K+N 225,000 miles - real life

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Been reading a bit here and IMHO see alot of problems to be honest. First issue is that cleaning a K+N is usually the last thing you want to do, they work better slightly dirty, thats a proven fact.

Also with all the talk about paper filters, just how good are the paper filters after they get wet a few times? Remember the environment that these things have to work in, I don't see anyone bringing that up.

Anyway - here is my K+N story and Mobil 1 story, and I used to be an engine machinist, so this is coming from that perspective as well. No oil analysis here, true engine measurements after 12 years and 225,000 miles with a bore guage.

My mother bought a 92 Cougar with the V6 new in 1992. I immediately installed a K+N for the stock air box, and used Mobil 1 and Fram oil filters almost its whole life, about 5K between oil changes. Last year she hit the 225,000 mark and the passenger head gasket finally went - a record in its own right for this style V6 Ford but anyway, thats another story.

I pulled the heads, decked them 0.005" and they are perfect. Valve guides still within spec and tight, just needed a clean up on the exhaust seats - I have my own Neways as I still do this on the side. Didn't even need to dress the valve faces, lapped them lightly and the seal was perfect.

Looking at the block since the heads were off, noticed zero ridge visually, and actually 80% of the cross hatch is still in the cylinder walls. Setup my bore gauge to read the taper, less than 0.001" on the worst bore.

The car uses about 1/4 of a quart of oil between 5K changes currently. The inside of the engine is near spotless other than discoloration from 225,000 miles of use. Zero sludge, very slight varnish coloration here and there is it.

The K+N was deep cleaned once at about 100,000. Otherwise it was never cleaned other than bouncing it against something to knock the large chunks of debris off, this I learned from the dirt track guys. Washing these things out most times causes more harm than good I was taught. Considering this engine went over 200,000 miles and the actual bore measurement is within 0.001" of stock, I would dare say that the K+N the way it was used here does not cause ANY engine wear in and of itself. I do have the opinion that these things once installed need to be left alone other than a once in awhile knock to dislodge whatever will fall off. Basically leave the impregnated oil alone.

I didn't know better about the Fram oil filters at the time, I do use the Purolator Pure One now, but I have to admit that the Fram didn't cause any problems here either.

The car still gets about the same mileage as before, but the rest of the car is starting to fall apart, stuff like the interior, power windows, etc.

My current ride is a 97 Dakota with 155,000 miles and the same thing as above, though I have not pulled it apart. The K+N is black colored from the dirt as it has NEVER been deep cleaned, the truck uses 1/4 of a quart at the 6K mark, the oil is changed around 10K now, and the power and gas mileage are the same as new, and this thing was abused a bit with towing and the like. I don't know what the current bore wear is exactly, and I don't see a need to pull it apart anytime soon if you know what I mean.

So those are my findings. I think most of us (me included) just have to fiddle with things too much, and with K+N air filters, and synthetic oil, they are both so far advanced, that leaving them alone is usually better. The recent SAE paper on increased engine wear with 3K oil changes come to mind, I have not read the paper but in my opinion there is the same issue as the K+N or any media filter for that matter, you need some dirt to plug the larger holes, then the filter itself as a whole becomes more effective. This would infer that there is really a sweet spot for these to be most effective, and it is not when the filter is new......

Another trick I learned only recently is to install a remote mount oil filter inline with the PCV valve and the intake manifold. The engine while at idle and cruise actually gets most of its air from the PCV, not from the air filter directly. My 440 in my hotrod sucks so much oil through the PCV at high RPM this was the only solution to keep oil out of the intake. It works awesome on street stuff too, you just use the same oil filter as what the car uses, and when you change the oil, you then use this filter for the oil and install the new oil filter for the PCV, no waste, no fuss.

After reading through here IMHO alot of you are really into your oil stuff, a bit too much for me
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, but it proved that the same 10W30 Mobil One I started using 15 years ago is still the best to use today for most street stuff, and I thank you
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But this talk of K+N causing engine wear, I did not see it myself, and that was found with the best test of all, a Mitutoyo (SP?) bore gauge in the bore after enough street miles over 12 years for the rest of the car to fall apart first.

