm then probably a thicker oil might be beneficial.
I was running delvac1300 15w40, and continue to use it. For the price, it's the best oil. plus, it's a flat tappet motor so you want an oil with zddp or good AW adds for the cam/lifters so stick with a 15w40. The shop that did my motor even had a pamphlet from aera indicating the lack of antiwears (zddp) in API-sm oils and a strong recommendation to use 15w40 oil in flat tappet engines, specifically mobil delvac, chevron delo, rotella, and the shop i used swears by napa fleet 15w40.
I would try Pennzoil 40w marine or Quicksilver 25w40 dino. Both have great storage add packs. Starbrite also makes an add-in stabilizer for crancase oil that works well.
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