Kroil failed for me

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11,656
Location
NorthEast
The downstream O2 sensor heater died. Last night I liberaly spread Kroil on the sensor. This has an O2 extension, so I spread on both ends of the extension. In the morning handed the new O2 sensor to my mechanic and asked him to keep the extension on the car and replace the sensor. Knowing Kroil's miracle powers, I hold him it should come off easy. As soon as he puts a wrench on, the extension breaks off and he hands me the old O2 sensor along with the half of the extension to me. He then tries to take off the extension end still attached to the catalytic converter. It is not budging at all. Out comes his blue wrench, broken extension is glowing red and it comes out without any more struggle. After bringing old sensor at home I decided to try it myself to see if I can separate the sensor and the extension. I had O2 socket with a slit in it, so I tried to hold one end with a breaker bar and bang the other end with C3 lithium 19.2 impact. It does not budge at all. Suddenly the battery goes complete dead. Putting it on the charger reveals that something has gone wrong with it :-( Took the battery and put it in the freeze for five minutes. Now the charger has at least accepted the battery. We will see what happens in an hour. The stainless steel O2 sensor extension is on the way and I will be making another trip to the garage to install it. I am extremely disappointed with Kroil. I have another project to remove and clean the EGR valve. The bolts are right staring at me but I see lot of rust. I have sprayed with Kroil many times but I am still reluctant to touch them, especially with today's major fail.
 
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8,655
Location
Champlain/Hudson Valley
Hello, Good report but I think you tried (and will try) it on the absolute worst examples in the automotive world. Overnight might not be enough for ANY product to work; if it can at all. Kira
 
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1,227
Location
Columbus Nebraska
Kroil is good stuff, but even it can't/won't work miracles, and some things, no matter how long soaked just won't come loose. Well, I guess I really shouldn't say that, because I have never tried soaking things for weeks or month at a time, because I usually need to get things fixed sooner rather than later.
 
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434
Location
Ga
Be sure and use some anti-seize paste on the threads of your O2 sensor parts. I like the copper Denso stuff. It will save some pain if you have to service the parts later.
 

Vikas

Thread starter
Messages
11,656
Location
NorthEast
If the code P0401 comes back I am going to drench the EGR bolts every night for a week before even putting a socket on it. Here is a question to experienced mechanics:- Is it better to start with small 3/8 impact before putting a breaker bar on a fastener which might have tendency to shear? I think impact is better than torque but I will defer to more knowledgeable people on this.
 
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5,091
Location
USA
In all honesty,how can any penetrant creep under a compression gasket to reach threads? Is it laser powered or caustic? Heck no.
 

ls1mike

$50 Site Donor 2021
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6,822
Location
In the Garage...
We use Kroil in the submarine Navy. To be honest I have never really cared for it. I like PB Blaster. If that doesn't work a little tranny fluid will seep in there.
 
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17,593
Location
Upper Midwest
Always wondered that myself. I don't have a lot of trust or good experiences with any "penetrating oil", AeroKroil included. YMMV.
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
In all honesty,how can any penetrant creep under a compression gasket to reach threads? Is it laser powered or caustic? Heck no.
 

JHZR2

Staff member
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46,293
Location
New Jersey
This anecdotal story seems to me no different then when someone puts hm oil into a car with a mechanical leak, and complains it didn't work. Sounds to me that op installed a sensor extension. How are we supposed to know of the appropriate anti-seize was used? Was the extension the appropriate metallurgy, or were they dissimilar metals? That's a wet and corrosive environment. Ive had sensors where I've had to use s floor Jack against a breaker bar to get it loose. The thing with kroil to me personally, is not that it's necessarily better or worse than anything else, but it is not an aerosol product, so can be applied cleaner and with more precision sometimes.
 
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35,818
Location
NY
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
You can't expect miracles from any of this stuff, but Kriol works better than most.
BINGO! I found a trick that helps is to saturate the part, and then bang it or around it to setup some vibration. Let is sit a few hours, re-soak it, tap/bang it again, then try freeing it the next day. There are certain instances where these products won't work, but for the most part I've very good results with Kroil using the method I mentioned.
 

01rangerxl

Site Donor 2021
Messages
10,322
Location
Birmingham, AL
Originally Posted By: Doog
PB Blaster is my creep oil of choice
X2. I have used PB on many exhaust nuts and bolts and it usually works pretty well. But down here, severe rust is not an issue. Exhaust does rust on the surface, but not enough to really crud up the hardware. When I replaced the y-pipe on my truck a little over a year ago, the 11 year old hardware came out easy with an air ratchet and PB Blaster that had soaked for maybe 15 minutes. The exhaust had never been touched prior to that.
 
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26,152
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Is it better to start with small 3/8 impact before putting a breaker bar on a fastener which might have tendency to shear? I think impact is better than torque but I will defer to more knowledgeable people on this.
Absolutely! Bigger rusted bolts and nuts i use the 1/2 air impact turned down low and let it hammer for awhile before turning up the power. Don't use an extension if you can help it, they absorb some of the impact.
 
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22
Location
New Zealand
When something is badly seized, the only thing that works is heat. Penetrants really only work when something is semi-seized. The rust/corrosion is itself the barrier to the oil getting in. Just saying.
 
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2,688
Location
Elderly County, Florida
For me, it's been a 50/50 mixture of brake fluid and atf. While body rot from road salt isn't really a problem in these parts, (unless it's a car from the rust belt), old farm equipment that has been sitting for decades in the dirt and weather can be a real challenge.
 

Vikas

Thread starter
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11,656
Location
NorthEast
Originally Posted By: Excalibur
When something is badly seized, the only thing that works is heat. Penetrants really only work when something is semi-seized. The rust/corrosion is itself the barrier to the oil getting in. Just saying.
This makes perfect sense. There really is no way the penetrating oil can penetrate when the metals have essential fused together. Trav, The EGR is fastened by 10mm headed nut. Start with 3/8, right?
 
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