^At some point, an epiphany is reached when realizing the key is to remove by-product debris and that's it.
Kreen Update
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Originally Posted By: ZZman
Their website makes it clear that this product is not for personal or consumer use.
Is this to get them off the hook if something bad happens?
Good question? I sort of ignore this sort of statement.
Their website makes it clear that this product is not for personal or consumer use.
Is this to get them off the hook if something bad happens?
Good question? I sort of ignore this sort of statement.
I don't think its to "get them off the hook if something bad happens". Non mechanic consumers have some bad habits, over dosing additives is one of them, if a little is good then a lot or even a whole lot more must be better.
They think the pro might be a little more cautious when using the products. JMO.
Originally Posted By: itsslimjim
At some point, an epiphany is reached when realizing the key is to remove by-product debris and that's it.
True my GM 3800 was well varnished and Kreen did remove it but not from the inside of the fibreglass valve covers. They are stained deep into the pores.
As long as there is no varnish on parts that need to operate freely e.g. lifter, cam phasers, tensioners etc some staining is nothing to worry about. Knowing when it is "cosmetic" or detrimental varnish is important.
They think the pro might be a little more cautious when using the products. JMO.
Originally Posted By: itsslimjim
At some point, an epiphany is reached when realizing the key is to remove by-product debris and that's it.
True my GM 3800 was well varnished and Kreen did remove it but not from the inside of the fibreglass valve covers. They are stained deep into the pores.
As long as there is no varnish on parts that need to operate freely e.g. lifter, cam phasers, tensioners etc some staining is nothing to worry about. Knowing when it is "cosmetic" or detrimental varnish is important.
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after read this thread other day, yesterday I saw a truck name Kreen with red letter.
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if a little is good then a lot or even a whole lot more must be better.
If it is good to put a little on, it is better to put more on. The Moron Theory.
if a little is good then a lot or even a whole lot more must be better.
If it is good to put a little on, it is better to put more on. The Moron Theory.
Sure is but it happens all the time. One guy put so much MMO in his tank the thing would hardly run any more.
I overheard one joker at AAP saying how he put 2 qts of flush in the engine and let it run until it started knocking then he knows its clean.
I guess that's why most OTC chemicals are of a concentration to be as idiot proof as possible, but still there's always one who will find a way.
I overheard one joker at AAP saying how he put 2 qts of flush in the engine and let it run until it started knocking then he knows its clean.
I guess that's why most OTC chemicals are of a concentration to be as idiot proof as possible, but still there's always one who will find a way.
too bad they dont ship to CA
I have been following this topic and decided to try Kreen in my Chrysler 440s. I have twin 440s in my boat. One of them has excessive crankcase pressure, thus oil usage. Usually after 8 hours of running at 1900 rpm, the problem engine would use/leak 1 quart of oil. While on vacation, I used Kreen in the crankcase. My hours doubled before I had to add additional oil. I am a very skeptical person and thought this may be 'snake oil.' As of today (9/3), I'm a believer.
Off topic:
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I have twin 440s in my boat. One of them has excessive crankcase pressure, thus oil usage.
I took a new ship out of the shipbuilder that had three 2mW MAK diesel generator engines (2700 hp), straight eight, 32 cm bore (12.6"), 600 rpm. One of these new engines used a LOT of oil. The factory tech checked everything and finally started taking the crankcase venting apart--several hundred feet of 4" pipe. He found one flanged joint where the cardboard cover over the end for cleanliness had not been removed after the pipe left the fabrication shop and was assembled in the ship. Oil consumption dropped to just about nothing after that.
Back to Kreen. I have two engines that burn more oil than they should, a Volvo turbo with 195,000 miles, and a VW V-6 with only 45,000. A thousand miles before the next oil change, I'll put a pint of Kreen in each and see what happens.
Bushwood, do you think the excess crankcase pressure is due to combustion gases blowing by stuck rings? If the Kreen cleans it this time, how will keep them from getting stuck next time? More robust oil? Run them hard periodically?
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I have twin 440s in my boat. One of them has excessive crankcase pressure, thus oil usage.
I took a new ship out of the shipbuilder that had three 2mW MAK diesel generator engines (2700 hp), straight eight, 32 cm bore (12.6"), 600 rpm. One of these new engines used a LOT of oil. The factory tech checked everything and finally started taking the crankcase venting apart--several hundred feet of 4" pipe. He found one flanged joint where the cardboard cover over the end for cleanliness had not been removed after the pipe left the fabrication shop and was assembled in the ship. Oil consumption dropped to just about nothing after that.
Back to Kreen. I have two engines that burn more oil than they should, a Volvo turbo with 195,000 miles, and a VW V-6 with only 45,000. A thousand miles before the next oil change, I'll put a pint of Kreen in each and see what happens.
Bushwood, do you think the excess crankcase pressure is due to combustion gases blowing by stuck rings? If the Kreen cleans it this time, how will keep them from getting stuck next time? More robust oil? Run them hard periodically?
Originally Posted By: bushwood440
I have been following this topic and decided to try Kreen in my Chrysler 440s. I have twin 440s in my boat. One of them has excessive crankcase pressure, thus oil usage. Usually after 8 hours of running at 1900 rpm, the problem engine would use/leak 1 quart of oil. While on vacation, I used Kreen in the crankcase. My hours doubled before I had to add additional oil. I am a very skeptical person and thought this may be 'snake oil.' As of today (9/3), I'm a believer.
