Kreen worked and then stopped working? WTH?

[spasm3]

You didn't mention oil consumption so this is hard to figure out. I would wonder if the engine is still burning a bit of oil with or without the kreen. Perhaps the solvent properties of kreen aided in cleaner/hotter combustion and the oil was there but burned cleaner and you could not see it.

 

[dx92beater]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
You didn't mention oil consumption so this is hard to figure out. I would wonder if the engine is still burning a bit of oil with or without the kreen. Perhaps the solvent properties of kreen aided in cleaner/hotter combustion and the oil was there but burned cleaner and you could not see it.


I really don't *think* that consumption has changed much with the Kreen. You have an interesting point. I had given this some thought on the TCW-3 side. Maybe the TCW-3 has a Polybutylene additive or the like? Same with Kreen.....and/or cleaner burning (better combustion)?

Great point.

 

[Ohle_Manezzini]

TCW3 in already gummed up piston rings... hummm. Well, whatever.

 

[dx92beater]

Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
TCW3 in already gummed up piston rings... hummm. Well, whatever.


I'd encourage you to get lost from this thread with your perpetual rambling.

 

[Ohle_Manezzini]

No, thanks,

 

[UltrafanUK]

There is not much you can do about broken or worn rings in oil or additive terms, although it is worth trying a major brand idle flush just before an oil & filter change jusy in case the oil rings are coked up. Once you have done a flush I would try burning the rest of the carbon off the compression rings with a long highway trip or Italian tune up. A piston soak is also worth a try, although it can make starting some worn engines an issue if done during the winter as it lower compression for a while.

Once you have got the block clean and checked the CCV is working OK, try moving up one SAE group and switch to an HM oil or in a bad case try adding a can of stop leak additive. Most engines with bad rings also have bad valve guide oil seals, so the seal conditioners or swellers in an HM oil or stop leak are worth a try, as is using a thicker oil.

 

[UltrafanUK]

Did not quite finish my last post!
I think this kreen stuff is supposed to be used as both an oil and gas additive, as is the old fashion MMO. In my opinion you can't design an additive that works well in both the oil and fuel.
I asked LM R&D who make both oil and fuel additives why their oil scourer could not be used as an injection system cleaner and he said it was not a good idea as some of the oil seals and plastic components used in the fuel system are not compatible with the chemicals in a good flush. When MMO was tested as a fuel additive in comparison with other oil additives recommended for alternate use in the fuel, it did almost nothing and the big surprise was that Bio diesel turned out to be the best solvent and upper cylinder lubricant.

Blue smoke on start can be caused by both a worn block (Bad rings in particular), a turbo oil seal failure or oily deposts in the intake. A leaking HG can also cause blue smoke on cold starts, but I doubt if bad injectors would cause it.

In conclusion if you want to use oil or fuel additives, stick to major brand companies like Amsoil, Castrol (They make a good idle use oil flush), Liqui Moly, Lubeguard or B&G. Stay away from back street mixers and do not use oil additives in a vehicle under warranty without written clearance (An e-mail from a business address is OK) from the dealership.

 

[dx92beater]

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Did not quite finish my last post!
I think this kreen stuff is supposed to be used as both an oil and gas additive, as is the old fashion MMO. In my opinion you can't design an additive that works well in both the oil and fuel.
I asked LM R&D who make both oil and fuel additives why their oil scourer could not be used as an injection system cleaner and he said it was not a good idea as some of the oil seals and plastic components used in the fuel system are not compatible with the chemicals in a good flush. When MMO was tested as a fuel additive in comparison with other oil additives recommended for alternate use in the fuel, it did almost nothing and the big surprise was that Bio diesel turned out to be the best solvent and upper cylinder lubricant.

Blue smoke on start can be caused by both a worn block (Bad rings in particular), a turbo oil seal failure or oily deposts in the intake. A leaking HG can also cause blue smoke on cold starts, but I doubt if bad injectors would cause it.

In conclusion if you want to use oil or fuel additives, stick to major brand companies like Amsoil, Castrol (They make a good idle use oil flush), Liqui Moly, Lubeguard or B&G. Stay away from back street mixers and do not use oil additives in a vehicle under warranty without written clearance (An e-mail from a business address is OK) from the dealership.


Excellent posts! Just wanted to add that this is a Boxer H-6 Motor, so soaks would be pointless. I checked the CCV and it is working fine. These motors are starting to get a reputation for bad head gaskets at about this mileage. I'd doubt that is the cause, but never stopped to think about this.

I'll go ahead and take heed to your advice.

Cheers M8.

 

[kr_bitog]

I find those Kreen and B12 is harsh on seals, so while it clean the ring carbon, it may brittle your seal. So beware when you do that on old engine