I know some will read this and say BS, that is the way of the internet, to each his own. But at least ask yourself before you bash K+N and the like, have you had a chance to get inside an engine run the same way for so long to effectively rule out all the other variables that happen from one oil analysis to the next? And just what are you trying to achieve in the end anyway?

IMHO - intall a K+N, and leave it alone, use Mobil One with a good filter, keep the anitfreeze clean and fresh, and you won't have any problems related to these items whatsoever, and that is about the best you can expect anyway.

Let the flames and critics begin
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Nice information. I actually have a K & N is my 93 Sentra. I put it in, had doubts, and took it out several times. Now I think I just won't worry about it, and let it get dirty.
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The car is performing better with it in. Thanks for the info!
 
No flame or criticism, but to me it is a matter of degrees. Paper filters for most of my cars are app 8-10 dollars. My Vette has a paper filter with 40k change recommendation so 6-7 filters is what I will need for 250,000 miles. UOA's have confirmed the paper filters better.

The newer problem is the MAF's do not take kindly to any mineral oil coating that either gets on the innards of the intake or line the MAF. Also I really do not like to have to clean and reoil the element

In addition, given a few UOA's the K & N filter allows more silicon in the oil. Plus I have been used to doing 15,000 miles vs your 5k OCI . So the real question (which you have answered) is it statistically significant? In your real world no. But then again you do not have any quantifiable data say 20 silicon vs 10 silicon, or an A/B comparison to see what the real rates are.

So to me it is a case of taking a serious of small steps to help the systems last longer. One to me is letting the least amount of silicon in the oil as possible. So I have been using oem or replacement air filters. But I agree with you, since I have taken a TLC to app 250,000 miles, the mechanics that did the valve adjustments indicated there was almost NO measurable wear at all with Mobil One 5w30 !! Again, I also ran the PH8A FRAM filter.

[ February 02, 2005, 05:45 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
 
The heck with the filter you just put up one extreamly positive plug for Mobil One. I want to see a dino lubed motor with that little wear on it.

I pulled the heads, decked them 0.005" and they are perfect. Valve guides still within spec and tight, just needed a clean up on the exhaust seats - I have my own Neways as I still do this on the side. Didn't even need to dress the valve faces, lapped them lightly and the seal was perfect.

Looking at the block since the heads were off, noticed zero ridge visually, and actually 80% of the cross hatch is still in the cylinder walls. Setup my bore gauge to read the taper, less than 0.001" on the worst bore.

The car uses about 1/4 of a quart of oil between 5K changes currently. The inside of the engine is near spotless other than discoloration from 225,000 miles of use. Zero sludge, very slight varnish coloration here and there is it.
 
I don't doubt your results at all. Lots of commercial equipment manuals state not to change the air filter too frequently.

I'd like to know more about your oil filter PCV setup! Does it really catch all the oil vapor? I've seen catch can setups that fill up with oil and have to be drained on a bi monthly basis!
 
The oil filter PCV is easy really. I was first using a fuel filter on the PCV line to try and keep the oil out of the intake, that didn't work.

I had a tranny remote mount filter that is just like an engine remote mount filter other than it already has 3/8" nipples. Installed a Pure One 30001, and wallah, the line from the filter to the intake was finally dry.

Check out www.summitracing.com for # 1028 from TRD. About $13 I think, then go to Home Depot and get the brass adaptor for the holes (I think 1/2" NPT?) to 3/8" hose, get a long length of 3/8" fuel hose (I buy the 50 foot roll of Goodyear at Summit also as it is super cheap and good quality there).

You can place this filter anywhere you can find space since it doesn't get hot. Mine is hidden in a space beside the battery.

As easy as that, and really nice if you can get the adaptor to work with the same oil filter your engine uses. Then you use the new filter on the PCV line, and move it to the oil filter at the next oil change.

