I used Amsoil HD Metal Protectant (I hope that's the name), it worked well. I think next time I'm going to try Fluid Film, I think it is a safer product to use, but the Amsoil product worked very well.
Krown and RustCheck differences.
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Originally Posted By: sciphi
What about Fluid Film? It's basically lanolin in a can propelled out by CO2. I've used it on the Fit for the past few years. It looks pristine underneath.
+2.
I have a few cans of Fluid Film for touch up areas on my car. I do get it KROWN rust proofed but Fluid Film is for areas that see the most activity (wheel wells etc)
What about Fluid Film? It's basically lanolin in a can propelled out by CO2. I've used it on the Fit for the past few years. It looks pristine underneath.
+2.
I have a few cans of Fluid Film for touch up areas on my car. I do get it KROWN rust proofed but Fluid Film is for areas that see the most activity (wheel wells etc)
Advantage of Krown here in Canada is that it does not damage (swell) rubber weatherstrips like the Rust Check product does. Have used Krown for years, usually apply it when a dry week is coming up in the summer, then it can dry and seep in to all the crevices and not be affected by rain or salt right away, just my 2 cents.
One problem with ANY rust attenuator is that much rust is covered by paint. [you know, bubbles and such]
Any coating won't do much.
It is actually better to have down to the metal rust.
Any coating won't do much.
It is actually better to have down to the metal rust.
Originally Posted By: vintagegz
Advantage of Krown here in Canada is that it does not damage (swell) rubber weatherstrips like the Rust Check product does. Have used Krown for years, usually apply it when a dry week is coming up in the summer, then it can dry and seep in to all the crevices and not be affected by rain or salt right away, just my 2 cents.
Yep, I coated our cars a few weeks ago when the daytime temperatures were in the low 80's (*F). Observing things, the Fluid Film has indeed crept into nooks and crannies. It's then stayed in place now that things have cooled down.
I believe the OP is trying to apply to a new or rust-free vehicle.
Advantage of Krown here in Canada is that it does not damage (swell) rubber weatherstrips like the Rust Check product does. Have used Krown for years, usually apply it when a dry week is coming up in the summer, then it can dry and seep in to all the crevices and not be affected by rain or salt right away, just my 2 cents.
Yep, I coated our cars a few weeks ago when the daytime temperatures were in the low 80's (*F). Observing things, the Fluid Film has indeed crept into nooks and crannies. It's then stayed in place now that things have cooled down.
I believe the OP is trying to apply to a new or rust-free vehicle.
what about cars that are just slightly rusty? it's my understanding rustcheck will slow the process waaaay down. A guy at work had it done to an old pontiac station wagan and in the course of about 8 years it didn't get much worse. this car had light surface rust and pinholes.
Kestas
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Yes, a good rustproof treatment will benefit any car, no matter how rusty they are.
it's that time of year again. who is going to spray on rust proofing?
No response. evidently rust check is the best
I will be getting my truck Krowned within the month. I have only had it sprayed once before, about two years ago. Definitely time to get it done again.
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
I can buy Krown locally or mail order. or rust check in a spray can. or I could spray used oil though a pump sprayer. why not recycle the used oil?
NO used oil, it will wash off and pollute the planet.
I can buy Krown locally or mail order. or rust check in a spray can. or I could spray used oil though a pump sprayer. why not recycle the used oil?
NO used oil, it will wash off and pollute the planet.
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
No response. evidently rust check is the best
I have no experience with RustCheck, but do with CarWell (also known as Krown). I think RustCheck would come in third behind FluidFilm.
However the people doing CarWell have pressure pumps and a 3' wand to really get into body cavities. There is something to be said for having an experienced person do the vehicle at least the first time.
No response. evidently rust check is the best
I have no experience with RustCheck, but do with CarWell (also known as Krown). I think RustCheck would come in third behind FluidFilm.
However the people doing CarWell have pressure pumps and a 3' wand to really get into body cavities. There is something to be said for having an experienced person do the vehicle at least the first time.
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I've gone wild with FF (Krown). My Frontier has a disappointing amount of rust on the bottom side of the floorpan, so this will be a great test. I must say that I am very with impressed how it creeped into a binding and rusty auto door hinge. That door now swings freely. I've never been able to successfully resuscitate a neglected car door hinge.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
No response. evidently rust check is the best
I have no experience with RustCheck, but do with CarWell (also known as Krown). I think RustCheck would come in third behind FluidFilm.
However the people doing CarWell have pressure pumps and a 3' wand to really get into body cavities. There is something to be said for having an experienced person do the vehicle at least the first time.
rustcheck is applied with special wands and they have a separate formula for chassis vs door interiors, etc.
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
No response. evidently rust check is the best
I have no experience with RustCheck, but do with CarWell (also known as Krown). I think RustCheck would come in third behind FluidFilm.
However the people doing CarWell have pressure pumps and a 3' wand to really get into body cavities. There is something to be said for having an experienced person do the vehicle at least the first time.
rustcheck is applied with special wands and they have a separate formula for chassis vs door interiors, etc.
I sprayed our work plow truck before with a spray bottle of new 10W non detergent oil and it sat in a heated garage for 3 days. The next spring, there was absolutely no sign of anything oily or protected under the truck. I sprayed WD40 on a rusty section of my old truck's bed and soon it seemed more rusty than before? The Carwell treatments do wash off over time in the wheel well areas from the constant spray, but 90 percent of the underside is still oily and protected. My experiences is I would not use new/used oil at all. Pollution aside, it just didn't seem to stick or spread. Carwell (Krown) did. Touch up the wheel wells with a spray can of Krown mid winter and be done until next year.
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
rustcheck is applied with special wands and they have a separate formula for chassis vs door interiors, etc.
