today i put some redline 10w30 oil in a glass and poured in some LC.. the LC stayed in a pool right in the middle of the oil didn't mix whatsoever!!!i left it there for 2hrs and it stayed there..i shook the jar around again to see if it would mix...NOT!!! I then stired it and i would not mix right away...what's with this???
LC and Oil didn't mix!!!
- Thread starter boxcartommie22
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Wonder if it has soemthing to do with the high ester content of the redline oil?
Try is some other sort of oil and look for its solubility in that.
This is interesting, I just bought a quart of LC and a second quart of FP60...
Try is some other sort of oil and look for its solubility in that.
This is interesting, I just bought a quart of LC and a second quart of FP60...
yes, maybe its the redline? for some reason i doubt it..the bg moa additive which is also a anti-oxident blends right away...i have been noticing this for awhile..when i chnage my oil as i pour the oil in the funnel along with the Lube Control the redline oil goes right over the LC. LC goes in seperately..you all try it see what you notice?..LC simply dose not mix!!! with oil!!! i always wondered about why lubecontrol is so hush hush about whats in their product..there is no MSDS sheets or product tech. info like redline and schaeffers offers about all their stuff in detail..for now iam stop using all lubecontrol stuff until i find out more...
i am not trying to start any trouble i am just saying what i have noticed..this is just my obsevation..please advise?
if not miscible in the oil you intend to run than change oil brand or stop the LC IMHO with RL you need add nothing.
bruce
bruce
Just to add the popular oil treatment additives on this site were all made/formulated many years ago back when sludge, varnish and cokeing were a problem but PCMO's have change a lot even over the last year.
And a lot if not all of the enhancing additives perfromance improvements were/have been incorporated into the newer SL/SM GPII/GPIII oils.
The days of additives being needed are over, back when motor oil was only ZDDP and a Ca sulfonate
they helped and were needed but now days no help needed just change out at a resonable OCI.
MY OPINION no comment needed.
Bruce
And a lot if not all of the enhancing additives perfromance improvements were/have been incorporated into the newer SL/SM GPII/GPIII oils.
The days of additives being needed are over, back when motor oil was only ZDDP and a Ca sulfonate
they helped and were needed but now days no help needed just change out at a resonable OCI.
MY OPINION no comment needed.
Bruce
thanks that makes sense...thank you
Brownian motion mixing works better with smaller molecule liquids, such as water. Try the same test with any two other motor oils. I bet ya your results will be identical.
The real test is not if they mix easily, but if they will seperate once mixed!
The real test is not if they mix easily, but if they will seperate once mixed!
Actually, try this same test with water and honey. They are both aqueous solutions, but they will not readily mix. Once mixed, however, they stay mixed. This isn't a perfect anology, but it illustrates the point. I think.
I know that it mixed readily with my ATF and I never had it come out seperately from my engine oil.I never used it though with Redline. It mixed easily with Lucas UCL and it mixed easily with gasoline. I tried mixing these items in a glass mason gar prior to useing it. I never tried mix it with oil though in the glass gar. I assumed it would mix with the oil since it was made for use in oil. I know Terry's report stated that it was miscible with oil.
I readily mix ATF(regular dino based) with LC for soaking brass parts and I can tell you with a bit of agitation they mix well.
Did it eventually mix? Did you try heating the mixture to something like 160°F to see if it mixed more easily?
I'm not taking a position either way on LC, I'm just curious.
However, I tend to agree with bruce and don't see the need for SLOP like additives.
i been meaning to do this the other day i wanted to bring the oils inside. the oils were cold in garage(27 f-40 f)they both poured nicely tho!! i will let you all know what i find....fwiw i use redlines 30w racing oil i set it outside at nite when it was -5f and it poured like water....
when i stirred them up they did stay mixed.
when i stirred them up they did stay mixed.
everything warmed up to room temp and lc mixed nicely in the redline 10w30 i cont. to let it sit and there is no separation... i am glad..
is lubecontrol old tech. additive?
is lubecontrol old tech. additive?
I wouldn't consider LC20 to be "old tech". Terry and MolaKule rave about LC20 performance with current oils (both dino and synthetic).
If you search, you will find their very positive comments.
If you search, you will find their very positive comments.
I think that LC20 is at least 40 years old.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...e=44#Post304987
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...e=44#Post304987
even if it doesn't mention it, fp60 is very oily. is it possible that fp60 lubes the upper cylinder area?
I've been using LC-20 since joining this board over four years ago, and for over 100,000 miles in a number of vehicles (not to mention forty years ago when it was still called Micro-Lube). In two of them, REDLINE 10W-30 and RL 5W-40.
Mixes fine with the 3-ozs I add to the engine oil every 700-800 miles, and every 10,000 in ATF and PSF.
An old UOA for you to look at as well on one of our JEEPs in that forum.
Mixes fine with the 3-ozs I add to the engine oil every 700-800 miles, and every 10,000 in ATF and PSF.
An old UOA for you to look at as well on one of our JEEPs in that forum.
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