Krown/Rust Check on a BMW?

[OVERKILL]

I'm thinking about getting the M5 sprayed (for obvious reasons), but am concerned about getting any holes drilled. I don't want holes in this car. Any holes.

Also, the bottom of the car is covered with massive plastic covers. I assume these will have to be removed to do it "right".

Any Canadians get their BMW sprayed? What was the process?

 

[JHZR2]

I took my saab up to get krowned. They did put some holes in, but I wasnt concerned. Very few. Key is who/how good they are.

I havent seen it as much on my 11 135i, but our 08 VW rabbit (German-made) has a lot of thick rustproofing compound all over. If yours is similar, I wonder if it is necessary. I got the saab krowned, as it gets shod with snow tires and taken to the ski areas...

I'd get a hose-end sprayer, some salt-away, and keep it sprayed with that to neutralize salt. Better yet, when overly salty, dont use it.

it is easy to get under the plastic covers to get some of the underbody sprayed. The areas Id be most concerned with is the suspension and seams/welds in the wheelwell areas, the springs, etc.

 

[IndyIan]

Does it have some rust forming now? If its never going to see salt again maybe its not needed?
I think your options will probably be either take plastic shields off yourself and then go, or ask upfront if say $50-100 extra is going to be enough to cover the time it takes for the techs to take their time to take off and replace all the shielding properly.
Maybe do some research yourself to see if there is any special tricks needed to take it all off and get it back on rattle free...

 

[SLCraig]

I would seriously consider putting that thing away for winter...

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Does it have some rust forming now? If its never going to see salt again maybe its not needed?
I think your options will probably be either take plastic shields off yourself and then go, or ask upfront if say $50-100 extra is going to be enough to cover the time it takes for the techs to take their time to take off and replace all the shielding properly.
Maybe do some research yourself to see if there is any special tricks needed to take it all off and get it back on rattle free...


I have a buddy who works at Krown and sprays my vehicles.

It has a tiny bit of rust on the right-rear door seam at the bottom. Only spot on the car I can find. I've gone over the car already and hit every area I saw that could harbour salt or grime with a can of T-40.

However, I'd like to get the bottom of it sprayed completely, so that would require the removal of the panels. I'm just wondering if we can find access to the rockers and insides of the doors through factory holes instead of having stuff drilled.......

 

[IndyIan]

I had the Tracker done when it was new and the holes they drilled into the doors have rusted slightly, like a few mm around the hole. Also the plugs they use come out too but that's not a big deal on a door.
I guess you could take the trim off the bottom of the door frames as I think there are holes already to get into the rockers, or atleast they could drill the hole under the trim piece so its not visible.

 

[OVERKILL]

Yours have rusted around the holes? That's odd, ours have never done that. My buddy always coats the holes with a mix of Krown and white lithium before inserting the plugs.

 

[IndyIan]

Well, its been about 7 years since I've had it done last... Dumb I know, also the window seals seem to allow alot of water into the doors... No rust inside or outside the door though.

 

[hattaresguy]

Just don't drive it on salty roads.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: hattaresguy
Just don't drive it on salty roads.


I have no intentions of driving it on salty roads, or even in snow for that matter. It will be parked for the winter. However, with the salt in the air during the winter, as well as the thaws/freezes we get up here that promote corrosion, I'd like the car to have a protective barrier on it.

 

[sciphi]

Just do it, and slip your buddy an extra $40 to make sure it's done how you want it. I wouldn't drill, but that's me.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: sciphi
Just do it, and slip your buddy an extra $40 to make sure it's done how you want it. I wouldn't drill, but that's me.


Sort of what I'm thinking.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I have a buddy who works at Krown and sprays my vehicles.

It has a tiny bit of rust on the right-rear door seam at the bottom. Only spot on the car I can find. I've gone over the car already and hit every area I saw that could harbour salt or grime with a can of T-40.

However, I'd like to get the bottom of it sprayed completely, so that would require the removal of the panels. I'm just wondering if we can find access to the rockers and insides of the doors through factory holes instead of having stuff drilled.......


