Leaving mobil 1, any ideas on my next oil

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: kevco
I have never had a bad experince with mobil 1, just seems the iron levels have been a little high with them, I have noticed that some others on here have had a high iron level with it two.

Yes, that iron translates into direct engine wear, and that translates directly to sludge, and that translates directly to very short engine life with M1 oils. M1 oils are known for lots of sludge and short engine life. Welcome to the internet oil forum where the seat of truth lives.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: kevco
I have never had a bad experince with mobil 1, just seems the iron levels have been a little high with them, I have noticed that some others on here have had a high iron level with it two.


Without a particle count.... It really doesn't mean a whole lot.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...;gonew=1#UNREAD

You could have a "higher level" of smaller particles with M1, whilst having a lower number of the larger particles not picked up by a UOA. And the polar opposite with another oil.

Not saying this is necessarily the case, simply that UOA's are not a good method of monitoring engine "wear".

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: kevco
I have never had a bad experince with mobil 1, just seems the iron levels have been a little high with them, I have noticed that some others on here have had a high iron level with it two.

Yes, that iron translates into direct engine wear, and that translates directly to sludge, and that translates directly to very short engine life with M1 oils. M1 oils are known for lots of sludge and short engine life. Welcome to the internet oil forum where the seat of truth lives.


Ok! Now M1 oils in fact produce very clean and long lived engines with excellant extended OCIs. I do 10K with nearry a problem.

 

[kcfx4]

what happened to the day when an oci was a little more realistic than 12k+? when you used a oil because it "works" and stuck with it? seems like alot of ppl are just buying whatevers on sale at walmart. "oh i saw such and such oil on clearance at aap, never herd of it nor used it, but it was a "heck" of a deal". I read things like this daily on here. forgive me for being dumb, but whats the rationale in this thinking? enlighten me, please

 

[Bill in Utah]

More important to me is this guy has the same vehicle as I do (BTW check out all the UOAs I've done on my Toyota) SAME YEAR and only 33,000 miles.....

I did that plus more the first YEAR!

I'd recommend Pennzoil conventional, QS,Havoline DS, Mobil 5000 or GTX for the 5k OCI. I personally do 7-8k OCIs with those oils and going strong with 172k on the clock.

Take care, bill

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
what happened to the day when an oci was a little more realistic than 12k+? when you used a oil because it "works" and stuck with it? seems like alot of ppl are just buying whatevers on sale at walmart. "oh i saw such and such oil on clearance at aap, never herd of it nor used it, but it was a "heck" of a deal". I read things like this daily on here. forgive me for being dumb, but whats the rationale in this thinking? enlighten me, please


The bottom line is for most people and OCIs it really does not matter what type or brand of oil you run. Just follow the manual for what to run and OCI and you'll be fine.

Millions PROVE it!

Bill

 

[kcfx4]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
More important to me is this guy has the same vehicle as I do (BTW check out all the UOAs I've done on my Toyota) SAME YEAR and only 33,000 miles.....

I did that plus more the first YEAR!

I'd recommend Pennzoil conventional, QS,Havoline DS, Mobil 5000 or GTX for the 5k OCI. I personally do 7-8k OCIs with those oils and going strong with 172k on the clock.

Take care, bill

add valvoline, motorcraft, and supertech to that list, and i believe you would cover nearly every brand/flavor at w/m

 

[kcfx4]

Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
what happened to the day when an oci was a little more realistic than 12k+? when you used a oil because it "works" and stuck with it? seems like alot of ppl are just buying whatevers on sale at walmart. "oh i saw such and such oil on clearance at aap, never herd of it nor used it, but it was a "heck" of a deal". I read things like this daily on here. forgive me for being dumb, but whats the rationale in this thinking? enlighten me, please


The bottom line is for most people and OCIs it really does not matter what type or brand of oil you run. Just follow the manual for what to run and OCI and you'll be fine.

Millions PROVE it!

Bill

ok if thats the case (just buy whatever) then what is the point of a site like this?

 

[ottotheclown]

In my opinion,I would suggest,Mobil Clean, Formula Shell, and Havoline in that order>that is if you are in what you may call normal driving: driving in Chic driving in LA or in Astoria Queens NY, very severe and I would suggest 3,000 oci

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4

add valvoline, motorcraft, and supertech to that list, and i believe you would cover nearly every brand/flavor at w/m


Too expensive.. Supertech is so close to the same cost of QS And really GTX is last on the list due to that point. But I've never run any of those in my vehicle so I don't recommend stuff I have not run.

