Kreen Update

[Trajan]

Originally Posted By: mongo161
Still......there are no pictures of before and after use with Kreen?

Does anyone really use this great product?


Posting about it is all the proof you need. One must not question the Tao of kreen. Or the Tao of mmo for that matter.

 

[Trav]

Don't like the pics over at that other board?
Quote:
Trajan
Newbie
Status: Offline
Posts: 2
Date: Sun Jul 31 00:09:19 2011

-----------------------------------------------------------
And what's the deal? This seems to be the only place to admit using/liking the product without being exposed to c3po/pontiac fan/big bear's anti (name of product removed so i cant be accused of slamming the product) crusade.

Have you thought that seeing he owns the place and the product you can talk about it all you want.
I for one don't have time to take engines apart and take pics, i work on them every day. Some of these valve cover gaskets are expensive and needs a few hours to remove intakes and stuff I just cant do it for the sake of a before picture.

Pictures can be put together to show anything you want although if your not thinking quick you may forget to rotate the engine to show the lobes in a few different positions or someone may come to the conclusion they were staged.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: mongo161
The PCV valves, if cleaned thoroughly, can be reused over again.

I usually give the PCV valve a good spray and then a soaking in brake cleaner for a few days. Then just Dry it off and let it air dry naturally before storing it......to be used in again in a few oil changes down the road.

Rotating and cleaning these PCV valves is easy and will insure optimum performance.


If it can be cleaned and put back to use immediately then there will be no need to buy a new one even if the cleaning procedure is somewhat elaborate.

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't care for these long service intervals being recommended by manufacturers these days.
IMHO they just shift the cost of maintenance down the road sometimes with real negative consequences.
One of these being engine deposits on some vehicles because of a neglected PCV valve.

I see so many engines that have the PCV in obscure locations,some bolted in,screwed in,hidden under covers etc.
These more often than not get neglected simply because they cant be easily found and the darn manuals don't specify a change interval.
With tune ups sometimes being specified at 100K chance are the poor PCV doesn't get serviced either,
even then if its not stuck right in the valve cover with a hose connected to it there is a good chance it remains in there for the next round.

Many cars today have screw in valves that are difficult to find,look for the valve even on a GM 3800 GENII engine.
I go 30-50K and change them,this seems to keep things in good working order.

One last thought is using OEM valves instead of aftermarket.
There is such a difference in quality these days that using aftermarket valves can be inviting problems,IMO go OEM.


Trav, ive never been able to find one on my 06 5.3 ltr silverado, your input ? i think i asked Chevy over the phone about it and i got a responce like there were some model years that got them and others that didnt.. sounds fishy, but ive not found one..


Otis it should be on the driver's side valve cover in the back, on top. If it has been in there a while, good luck in removing--they seem to get glued to the plastic insert in the valve cover


I dont know how i must have missed it, i will look closer tomorrow and see if i can find it, ive replaced many of these in the past, My truck is the first i wasnt able to locate one.. i must just be blind..

 

[OtisBlkR1]

Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't care for these long service intervals being recommended by manufacturers these days.
IMHO they just shift the cost of maintenance down the road sometimes with real negative consequences.
One of these being engine deposits on some vehicles because of a neglected PCV valve.

I see so many engines that have the PCV in obscure locations,some bolted in,screwed in,hidden under covers etc.
These more often than not get neglected simply because they cant be easily found and the darn manuals don't specify a change interval.
With tune ups sometimes being specified at 100K chance are the poor PCV doesn't get serviced either,
even then if its not stuck right in the valve cover with a hose connected to it there is a good chance it remains in there for the next round.

Many cars today have screw in valves that are difficult to find,look for the valve even on a GM 3800 GENII engine.
I go 30-50K and change them,this seems to keep things in good working order.

One last thought is using OEM valves instead of aftermarket.
There is such a difference in quality these days that using aftermarket valves can be inviting problems,IMO go OEM.


