Brother just bought a new used car, Kia Rio from 2015. Everything's nice, oil isn't bad almost due - I have an extra bottle of Valvoline Extended Protection 0w20 laying around, would it be any issue? What pros does 5w20 have over 0w20?
Kia 1.6 - 5w20 a must?
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If the 5W20 and the 0W20 are formulated the same, then the narrow grade (5W20) should be more shear stable and have a lower Noack volatility.
In reality the 0W20 is probably formulated with better base stock, like PAO or GTL, meaning they would have similar Noack and shear stability.
They are both xW20 grades, and should behave the same when warm. Obviously the 0Wx oil is better for starting at extreme cold temperatures than the 5Wx (which is still good enough cold starting for most people).
For most people, not starting at -40 in temp., they would be interchangeable.
In reality the 0W20 is probably formulated with better base stock, like PAO or GTL, meaning they would have similar Noack and shear stability.
They are both xW20 grades, and should behave the same when warm. Obviously the 0Wx oil is better for starting at extreme cold temperatures than the 5Wx (which is still good enough cold starting for most people).
For most people, not starting at -40 in temp., they would be interchangeable.
This owners manual (2015 Kia Rio) recommends 5w20/5w30/10w30:
"Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather... When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperature your vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. Proceed to select the recommended oil viscosity from the chart." And the chart lists 5w20/5w30/10w30.
I'd use Quaker State synthetic 5w30 in that engine. Many members over the years said that in Hyundai/Kia 1.6L/2.0L/2.4L engines an OEM oil filter and synthetic Quaker State 5w30 oil ends up being the ideal combo. Less engine noise, no penalty to fuel economy, and good used oil analysis.
P.S. Those owners who wish to keep their cars for "the long haul" go with OEM oil filter and Mobil 1 0w40. For some reason most aftermarket oil filters give some start-up rackety valvetrain noises on Hyundai/Kia, but OEM oil filters keep it quieter.
"Lower viscosity engine oils can provide better fuel economy and cold weather performance, however, higher viscosity engine oils are required for satisfactory lubrication in hot weather... When choosing an oil, consider the range of temperature your vehicle will be operated in before the next oil change. Proceed to select the recommended oil viscosity from the chart." And the chart lists 5w20/5w30/10w30.
I'd use Quaker State synthetic 5w30 in that engine. Many members over the years said that in Hyundai/Kia 1.6L/2.0L/2.4L engines an OEM oil filter and synthetic Quaker State 5w30 oil ends up being the ideal combo. Less engine noise, no penalty to fuel economy, and good used oil analysis.
P.S. Those owners who wish to keep their cars for "the long haul" go with OEM oil filter and Mobil 1 0w40. For some reason most aftermarket oil filters give some start-up rackety valvetrain noises on Hyundai/Kia, but OEM oil filters keep it quieter.
We ran these engines on C3 oil, first 5w40 later 5w30 in hyundais.
Yep in North America they run xW20 in most things, while in Europe they run C3 oils in most things.
While in Australia we would run 10W40 A3/B4 or 15W40 A3/B3 in the exact same cars. It's almost as if it doesn't really matter.
I don't think there is an engine out there, that some specific weight or type of oil, "is a must". Might one serve the purpose a bit better? Perhaps. But I'm convinced that with all of these newer thinner weight oils that are being "recommended" today, most all of them are not only unnecessary, but in some cases, might even be detrimental to a long service life.
I didn't always think that way. However I do now. There is simply too much evidence out there, if you take the time to examine it, that most all of this thin oil is nothing but a result of government mileage standards, (CAFE), being pushed to the max. All with big $$$$ riding on the outcome for the manufacturer.... Not longer engine life for the consumer.
I'll say much the same for these small 2-stroke engines used in the lawn and garden industry. Many are now being "recommended" to be run on 50:1, or even 100:1 mix. When years back the same engine was factory recommended to use 32:1, or even richer oil mix.
All of these ultra thin motor oils are usually contained in the same sentence pushing, "Easier cold weather starting, and better fuel economy". You never hear anyone stating thinner oils will greatly improve engine life under severe conditions. In fact, Toyota's manual suggests the exact opposite by stating, "The use of an oil with greater viscosity, (a higher number), may be better suited for severe use". They can't make it any clearer than that.
