Krown and RustCheck differences.

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I have a local RustCheck place. However it seems that Krown is better and i can get it mail order. what are the differences and could I get rustcheck and reapply Krown on top of it? Let's talk about Krown and Rustcheck. I can also get rustcheck in spray. is it hazardous? should a person wear a respirator? I hear Krown is safer.
 

JHZR2

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Carwell sells the krown products in the USA. At least it used to be that other fluids besides Krown would turn acidic if not topcoated every so often. Not sure if this would be a moot point if rustcheck was topcoated by Krown. The only benefit would be IMO that if rustcheck made the holes and recommended the application points for you, then you did a top up to save $$$.
 

FXjohn

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I can buy Krown locally or mail order. or rust check in a spray can. or I could spray used oil though a pump sprayer. why not recycle the used oil?
 

JHZR2

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that is an option, I suppose. The question is if it will creep, if the additives and acids in it will do negative things, etc. It may well be a fine option, or it may be so short-lived that it is irrelevant.
 

FXjohn

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i have one oil cooler hose that leaks a little. maybe enough to add a quart between oil changes. all the metal that gets oil on it looks pristine.
 

OVERKILL

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Originally Posted By: Kestas
I tried oil once. Never again. It washed away and left the metal bone dry long before winter was over.
Never had that issue. Though the first coat "dries" after a few months. Subsequent coats stay "wet" longer, however, from what I understand of the product, the oil is a carrier for the corrosion inhibitors, and even if it looks "dry" it is still being protected.
 
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Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I tried oil once. Never again. It washed away and left the metal bone dry long before winter was over.
Never had that issue. Though the first coat "dries" after a few months. Subsequent coats stay "wet" longer, however, from what I understand of the product, the oil is a carrier for the corrosion inhibitors, and even if it looks "dry" it is still being protected.
Kestas is referring to engine oil, NOT any rust prevention product. Engine oil DOES work, but it indeed needs re application. Lots.
 

FXjohn

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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I tried oil once. Never again. It washed away and left the metal bone dry long before winter was over.
Never had that issue. Though the first coat "dries" after a few months. Subsequent coats stay "wet" longer, however, from what I understand of the product, the oil is a carrier for the corrosion inhibitors, and even if it looks "dry" it is still being protected.
Kestas is referring to engine oil, NOT any rust prevention product. Engine oil DOES work, but it indeed needs re application. Lots.
do it every time you change you oil. no old oil to haul away
 
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Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I tried oil once. Never again. It washed away and left the metal bone dry long before winter was over.
Never had that issue. Though the first coat "dries" after a few months. Subsequent coats stay "wet" longer, however, from what I understand of the product, the oil is a carrier for the corrosion inhibitors, and even if it looks "dry" it is still being protected.
Kestas is referring to engine oil, NOT any rust prevention product. Engine oil DOES work, but it indeed needs re application. Lots.
do it every time you change you oil. no old oil to haul away
How good for the environment can it be to spray used oil on your chassis every oil change? How about if Jiffy Lube did that after they drained your oil? Used oil is a lot worse than the products made for rustproofing.
 

FXjohn

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Originally Posted By: Donald
How good for the environment can it be to spray used oil on your chassis every oil change? How about if Jiffy Lube did that after they drained your oil? Used oil is a lot worse than the products made for rustproofing.
what is rust check? oil, right?
 
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What about Fluid Film? It's basically lanolin in a can propelled out by CO2. I've used it on the Fit for the past few years. It looks pristine underneath.
 
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Originally Posted By: sciphi
What about Fluid Film? It's basically lanolin in a can propelled out by CO2. I've used it on the Fit for the past few years. It looks pristine underneath.
+1 I just bought a gallon a couple months ago and did my jeep.
 

FXjohn

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Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
Originally Posted By: sciphi
What about Fluid Film? It's basically lanolin in a can propelled out by CO2. I've used it on the Fit for the past few years. It looks pristine underneath.
+1 I just bought a gallon a couple months ago and did my jeep.
how much was it, and how did you apply it?
 

JHZR2

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Sounds like aerosol cans? Ive read that latex paint sprayer equipment can apply FF straight from the can.
 
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They sell it in both 16 oz aerosol cans and by the gallon/pail/drum. I got the case of 12 16 oz cans for about $90 shipped. That was enough to do both our Honda and Chevy, slathering it on thick and into every nook/cranny the spray can hose could fit into. It could be painted on. The cans offer better coverage IMO, and access to door innards and nooks not accessible by paintbrush.
 

JHZR2

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Originally Posted By: sciphi
access to door innards
So the fluid film aerosol has a little red straw type thing like a bottle of WD-40 and you get it into the door? What are your access points? The door check and the lock mechanism?
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: sciphi
access to door innards
So the fluid film aerosol has a little red straw type thing like a bottle of WD-40 and you get it into the door? What are your access points? The door check and the lock mechanism?
Yes. They have little red straws that snap into the nozzle. I spray into the door drain holes, making sure to get the bottom seams, the corners, and as far up into the door as possible. The extra stuff drains out the drain holes, so they're never blocked. The lock mechanisms, hinges, and strike plates also get coated. Those straws are incredibly handy for coating the underside, and areas not easily accessible by the regular aerosol spray.
 
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