Last 3 oil analysis on 97 F150

[msparks]

Okay here goes. These are the number from my latest oil analysis.

Miles on oil was 10,800 time was 1 year. No filter changes. Oil used was Amsoil Series 2000 0w30. Also uses a By-pass filtration system.

I have also included the number on the 2 analysis prior. The second row being Amsoil 0w30 with 10,400 which was in over 18 months and 1 filter change. The last number being my first analysis was with Castrol syntec 5w50 6 months on the oil and 2100 miles.

Gylcol: 0
water%: b> Fuel%: 0.0, Vis@100C:12.6(out of grade low 40wt) 12.6, 18.7(syntec 5w50)
Solids: trace, tr, tr,
soot: N/A, N/A, N/A
Oxd%: 6.7, 12.2, 10.0
Nox%: 27.1, 38.6, 17.1
TBN: 9.3, 6.7, 7.6

FE: 26, 33, 11
Cr: 0, 2, 1
Lead: 50, 25, 13
Copper: 43, 24, 8
Al: 9, 12, 8
Ni: 2, 3, 1
Si: 13, 24, 18
Boron: 37, 22, 17
Sodium: 6, 25, 6
Mg: 333, 348, 369
Ca: 3164, 3105, 1500
Ba: 0, 0, 0
P: 1281, 1225, 767
Zn: 1515, 1569, 1138
Mo: 06, 80
Ti: 0, 0, 0
V: 0, 0, 0
Cd: 0, 0, 0

My personal observations are that the lead and copper has gotten increasingly higher. I am guessing this is bearing material. What is causing this I have no clue. My TBN has really held up well comparing to the last change, this is due to the By-pass system absorbing moisture and other acid cause contaminants. My Oxidation is way down, again due to the by-pass system, nox is midway, but what do you want for over 12months!

I feel that I should shorten my filter change interval to 6 months minimum(this is what is recommended anyhow) I changed out my full flow today and left the by-pass filter for another 6 months.

I plan to change the filter again in January and do another analysis. I would only normally do it once a year, but the lead and copper has me concerned.

Overall I am totally please with the numbers. I am probably harder on oil than most, since I do more short trips and take very little long ones. Also my truck can sit for day's at a time, when I'm taking the bike to work and play.

If the numbers stay relitively constant year to year there should be no reason to dump this stuff for a while. Though I do know now that filter changes are a must.

[ August 03, 2002, 11:24 PM: Message edited by: msparks ]

 

[Bio-T]

msparks,
Amsoil SDF filters are designed for extended drain intervals of 12.5K miles or six months, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST.

So a good routine is change the FF at 6 months or 12.5K. Then change the bypass at 12 months, no matter the mileage. Remember that you will have both organic and non-organic contaminants in both filters. Organic contaminants cause sludge, and inorganic contaminants cause engine wear.
Alot of people will argue that this is not cost effective. First of all it will give you clean oil through out the life of the vehicle, and second it will eliminate costly changes. IMHO

 

[Patman]

I'm curious as to why the oil got thicker? I thought oil only got thicker once it had a lot of oxidation? But with such low oxidation numbers, I figure that oil would remain stable. Perhaps Amsoil 0w30's viscosity is normally close to that range? I know their 5w30 is rated at the high end of the 30wt scale (11.9 I believe)

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
msparks,
Amsoil SDF filters are designed for extended drain intervals of 12.5K miles or six months, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST.

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I know that, but I figured since I have the SDF 26, Amsoils largest I would be okay. I now know that this is not the case.

I guess Amsoil came up with those recommendations for a reason

 

[jjbula]

Patman -- I know it isn't very much, but this Castrol has Mo in it too.

msparks -- I'm curious if FF filter changes will alter your numbers. Have you cut one open?

This oil is great for extended drains. Not like the M1 that always gets thinner.

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by jjbula:

msparks -- I'm curious if FF filter changes will alter your numbers. Have you cut one open?

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I believe that FF filter changes should keep the Vis in Check. I would hope that would also keep the Lead, and Copper down.? Though I still haven't figured out what is causing the Lead/Copper numbers.

I have the FF filter here, problem is getting is cut open. I will see if I can do that.

 

[Al]

I'd be inclined to try a 40 wt. Thanks for posting the numbers.

 

[widman]

only 10,000 miles and 1 year. Could be the cause of the iron and lead, as well as copper if you have an oil cooler. The moisture that sits in an engine not run much will cause the rusting of the iron, and the acids formed will eat at the bearings.
Take apart an engine and you can often tell the use it has had. The tel-tail signs of blackened bearings from sitting, things like that. The advantages of synthetics and by-pass filters are for lots of driving. No matter what oil I use I don't let it go beyond 6 months.

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by widman:
only 10,000 miles and 1 year. Could be the cause of the iron and lead, as well as copper if you have an oil cooler. The moisture that sits in an engine not run much will cause the rusting of the iron, and the acids formed will eat at the bearings.

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As far as acid goes my TBN was still 9+ Also OXD/NOX was relatively low.

Also if there was rust would't the FE be high? Any iron getting in the oil should at least make the analysis show higher FE?

 

[msparks]

Just a note,

After my filter change, I had to add almost 2 full quarts

If I am going to be changing my filter every 6 months, I'm thinking of using a smaller one to offset the amount of makeup oil.

I think something with a quart or so would be sufficient ever 6 months.

 

[Spector]

I have one car that I did the oil an filter at 12 months and only 5000 miles on both. Analysis appeared fine. Try to run engine at least 10-15 miles at each start up as they are not that often.

 

[Joel]

msparks,

what lab did your oil analysis?

 

[msparks]

quote:

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Originally posted by Joel:
msparks,

what lab did your oil analysis?

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