K+N 225,000 miles - real life

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I think the chances of hydrolocking your engine are remote because you'd have to completely submerge the intake and the engine would have to be revving pretty high to pull up a head of water.

Check out this link:

CAI bypass valve test
 
Well I took the CAI out. I found this article about my truck and decided I want the extra protection.

The air induction system used with all Durango engines is the same as that on Dakota. It minimizes power-robbing airflow restriction. The system consists of a bonnet clamped to the throttle body and a molded duct between the air cleaner housing and the bonnet. Engineers used Computational Fluid Dynamics, a graphic model of induction system airflow, to design the system. The model shows flow regimes - laminar, turbulent and stagnant conditions - and estimates restriction. The final configuration was achieved through fine-tuning of air cleaner housing volume and inlet duct length.
 
The stock air box was a great inovation when it came along.
smile.gif
This remote box system sheilded the filter element and drew air from a safe clean place. Today, there also great "mufflers" as they really reduce intake sound for a nice quality quite engine.

CAI gain power by getting rid of all this and running a pipe straight to your TB. But ya loose all that good stuff!!
 
Just as balance here, I had test vehicles that I ran side-by-sides on: OEM AC and K&N.. One of our K&N equipped vehicles had the pistons rattling in the cylinders at 22,000 miles. The AC equipped, same job, same conditions, went on to 120,000+ miles..
We had to replace the engine in the K&N at 35,000 miles due to oil consumption, etc.. That was worse case: best case K&N had triple the amount of dirt, wear metals compared with AC equipped vehicles..
This was in an extremely dusty environment, worst case scenario...
But, just for balance...
 
quote:

Originally posted by GeorgeCLS:
Just as balance here, I had test vehicles that I ran side-by-sides on: OEM AC and K&N.. One of our K&N equipped vehicles had the pistons rattling in the cylinders at 22,000 miles. The AC equipped, same job, same conditions, went on to 120,000+ miles..
We had to replace the engine in the K&N at 35,000 miles due to oil consumption, etc.. That was worse case: best case K&N had triple the amount of dirt, wear metals compared with AC equipped vehicles..
This was in an extremely dusty environment, worst case scenario...
But, just for balance...


Yuo will probably never see a K@N in any heavy equipment. The owners know better.
 
I am going to call you on that statement GeorgeCLS.

Only because a few friends of mine hit the trails with there K&N equipt dirt bikes and also one of the guys dug out a track down the street from me, and he throws so much dust and dirt that you can see it on a clear day from the next house over.

Although I still dont trust K&N enough to use it, and thats why you see my talking to everyone on this site that mentions it, he has some old dirt bikes and when I was interested in picking one up from him he let me in on the K&N story for the first time, these bikes were caked, and so were the K&N's but they were spotless on the cleaned air end.

I cant imagine any engine, no matter what CFM it pulls through that filter having done so much damage that the pistons were rattling at 22k. We are talking needing some large dirt particles passing for a long time, and being suspended for a very long time, without oil filtration.

If you ask me, you had an engine built on friday just before close in one rig, and monday morning in the other.

I'm not calling you a liar, but you dont feel there was other variables to this failure? We see alot of perfect Silicon levels with K&Ns here.
 
There really isn't much choice on a dirt bike other than gauze or foam. Paper and water don't mix and after the initial hit of dirt, the K&N should work fine but I think that foam should be better at keeping dirt out.

[ July 16, 2005, 03:38 PM: Message edited by: goodvibes ]
 
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