Trav, ive never been able to find one on my 06 5.3 ltr silverado, your input ? i think i asked Chevy over the phone about it and i got a responce like there were some model years that got them and others that didnt.. sounds fishy, but ive not found one..


Otis it should be on the driver's side valve cover in the back, on top. If it has been in there a while, good luck in removing--they seem to get glued to the plastic insert in the valve cover


Ok Steve, big thanks i found it today, and your right at 64,xxx on the clock im assuming its the original.. what the trick to getting that sucker out ? i squirted some Tri-Flow around it today (just a tick) hopeing it might seep in and loosen things up, i grabbed it with a pair of pliers, using alot of caution not to crush it as i had no replacement handy and it wouldnt budge, then tried a set of needle nose, no luck.. its not threaded or anything is it ? when i get a replacement just get ahold of it and yank it out ? this was also on a cold motor, im sure a warm block might help some.

 

[steve20]

Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't care for these long service intervals being recommended by manufacturers these days.
IMHO they just shift the cost of maintenance down the road sometimes with real negative consequences.
One of these being engine deposits on some vehicles because of a neglected PCV valve.

I see so many engines that have the PCV in obscure locations,some bolted in,screwed in,hidden under covers etc.
These more often than not get neglected simply because they cant be easily found and the darn manuals don't specify a change interval.
With tune ups sometimes being specified at 100K chance are the poor PCV doesn't get serviced either,
even then if its not stuck right in the valve cover with a hose connected to it there is a good chance it remains in there for the next round.

Many cars today have screw in valves that are difficult to find,look for the valve even on a GM 3800 GENII engine.
I go 30-50K and change them,this seems to keep things in good working order.

One last thought is using OEM valves instead of aftermarket.
There is such a difference in quality these days that using aftermarket valves can be inviting problems,IMO go OEM.


Trav, ive never been able to find one on my 06 5.3 ltr silverado, your input ? i think i asked Chevy over the phone about it and i got a responce like there were some model years that got them and others that didnt.. sounds fishy, but ive not found one..


Otis it should be on the driver's side valve cover in the back, on top. If it has been in there a while, good luck in removing--they seem to get glued to the plastic insert in the valve cover


Ok Steve, big thanks i found it today, and your right at 64,xxx on the clock im assuming its the original.. what the trick to getting that sucker out ? i squirted some Tri-Flow around it today (just a tick) hopeing it might seep in and loosen things up, i grabbed it with a pair of pliers, using alot of caution not to crush it as i had no replacement handy and it wouldnt budge, then tried a set of needle nose, no luck.. its not threaded or anything is it ? when i get a replacement just get ahold of it and yank it out ? this was also on a cold motor, im sure a warm block might help some.



I am in the exact same situation as you Otis-I've tried everything you mentioned, and also tried AeroKroil and PB blaster several days in a row--it won't budge at 97K miles. Maybe Trav has a way-he probably sees a 5.3 everyday

 

[Trav]

I believe in 2004 GM went to a fixed orifice PCV that is not meant to be replaced although i believe it does come out and if the old style is found to be used it should be replaced with a new GM fixed tube type.
They had some oil control issues with the old style, there is a TSB on it. I will see if i can find the TSB today.

If you don't mind waiting a day i will be happy to find out exactly what the deal is with these years.
They did make one that was not replaceable but IIRC it was under the valve cover and used no grommet like the push ins.

 

[SteveSRT8]

It's not replaceable. It is on most of our fleet trucks.

Let the engine idle and spray a LOT of carb cleaner through the tube that leads to the throttle body. Takes 5 minutes.

No need to buy an entire TB!

 

[Bayman]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
It's not replaceable. It is on most of our fleet trucks.

Let the engine idle and spray a LOT of carb cleaner through the tube that leads to the throttle body. Takes 5 minutes.

No need to buy an entire TB!


What about spraying carb cleaner towards the PCV.