Hate to beak it to you (breaks my heart) but that door is done. Might take 5 or 10 years, but once rust starts, it takes cutting out and doing a super $$$ job to get it back right. And at that point, the paint is no longer original, value is diminished, purists like me wont have any part of it (may not matter to you if youre keeping it forever.

Id either grind the rust off and deal with it properly now, or else chemically convert it and paint it then seal it properly with a rust converting/preventing paint. All the krown in the world isnt going to help much with formed rust. Also on the formed rust, T40 may not be the best agent. You may want to do more with a harder coating agent with less creap and coat, like (IIRC) T32, eastwood HD anti-rust, or waxoyl. Probably after letting some T40 creep in.

I dont think that the panels are that tough. The sprayer atomizes well, and the stuff flows. If you REALLY want it done right, the process should be to remove ALL panels, STEAM CLEAN, then Krown it. Might make sense to take it to a waxoyl shop in VT where this is the process. Waxoyl is harder than krown, might set you up to then just topcoat with Krown on your own.

You can always get Krown to spray stuff as a topcoat without holes.

It may be smart to DIY for stuff like doors - remove the panels, remove the vapor barrier, clean out dust and spray inside, then close them back up.

Im concerned with going after other access points because most of these access points have drain plugs. If an OE rustproofing is coating the inside of the access plug, then this connection has been breached and will open the metallic edges to moisture and rust.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Just do it, and slip your buddy an extra $40 to make sure it's done how you want it. I wouldn't drill, but that's me.


Sort of what I'm thinking.


If the holes are properly protected, there is no issue. Id probably take the liquid can of eastwood HD anti-rust and paint it on the hole plugs and not worry about it.

 

[OVERKILL]

I have intentions on getting the door professionally fixed. The car has had the left-rear fender painted because it was keyed when the PO had it, so the paint isn't original anyway. The lower front valance also needs to be sprayed, since it has been sand blasted.

What I've used on surface rust in the past is the white lithium/krown mix that my buddy gave me a tub of. It seems to work incredibly well.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
I have intentions on getting the door professionally fixed. The car has had the left-rear fender painted because it was keyed when the PO had it, so the paint isn't original anyway. The lower front valance also needs to be sprayed, since it has been sand blasted.

What I've used on surface rust in the past is the white lithium/krown mix that my buddy gave me a tub of. It seems to work incredibly well.


Rust is rust and the issue with a grease mix is that the grease can have some moisture in/under it and keep a microclimate there. You want it to breathe and self-heal as a coating.

To fix properly, you need to cut it out, put new properly rustproofed (galvanized? but then be careful welding/heating it), and then have it properly rustproofed/coated on the inside and outside (be careful of crevices), and then properly primed, painted/blended, clearcoated, etc.

Not a cheap job to do it right but worth it... Good luck!

 

[OVERKILL]

Thanks. My issue is finding a body shop that will fix it correctly.

 

[rjundi]

Our 89 Toyota Pickup rusted out where the rust proofing existing as I believe it blocked the drain holes. A year into its life it had a lot of body work done to an entire side and body shop did not reapply the rust proofing. It never rotted along that side 10 yrs latter.

This truck spent its life in the White Mountains of NH which roads where caked white with salt so tourists with bald tires could whiz to the ski slopes.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: rjundi
Our 89 Toyota Pickup rusted out where the rust proofing existing as I believe it blocked the drain holes. A year into its life it had a lot of body work done to an entire side and body shop did not reapply the rust proofing. It never rotted along that side 10 yrs latter.

This truck spent its life in the White Mountains of NH which roads where caked white with salt so tourists with bald tires could whiz to the ski slopes.


This wouldn't have been Krown or Rust Check then. Both are very light oils that creep and flow. They couldn't block any drain holes if they tried.

 

[ffracer]

If you are keeping the M5 inside, I wouldn't worry about it. You'll be fine as long as it isn't driven until the rain has washed the salt off the roads.

Here in upstate NY, there are plenty of E36, E46, E39 BMWs that are thick with massive rust or rust holes.

Early Audi A4s they rust in the rear wheel wells too.

Only VWs seems to withstand the rust better.

Cars that are seasonal (summer only) last forever here, as long as you don't drive it until the salt is washed off in the spring.