When the engine is cold, you can feel the filter get cold from the amount of air running through it. The older the engine - the more the blowby, the better this will help. It won't help very much on a new engine unless you have a situation like mine where the valve cover baffles suck and you can't do too much about it. Most newer cars have good designed baffles OEM and don't really need it, but then the people reading this site are well, lets just say a bit more concerned and leave it at that
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quote:

Originally posted by ALS:
The heck with the filter you just put up one extreamly positive plug for Mobil One. I want to see a dino lubed motor with that little wear on it.




There are plenty of OM 616 and OM 617 Mercedes turbodiesels with hundreds of thousands of miles, run their whole life on HDEO, in w123 mercedes cars that exhibit this.

JMH
 
quote:

Another trick I learned only recently is to install a remote mount oil filter inline with the PCV valve and the intake manifold.

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That's ingenious!

quote:

I was first using a fuel filter on the PCV line to try and keep the oil out of the intake, that didn't work.

Did it plug up? I attached a cheap $2 FF recently purchased at Autozone in line with the PCV valve. Use M1 exclusively & rather not have the $5/quart stuff get burned by the engine.
 
Let me comment on some of the above:

First MAF sensors, I have never seen a MAF go bad from a properly oiled K+N. Now if the K+N is dripping wet, then yes there will be a problem, actually many problems. But you will not see this with the factory impregnation level. The K+N's worst enemy is the user constantly fiddling with it, deep cleaning it, oiling it, thinking it filters as good as paper when clean so they keep it clean, etc.

Yes paper filters filter better when new, cost less per piece, and that is all they are better at that I have seen. Once you get to the 10K mark, I do believe its a different story. From what I learned and I had to change my thinking too, a K+N once dirty flows and filters about the same as a new paper, but the K+N will stay near the same for near its entire life as long as you knock off the large stuff that gets on the outside periodically. Get into some dirt track racing forums to learn about air filters and true issues. They in a race probably equal 20K miles of average dirt clogging street driving.

As far as buying a K+N for flow ability, if the filter itself is the restriction, you need a larger airbox and filter - plain and simple. Getting into discussions over filter flow is pointless IMHO as the filter should be large enough to not be the cause of the restriction given its intended environment and maintainance requirements (lifespan).

If you want to test your air filter flow on your car it is the easiest test that you can do. Buy a vacuum guage, mount a nipple anywhere between the air filter and the throttle bore, and when you can get a reading change of say 1" between a dirty and clean filter at maximum RPM, then its time to either clean or replace the filter. Cleaning or replacing before this is a waste of time and money, and thats 100% fact.

You could even push this farther and use 0.5" as the criteria if you wanted, but this is a real test that cannot lie, its that easy, and you can do it for cheap on all of your cars if you wanted too.

I too now am going to 10K and higher oil changes as I am only now confident in both the oil and the filter lasting this long. Paying as much to test the oil as to do another change did not make sense to me. Now with a few gallons of Delvac I could understand testing, but the average 4~5 quarts and a $3 filter? I changed the oil.

I am looking at installing a Sytem 1 combined with a bypass filter from Amsoil, this system (and others like it) might be the best yet for the environment. The reusable System 1 is cleaned pretty easily but doesn't filter super fine, and the bypass can sit until clogged (when it doesn't get warm anymore) which I think would be many miles in my engines.

Really I see no point in throw away air and oil filters anymore if we can get around it. The Amsoil bypass being the only throw away in the future if I can fit it.

The oil filter on PCV only filters the air going into the PCV, I don't know exactly how much of the vapor it can catch, but whatever is coming out of it is surely no worse than what was going in.

When I used the fuel filter first to stop the oil, the oil just went right through it and the line leading to the carb was always wet on the inside. Only when I did the oil filter trick was it able to dry this line out. I think the fuel filter won't stop the oil coming through it unless it was large like a marine fuel filter, which in essence is an oil filter with different (finer) media. If you pull off the PCV hose closest to the intake, see if there is any trace of oil, if so my trick will help you, if not then you don't need it at this point.

Also - I didn't really intend to plug Mobile One, I also feel that Amsoil is just as good and capable, one race engine shop I was at that was all that was used. But Mobile One has a few advantages for everyday people:

You can get it at nearly any store that has some auto parts for sale

The price is right when you do need that quick quart yesterday.