 

[Ken2]

Quote:
fixed orifice PCV
Got one something like that on one of the family fleet. When I first found it the orifice was plugged hard. I put my smallest drill bit into some needle nose vice grips and worked that in through the blockage. Then the next size drill bit, then finally the bit that fit the hole in the plastic. Now it is easy to keep clean with an easy ream at each oil change.

 

[Trav]

If the PCV uses a rubber grommet and the metal lip of the PCV valve is visible above the grommet it can be replaced.
Sometimes they are hard to remove, try at normal operating temperature. These can be very tight, try regular slip joint pliers and use a deep socket as a fulcrum under the pliers.
As Steve pointed out some are not replaceable, there are about 4 vin codes for these engines.

If in doubt go to the dealer, it will only cost a few bucks.

If an early rattle valve is installed it needs to be swapped out to the new style.

An excerpt from GM document..

Remove the PCV valve and inspect the hose going to the intake manifold for signs of excessive oil being present.
If excessive oil is present in the PCV hose, replace the PCV valve (Type 948C) (2) with a new-style fixed orifice PCV valve, GM P/N 12572717(1). See the illustration below.
PCV Valve Identification

(1) New style fixed orifice PCV Valve
(2) Spring and plunger style PCV Valve (Type 948-C)

Important: The new style fixed orifice PCV valve contains no moving parts, and does not rattle when shaken.

If the vehicle has an orifice style PCV valve, investigate other causes for high oil consumption.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

12572717
Valve, PCV
1

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

 

[mongo161]

I only put about 10-15 minutes, at most, of my time into this procedure.

Remove the old PCV
Place dirty PCV in a small jar
Spray thoughly with brake cleaner
Remove contaminated brake cleaner from the jar
Cover with clean brake fluid
Let it sit for a couple of days...shake a couple of times
Remove the soaked clean PCV valve
Dry off with paper towel or rag
Let PCV Air dry
Put the PCV back in the package or zip lock sandwich bag
store for next use

 

[Bayman]

Originally Posted By: mongo161
I only put about 10-15 minutes, at most, of my time into this procedure.

Remove the old PCV
Place dirty PCV in a small jar
Spray thoughly with brake cleaner
Remove contaminated brake cleaner from the jar
Cover with clean brake fluid
Let it sit for a couple of days...shake a couple of times
Remove the soaked clean PCV valve
Dry off with paper towel or rag
Let PCV Air dry
Put the PCV back in the package or zip lock sandwich bag
store for next use


mongo161, how often do you perform this procedure.

 

[ahoier]

Originally Posted By: Trajan
Originally Posted By: mongo161
Still......there are no pictures of before and after use with Kreen?

Does anyone really use this great product?


Posting about it is all the proof you need. One must not question the Tao of kreen. Or the Tao of mmo for that matter.
Yea....lol. Most people don't like dismantling engines, just to see how "good" the last additive craze works

Just read through the thread, I'm down....sounds like a real good product...and will definitely keep it in mind if I ever find any need for such...but my maintenance dosage(s) of Seafoam, MMO, etc....at each oil change (obviously....not together....all in the same fill!) I can't see "my" engine needing this

More for the "sludgers"......or perhaps as preventative for a "pre owned" purchase.....to flush out the engine before you "move in" and decide to call it "home" hehehe.

Originally Posted By: Not the Autorx Frank
Originally Posted By: HangerHarley
Does KREEN want you to add it to only certain Oils?

I think motor oil is recommended?.
methinks this is a bash on ye' ol' ARX...which seemed to have a list of "recommended oils" to use for the "flush" phase, and another list of recommended oils for the "rinse" phase.....because it was said that "some" oils were "better" at cleaning, than others.....

