I`ve had K&N filter on my last 3 cars, two of them were open filters setup while the one i have now is a direct replacement filter. I like them, i do like the idea of less air restriction and more powerfull engine
Wear resistant.And the aluminum piston?
Wear resistant.
Have you ever optically polished aluminum with loose abrasives? Or is it still about being https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/opinionated
I have, lots of it. So I know what it actually works like not just think I know.
Exactly as planned....This is now officially the "herpes thread" It calms for a while then flares up with little notice.
A little like the Liquimoly thread....This is now officially the "herpes thread" It calms for a while then flares up with little notice.
Have you ever optically polished aluminum with loose abrasives?
Polished how, what was the process? It takes a lot of piston movement in dirty oil to show wear, doesn't it. How many miles of up and down does a piston travel in say 50K? So it is wear resistant. Not wear proof, but probably close if oil is maintained well.I have polished aluminum, and it's soft and very easily abraded ... and it's certainly not "wear resistant" as you claim.
Have you ever tore down an engine and looked at the wear patterns on piston skirts?
Polished how, what was the process? It takes a lot of piston movement in dirty oil to show wear, doesn't it. How many miles of up and down does a piston travel in say 50K? So it is wear resistant. Not wear proof, but probably close if oil is maintained well.
If you read my posts you saw optical polishing. Buffing with metal polish is nothing. It makes it shiny to the eye. I am talking about grinding with particles in suspension, and achieving a matte flat finish to the edges. Going down the grits from 30, 15, 9, and 5 micron keeping the flatness. This takes off very little material. Optical polishing then starts with a 1 micron pre polish then the hard part, the optically flat and smooth surface polish. It's very tricky and it took a process. I used pitch of different kinds with alumina abrasives and adjusting the ph. Or Syton on special hard pads. It is exremely difficult becaue it scratches so easily with any contamination. Flatness and surface quality inder a microspe must be maintained. Flatness measured in fractions of wavelengths of light. It gets much harder when the piece needs to be accurate in dimensions as well, so the final polish comes in exactly at the dimension to whatever tolerance.Aluminum parts are softer than cast iron and are moe prone to wear. You can remove aluminum material easily with something as gental as super fine metal polish. Piston skirts wear more than other parts in an ICE. How many miles a piston travels up/down in 50K miles depends on many factors when you think about it.
It is exremely difficult becaue it scratches so easily with any contamination.
So with all that I think you should be able to say I am correct, for once, that aluminum is wear resistant.
It also is used for cam bearings where the cam is iron, and other places, so maybe it is easier for you to admit it. The fact they make pistons from aluminum alloys to run inside an engine tells you something about wear resistance.
The question was is aluminum wear resistant, and the answer is yes. I didn't say compared to anything else, but it is very wear resistant actually. I only respond here and ruin the thread because you did this. . I was going to let it go and be the better man, but decided no not going to let it happen this time.
I’d go with K&N over stock any day but that’s just me.
I just always prefer K&N they are very high quality and do better in my opinion. I mean it’s hard to mess up an air filter but I just prefer to have better filtration. I haven’t noticed any additional noise with the K&N.May I ask why? On a typical stock engine you are doing nothing more than creating more noise at the cost of poorer filtration. On specific applications like the modified setup @TiGeo operates, there can be at least a performance trade-off; a benefit where the lower filtration performance is offset by an increase in power, but this is not the case with a typical stock setup.
I just always prefer K&N they are very high quality and do better in my opinion. I mean it’s hard to mess up an air filter but I just prefer to have better filtration. I haven’t noticed any additional noise with the K&N.
OVERKILL said:Let's look at the dirt passed and time to restriction limit data.
- The duration of the test was 60 minutes and during that period, the amount of dirt passed by the Donaldson unit was 0.4g.
- The K&N passed 7g of dirt within 24 minutes and hit the restriction limit.
If we break this down to g/minute passed, a simple metric, we can perhaps gather some clearer data comparing the most efficient filter in the test, which also loaded up the slowest, and one of the least efficient.
1. Donaldson PowerCore: 0.0067g/min loading rate
2. K&N oil cotton gauze: 0.2917g/min loading rate
This means the Donaldson is 43.5x more efficient.
Ignoring the loading limit, if we just look at the performance within a 6 hour window:
1. Donaldson PowerCore: 2.4g of dirt passed
2. K&N oiled cotton gauze: 105g of dirt passed
That's a HUGE difference.
The Donaldson would have to be run for 262.5hrs; 11 DAYS to pass the same amount of dirt as the K&N, or, looked at from the other direction, the K&N passes in 8.2 minutes what it takes the Donaldson 6 hours to pass.
I think in the previous 14 pages there's probably some mention of how they're considered bad now because the oil from the filter will end up coating the MAF so you end up with drivability problems later so a regular plain air filter is better. Maybe it was better when you just had more basic engines with a carb.I just always prefer K&N they are very high quality and do better in my opinion. I mean it’s hard to mess up an air filter but I just prefer to have better filtration. I haven’t noticed any additional noise with the K&N.
Never had that experience but that’s interesting. I usually replace them instead of cleaning them too. We see a number of filters that are K&N that come in none of them look majorly dirty as it was saying it is a short period of time for it to get dirty. I thought that they were paper just colored and covered with wire.But they don't have better filtration, they have demonstrably poorer filtration.
Go back to this post in the thread:
Keep K&N or NOT ?
Originally Posted by TiGeo You mean by ~3% less than a paper filter? Did you ever bother reading the actual report that graphic that you so proudly posted come from? Here's a mirrored copy at Nicoclub: https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html You also left out the graphics that...bobistheoilguy.com
My response:
Almost all my cars are carb lol but just from my experience they are better than just a paper one. What type of oil would a filter have in it is my question.I think in the previous 14 pages there's probably some mention of how they're considered bad now because the oil from the filter will end up coating the MAF so you end up with drivability problems later so a regular plain air filter is better. Maybe it was better when you just had more basic engines with a carb.