Thank you for posting.
I too am a believer in Kreen. Seen it work, and FAST!
I have been following this topic and decided to try Kreen in my Chrysler 440s. I have twin 440s in my boat. One of them has excessive crankcase pressure, thus oil usage. Usually after 8 hours of running at 1900 rpm, the problem engine would use/leak 1 quart of oil. While on vacation, I used Kreen in the crankcase. My hours doubled before I had to add additional oil. I am a very skeptical person and thought this may be 'snake oil.' As of today (9/3), I'm a believer.
Thank you for posting.
I too am a believer in Kreen. Seen it work, and FAST!
Kreen is awesome.Piston soak seems to have strongest almost immediate effect.
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Originally Posted By: Vikas
Do you want piston HOT for the Kreen soak or is cold soak OK? Does it end up in the oil?
The piston soaks I've done are done over a period of a few days, so do it cold. Kreen will flash off in a hot cylinder anyway, remember cylinder temps get very high! Pull the plugs, put in the Kreen let it soak, crank the engine over by the damper pulley if possible every 8 hours or so and refill. Do this over a period of 2 days or more. Then crank the engine over with the starter before reinstalling the plugs. Cover anything you don't want sprayed with Kreen first. Take it for about a 30 minute run and change the oil, it will find its way into the oil. IMO the best time for a piston soak is before an oil change. I'm sure there are other methods, that's how I've done it.
Do you want piston HOT for the Kreen soak or is cold soak OK? Does it end up in the oil?
The piston soaks I've done are done over a period of a few days, so do it cold. Kreen will flash off in a hot cylinder anyway, remember cylinder temps get very high! Pull the plugs, put in the Kreen let it soak, crank the engine over by the damper pulley if possible every 8 hours or so and refill. Do this over a period of 2 days or more. Then crank the engine over with the starter before reinstalling the plugs. Cover anything you don't want sprayed with Kreen first. Take it for about a 30 minute run and change the oil, it will find its way into the oil. IMO the best time for a piston soak is before an oil change. I'm sure there are other methods, that's how I've done it.
Has anyone opened a oil filter to see what impact kreen has on the media, drainback and bypass valves? Many filters use glues, plastics, and silicon rubber. Wondering how they hold up.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Has anyone opened a oil filter to see what impact kreen has on the media, drainback and bypass valves? Many filters use glues, plastics, and silicon rubber. Wondering how they hold up.
No problem with a Mann drop-in filter on my BMW. Had it in while running Kreen for about a 1000 miles. It is glued-no metal.
Has anyone opened a oil filter to see what impact kreen has on the media, drainback and bypass valves? Many filters use glues, plastics, and silicon rubber. Wondering how they hold up.
No problem with a Mann drop-in filter on my BMW. Had it in while running Kreen for about a 1000 miles. It is glued-no metal.
Yes, I opened oil filter after a kreen soak overnight. There was nothing unusual to see. I would not use for the entire OCI though.
anyone got before and after pictures? I found a before and after video on you-tube, but couldnt hear any difference in the running of the engine.
Originally Posted By: hooligan24
anyone got before and after pictures? I found a before and after video on you-tube, but couldnt hear any difference in the running of the engine.
That is my video. There was no noise change since I got this car. Seems it is injector tic on idle. When I shift in first or reverse gear and start going even slow it is gone. I had great, noticeable results with kreen piston soak.
I have no pics yet, I will use it again for next oci(just some leftovers, about 8oz) and then post pics.
anyone got before and after pictures? I found a before and after video on you-tube, but couldnt hear any difference in the running of the engine.
That is my video. There was no noise change since I got this car. Seems it is injector tic on idle. When I shift in first or reverse gear and start going even slow it is gone. I had great, noticeable results with kreen piston soak.
I have no pics yet, I will use it again for next oci(just some leftovers, about 8oz) and then post pics.
The patient: 95 Civic with 205k miles, runs great, burns little oil, but has a nasty tick at cold start-up until warm (piston slap, valve thingy, carbon build-up, who knows?)
I bought a quart of Kreen - I image that will be enough for the little 1.5L with a 3.5qt crankcase.
My plan: Change oil to 10W-30 Supertech with P1 filter (I have a butt-load of these in my stash!)
Add 3oz/qt = 10.5oz of Kreen in total via sparkplug holes and direct fill.
With engine warm, pull plugs, add 1 qt down each hole. Crank motor over by hand a few times.
Add remaining Kreen to crankcase directly.
Later, when the gas tank gets lower, add a few ounces to give a brief but concentrated shot through the fuel system.
Check condition of oil daily and top off with remaining Kreen.
Run this for 1-2k and then drain.
Thoughts?
I bought a quart of Kreen - I image that will be enough for the little 1.5L with a 3.5qt crankcase.
My plan: Change oil to 10W-30 Supertech with P1 filter (I have a butt-load of these in my stash!)
Add 3oz/qt = 10.5oz of Kreen in total via sparkplug holes and direct fill.
With engine warm, pull plugs, add 1 qt down each hole. Crank motor over by hand a few times.
Add remaining Kreen to crankcase directly.
Later, when the gas tank gets lower, add a few ounces to give a brief but concentrated shot through the fuel system.
Check condition of oil daily and top off with remaining Kreen.
Run this for 1-2k and then drain.
Thoughts?
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