Then I recall reading a hooplah, about when the new Castrol GTX "SN" formula came up with the "TriShield" - a lot of ARX users seemed to think the coveted "Castrol GTX" had "change formulas" and was no longer "combatible" with the particular ARX cleaning phase.....I was never a big follower, so can not recall specifics....but if I recall, you ran the "clean" or "flush" phase for 1k with a conventional oil (and yes, many suggested Castrol GTX....), then changed out the oil and filter, and would run with another oil for the "rinse" phase.....and could be "ANY" oil...but the biggest thing was no synthetic oil could be used....was said to be "too slippery" and would hinder the ARX cleaning

Anyways...that aside:

Originally Posted By: MaxZX
Tagging onto the Kreen thread with my anectdote... my quart arrived on last Friday. Daughter comes home from school in her 2000 Mitsu Eclipse w/ 4 cylinder motor (and 145k miles). That car has had a ticking at startup and idle since she bought it last year.

Popped the hood, I pour 8 oz into the oil, tell her to fire it up. 30 seconds later she's standing next to me looking at the engine and the ticking stops. She laughed and said thanks. So far, 2 days and about 60 miles later as of this morning, and the ticking has not returned.
How's the car running now....? My first thought, was perhaps the Kreen simply "thinned down" the oil, allowing it to flow better at cold start, which eliminated the tick....how's it running now, presumably "without" Kreen.....?

had a similar "cold start tick" for my Kia's, and Seafoam fixed the "problem"....but, after the 3k seafoam in the crankcase, the tick never came back at cold start....so perhaps it "was" just carbon build up causing the "clatter" or "clicking"....

 

[biodiesel]

I have a 1991 Honda Civic that has some serious oil consumption going on. It burns through a quart about every 800-1000 miles. I would like to give Kreen a try before opening her up and messing with a ring replacement.

How many quart cans would you guys suggest I order to do a thorough cleaning of the motor? What is the recommended dosage and how long do I leave it in the motor before dumping it? The motor is a 1.6L and takes about 3.8 qts total upon oil change.

 

[steve20]

Originally Posted By: biodiesel
I have a 1991 Honda Civic that has some serious oil consumption going on. It burns through a quart about every 800-1000 miles. I would like to give Kreen a try before opening her up and messing with a ring replacement.

How many quart cans would you guys suggest I order to do a thorough cleaning of the motor? What is the recommended dosage and how long do I leave it in the motor before dumping it? The motor is a 1.6L and takes about 3.8 qts total upon oil change.



do a compression test first--then put a vacuum gauge on it-those 2 old school procedures will tell you where to put your money-or keep it in your wallet

 

[electrolover]

Originally Posted By: steve20
Originally Posted By: biodiesel
I have a 1991 Honda Civic that has some serious oil consumption going on. It burns through a quart about every 800-1000 miles. I would like to give Kreen a try before opening her up and messing with a ring replacement.

How many quart cans would you guys suggest I order to do a thorough cleaning of the motor? What is the recommended dosage and how long do I leave it in the motor before dumping it? The motor is a 1.6L and takes about 3.8 qts total upon oil change.



do a compression test first--then put a vacuum gauge on it-those 2 old school procedures will tell you where to put your money-or keep it in your wallet


a compression test before and after would be cool!! i think a piston soak is in order as well!! seems to really help from what i have read here. dont forget about changing the pcv too! and i would probably get 2 cans or more because your gonna need it

 

[Turk]

I poured 12-14 Oz. Kreen in the oil in my Saturn SL-1.

Running for ~800 miles & draining with the Formula Shell 5w-30.

It's definitely peppier now than before the Kreen; hoping to free up the rings some before putting in 5w-30 PP for the cold Winter here in Minnesota.

My thought is hopefully it'll use less PP this Winter with this shot of Kreen in it now...(?)

 

[Bayman]

Is there a particular Oil Filter that should be chosen when using Kreen.

 

[Ken2]

I tried a Kreen treatment in my 200,000 mile turbo Volvo. I was leery of what too much might do to the turbo, so I put in 8 oz. 2000 miles before the oil change, and another 8 oz. 1000 before the oil change. The engine was clean before, and it is clean now. The brown staining on the aluminum casting remains; no problem. My neo magnet drain plug usually has a very small amount of black iron goo on it, but this time it had a much larger quantity--I'm thinking that the Kreen found some crud in a pocket in the engine and cleaned that out. Anyway, all is good.