I didn't always think that way. However I do now. There is simply too much evidence out there, if you take the time to examine it, that most all of this thin oil is nothing but a result of government mileage standards, (CAFE), being pushed to the max. All with big $$$$ riding on the outcome for the manufacturer.... Not longer engine life for the consumer.
I'll say much the same for these small 2-stroke engines used in the lawn and garden industry. Many are now being "recommended" to be run on 50:1, or even 100:1 mix. When years back the same engine was factory recommended to use 32:1, or even richer oil mix.
All of these ultra thin motor oils are usually contained in the same sentence pushing, "Easier cold weather starting, and better fuel economy". You never hear anyone stating thinner oils will greatly improve engine life under severe conditions. In fact, Toyota's manual suggests the exact opposite by stating, "The use of an oil with greater viscosity, (a higher number), may be better suited for severe use". They can't make it any clearer than that.
How do you feel about Quaker State 5w30 vs Mobil 1 0w30?
Yes let’s have another thick vs. thin argument thread along with the usual misunderstandings about the winter rating.
wemay
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Either one will be just fine. 5w vs 0w is splitting hairs unless you're operating in seriously below freezing temps.
*0W40 is not listed in the Hyundai / Kia OM's for those engines (a good oil though that would probably be ok) . I use a Fram Ultra #9688 in those Hyundai / Kia engines with no start up noise , better filtering and flow than the OEM filter .
The main thing about using a 5W20 spec'd motor oil compared to a 0W20 is that a 5W20 grade of motor oil are available in many versions and you can choose:
*Conventional oil(mainly a blend anyway)
*Synthetic blend oil(mainly a higher % of syn)
*Full Synthetic oil(Group III, IV or V)
Where as a *0W20(0 being the main factor) are *Full Synthetic Oil.
*Oh sure, you may be able to find a 0W20 in a SynBlend but, you'd almost have to search your brain off to find them...and why would anyone want to?
But, if the owner's manual required a 0W20, this really means that the MFG really wants you using a Full Synthetic Oil in that engine...for whatever reason(fuel economy, emissions, internals/VVT etc.)
*Conventional oil(mainly a blend anyway)
*Synthetic blend oil(mainly a higher % of syn)
*Full Synthetic oil(Group III, IV or V)
Where as a *0W20(0 being the main factor) are *Full Synthetic Oil.
*Oh sure, you may be able to find a 0W20 in a SynBlend but, you'd almost have to search your brain off to find them...and why would anyone want to?
But, if the owner's manual required a 0W20, this really means that the MFG really wants you using a Full Synthetic Oil in that engine...for whatever reason(fuel economy, emissions, internals/VVT etc.)
If your brother is also in SoCal, there is virtually no difference between 0w-20 and 5w-20 in the temperature range that car will see.
If your brother is in a region that will see subzero temperatures, 0w-20 will flow marginally better in the cold.
For what it's worth, I have a 2021 Kia Niro 1.6 with a 0w20 recommendation. Windfall of Mobil 5w20 (thanks Walmart
) and I'll be running that with no issue. FL and SoCal are probably very similar in weather so you should have no worries.
None.
5W20 a must? No way. Any brand name 0W20, 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 and 5W40 will work just fine too. In extremely cold climates I'd opt for the 0w-XX oils.
Same here, her 2020 KIA Soul 1.6 Turbo calls for 5w30.
Good to know about the oil filter. As far as 0w40 - it will "be ok" as it is simply a more superior oil in every way. It can go to lower temps, yet still offer better protection in high heat or severe use operation. None of the spec'ed 5w20/5w30/10w30 oils would survive the Porsche A40 test, for example. Yet Mobil 1 can. And it can go the distance for extended oil changes. And it offers more cleaning ability than most oils out there. Only downside I see is it may accelerate carbon build up due to LSPI issues in direct injection engines, by 5%-10%. But that carbon builds up regardless of which oil is used (including those meant for reducing LSPI issues), it's just a matter of time before intake runners and valves need to get a walnut blasting procedure. Having dual injection (direct+port) takes care of that though.
They're both great and I'd use either without hesitation. But on Hyundai/Kia forums I did see a coupe complaints about Mobil 1 0w20-5w30 making the valvetrain just a little more audible at idle and low rpms. (No complaints on Mobil 1 0w40 though) Could be nothing bad, but is alarming to some. Quaker State 5w30/5w40 does tend to quiet things down a little in the valvetrain.
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