(And before someone comes up with my GTX UOA which was perfect with over 6k qand TBN was still up there I wish GTX was cheaper)

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
what happened to the day when an oci was a little more realistic than 12k+? when you used a oil because it "works" and stuck with it? seems like alot of ppl are just buying whatevers on sale at walmart. "oh i saw such and such oil on clearance at aap, never herd of it nor used it, but it was a "heck" of a deal". I read things like this daily on here. forgive me for being dumb, but whats the rationale in this thinking? enlighten me, please


The bottom line is for most people and OCIs it really does not matter what type or brand of oil you run. Just follow the manual for what to run and OCI and you'll be fine.

Millions PROVE it!

Bill

ok if thats the case (just buy whatever) then what is the point of a site like this?


To show that you don't need to WASTE $$$ with the mindset of

"oil is cheap, engines are not so I buy $5 a quart syn and change it every 3-5k".

Plenty of posts / members here with that...

Bill

 

[Panzerman]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
what happened to the day when an oci was a little more realistic than 12k+? when you used a oil because it "works" and stuck with it? seems like alot of ppl are just buying whatevers on sale at walmart. "oh i saw such and such oil on clearance at aap, never herd of it nor used it, but it was a "heck" of a deal". I read things like this daily on here. forgive me for being dumb, but whats the rationale in this thinking? enlighten me, please
I do it simply because I can get full synthetic at conventional prices if I do it right. I am not a big believer in extended oil changes, so for me getting a full syn. for a conventional oil interval is plus/plus for my engine. I have had the best luck with Quaker state and Castrol. But its fun too to try out new oils, the price is right and its too tempting/ I have about 3 years of oil changes for both of vehicles now.

 

[kcfx4]

so bill would it be wiser of me to spend x amount of dollars getting my oil analazyed? ive always bought ford, but kia's are a quarter of the price so ill just mysteriously change? or is ok for one to buy sythetic for the added protection plus better mpg's? now, im still curious, since all oil is good, but some are more expensive than others, so i buy whatever is on clearence (usually a reason for that), what is the point in a site like this? looks to me like, based on what your saying, if one buys whatevers cheapest and reads the manual, then they're fine?

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
so bill would it be wiser of me to spend x amount of dollars getting my oil analazyed? ive always bought ford, but kia's are a quarter of the price so ill just mysteriously change? or is ok for one to buy sythetic for the added protection plus better mpg's? now, im still curious, since all oil is good, but some are more expensive than others, so i buy whatever is on clearence (usually a reason for that), what is the point in a site like this? looks to me like, based on what your saying, if one buys whatevers cheapest and reads the manual, then they're fine?


Wow.. Your enter key broken?

1. I like UOAs to see how the engine is doing. My first UOA found a problem with my so called good motor and because we found the problem early, no damage was done to the motor and it saved me $1200 plus the rent-car for a few weeks out of warranty.

2. Myth. Syn does not offer more protection in normal OCIs. Another Myth; Syn does not get better MPG.

3. Answered your question above. READ that answer...

4. For the most part (ie cheapest of what is called out in the manual) a high 90s percent of the engines out there that is a correct statement.

Bill

 

[Y_K]

Nothing beats Motul for 5k ODIs

 

[kcfx4]

bill, i do get bttr mpg's on full syn, i recalculated to be sure

 

[Corvette Owner]

I switched my Corvette from Mobil 1 5w30 to Castrol Edge 5w30 due to high UOA lead with Mobil 1. My lead went down 3X's.

I run my oil about 6,000 miles.

 

[Bill in Utah]

Originally Posted By: kcfx4
bill, i do get bttr mpg's on full syn, i recalculated to be sure


Over how many tanks? Over the SAME distance and time of year?

I drive a LOT. Unlike a lot of people I've used both Syn (and BTW what is "full" syn?) and conventional in many different vehicles engine combos and never seen any MPG improvements from .49 cent a quart oil to $8 a quart oil.


Bill

 

[kcfx4]

sorry, didnt bring my science equipment with me, but it was continously better. and if the syns are better for longer oci's, why couldnt one assume it protects better?

 

[river_rat]

Originally Posted By: kevco
After being A long time mobil 1 user I have decided to switch to a diffent oil company, I am thinking of going to Edge or PU. The Car is a 2005 Corolla 1.8 with 31,000 miles on it driven 66 miles a day 90% highway in 80 to 100 degree weather, shoot me some ideas. I am still under warrenty so oci,s longer then 5000miles are not going to happen yet. Thanks

Like was said, for 5K miles, about anything SM GF-4 in the correct weight will work fine. If you like the idea of synthetic (and I do), consider the Toyota OEM. It's not very expensive and the VOA look very stout.
I haven't had a UOA run yet, but I'm pretty confident in using this for the long haul.

 

[sasilverbullet]

I used Mobil 1 in many different vehicles - change them all over to Amsoil about 4 years ago.