So does Krown. They have or at least used to have T-32 and T-40 formulas. T-32 was thinner than T-40 and was used for spraying inside panels.
In fact Krown and Rustcheck was in the past the same company. They split for whatever reason, but looking at their spraying methods and the products, they still have a lot in common.
Krown is getting big in Canada and I think that will be their downfall as they will dilute the formula and castrate the application process to maximize profits. I haven't done a Krown application in about two years. The last time I did it, I noticed that they were quite sloppy in the application, were trying to rush and put down the product much thinner then normally. This is the same outfit I used since I bought my Mazda brand new and they were definitely better in the past. I had to point out few missed locations and they reluctantly sprayed the areas, but I will not be going back to that location again.
I'm reading that this type of service is starting to be common amongst other Krown outfits.
I'm doing my own thing now because I have the means to do so. I would still recommend Krown, just like many others on this board, but it cannot be stressed enough, especially for guys coming over from States to Canada just to get their car sprayed by Krown, to do your research about the outfit that will be doing the work. Maybe get some feedback from members here. I know we tend to fixate our attention to the product, but the application is also very important. Whether it's Krown, Rust Check, FF or something else, IMO it's not that critical, as long as it's some type of oily, nondrying and creeping type product, but the application is. Watch the application process and don't be shy to point out mistakes. If the place does not allow you to watch the process, find another one.
rustcheck is applied with special wands and they have a separate formula for chassis vs door interiors, etc.
So does Krown. They have or at least used to have T-32 and T-40 formulas. T-32 was thinner than T-40 and was used for spraying inside panels.
In fact Krown and Rustcheck was in the past the same company. They split for whatever reason, but looking at their spraying methods and the products, they still have a lot in common.
Krown is getting big in Canada and I think that will be their downfall as they will dilute the formula and castrate the application process to maximize profits. I haven't done a Krown application in about two years. The last time I did it, I noticed that they were quite sloppy in the application, were trying to rush and put down the product much thinner then normally. This is the same outfit I used since I bought my Mazda brand new and they were definitely better in the past. I had to point out few missed locations and they reluctantly sprayed the areas, but I will not be going back to that location again.
I'm reading that this type of service is starting to be common amongst other Krown outfits.
I'm doing my own thing now because I have the means to do so. I would still recommend Krown, just like many others on this board, but it cannot be stressed enough, especially for guys coming over from States to Canada just to get their car sprayed by Krown, to do your research about the outfit that will be doing the work. Maybe get some feedback from members here. I know we tend to fixate our attention to the product, but the application is also very important. Whether it's Krown, Rust Check, FF or something else, IMO it's not that critical, as long as it's some type of oily, nondrying and creeping type product, but the application is. Watch the application process and don't be shy to point out mistakes. If the place does not allow you to watch the process, find another one.
Good points KrisZ.
I had my new Jeep Krowned in Windsor this summer by a respected shop and they botched it a bit. The applicator tech. was an experienced, older guy, but he had problems drilling several of the rocker panel access holes. The holes were enlarged and/or out of round just enough that the plastic plugs fit very loose. I caught this before leaving and they made a great attempt to make things right........they had alternative rubber plugs for this situation. The tech. screwed up and mgmt. showed concern and great customer service to correct it, but still, I was upset to say the least.
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
Whether one chooses Rust Check, Krown, Carwell, or Corrosion Free, the success of the process depends on the skill and care of the guy applying it.
And, I have said this several times: I am more concerned about getting all the enclosed weld seams (doors, fenders, etc.) more than just undercoating the visible underside. All of my rust problems have come from the inside out.
I had my new Jeep Krowned in Windsor this summer by a respected shop and they botched it a bit. The applicator tech. was an experienced, older guy, but he had problems drilling several of the rocker panel access holes. The holes were enlarged and/or out of round just enough that the plastic plugs fit very loose. I caught this before leaving and they made a great attempt to make things right........they had alternative rubber plugs for this situation. The tech. screwed up and mgmt. showed concern and great customer service to correct it, but still, I was upset to say the least.
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
Whether one chooses Rust Check, Krown, Carwell, or Corrosion Free, the success of the process depends on the skill and care of the guy applying it.
And, I have said this several times: I am more concerned about getting all the enclosed weld seams (doors, fenders, etc.) more than just undercoating the visible underside. All of my rust problems have come from the inside out.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
.
that sounds completely messed up
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
.
that sounds completely messed up
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
.
that sounds completely messed up
That is true as the place I used to go to also used only T-40 formula. However, reading through some older internet discussions, it seems that T-40 was pretty heavy and designed for the undercarriage. The stuff they use now washes off rather easily from wheel wells and other high spray areas.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
.
that sounds completely messed up
That is true as the place I used to go to also used only T-40 formula. However, reading through some older internet discussions, it seems that T-40 was pretty heavy and designed for the undercarriage. The stuff they use now washes off rather easily from wheel wells and other high spray areas.
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Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
.
that sounds completely messed up
That is true as the place I used to go to also used only T-40 formula. However, reading through some older internet discussions, it seems that T-40 was pretty heavy and designed for the undercarriage. The stuff they use now washes off rather easily from wheel wells and other high spray areas.
They use T-40 for pretty much everything now. It is not as heavy as the older T-40, but heavier than T-32 IIRC.
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I asked if they used 2 products and they replied no, they just use one for both interior and exterior application.
.
that sounds completely messed up
That is true as the place I used to go to also used only T-40 formula. However, reading through some older internet discussions, it seems that T-40 was pretty heavy and designed for the undercarriage. The stuff they use now washes off rather easily from wheel wells and other high spray areas.
They use T-40 for pretty much everything now. It is not as heavy as the older T-40, but heavier than T-32 IIRC.
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