And Mobil will not let that name recognition get tarnished in any way, even with the group 3 fiasco. You can always depend that even though the formula gets updated over time, they are still making it the best they can, given the specifications they have to meet for that time.

As far as silicone in the oil, how do you rule out the silicone used in the gaskets and valve seals that the oil is constantly washing over? The silicone in the oil filter itself? Thats the problem I see with reading too deep into oil analysis, you need to be able to rule out that EVERYTHING else has zero effect to find one culprit, and that can be hard to do outside of a controlled lab.
 
quote:

Originally posted by nickmckinney:
My mother bought a 92 Cougar with the V6 new in 1992. I immediately installed a K+N for the stock air box, and used Mobil 1 and Fram oil filters almost its whole life...

How was the engine driven during it's life? Gently, hard, city, highway, etc?

A recent review of a SAE paper here revealed that most of the wear was on the piston rings during cold starts and high BMEP cylinder pressures, whereas the measured cylinder bore rate at steady state and high speed, high load operating conditions once initial and cold start break-in is complete, is low.

Thusly, maybe the ring wear was effected, not the cylinder bore wear?
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But in the grand scream of things, 225K miles and going strong is still above average. I credit the well maintained engine, lubrication system, and quality lubricant.

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Bravo Nick, and may I say that I'm glad to see somebody else here that thinks the K&N filter is a good design. I've been using them pretty much exclusively for the past 15 years and have always had excellent results with them. My 94 Nissan truck currently has 135K miles on it, 70K of those on a K&N, and it runs now as good as when I bought it 5 years ago. My wifes 05 Mazda3 will get one as soon as I install a CAI (cold air intake) on it next month.

Neat idea about the inline PCV filter thing, I may have to try that myself if I get the motivation.

Also,
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to BITOG!
 
I've been reading with interest the debate and tests conducted on air filters and motor oils. I'm always paranoid about dirty oil so I use Mobil 1 and always have. I got paranoid in the early 80's about filtration and performance and started using the K&N filter. My first car was a 73 Vega with an air filter that had a replacement recommendation of 50,000 miles. Unfortunately the car disintergrated before then and doesn't count. But my 84 Fiero GT had synthetic oil and a K&N. Changed the oil every 3,000 ( I'm paranoid) and had over 273,000 when I got rid of it. My 88 Beretta GT got Mobil 1 and a K&N and I commuted from Easton PA to NYC every day and back. Thats through New Jersey so you know the airs full of strange stuff like dirt and other things...had 373,000 miles on it when I got rid of it. It actually only used about 1/4 qt between changes too. Both these engines were 2.8 V6. Something went right in both these cars. I don't think there's a question about synthetic oil vs. dino stuff...I was always under the impression that a dirty K&N is the better filtration...I thought...'ok, oil will in fact trap dirt and anything else floating by'... and I see nothing but K&N filters or something similar on all these racing cars, both dirt and track...why would they? Now, I am paranoid and I don't ever want anything to go wrong with my engine but now I'm really confused. Is there a once and for all test out there that will put this issue to rest...No offense Anthony, I think you did a great job but what if you did use a dirty K&N? Wanna give it a shot? It'll answer alot of questions.
 
I also don't doubt your results but if your usind a K&N for performance, you won't get the most flow when it's that dirty. There's always trade offs. As for oiling a K&N properly. I made the mistake of putting a brand new factory oiled one in my car and it coated my MAF. I should have checked it but thought K&N would get it right.
 
I'm just wondering what the real high end car makers like porche and the italians use. You would think they're sold on something, I mean I read that the 60W synthetic oil that Lamborghini demands is used in their cars cost $60.00 a quart. I wonder what type of air filter they use... I know all the big after market builders of vettes and mercedes use K&Ns..at least thats what I see in my Car and Drivers...This is really pretty tough.
 
The engine saw an average life, 5 days a week going to work about 10 miles each way, church and shopping on Sundays, a few trips to upstate NY, etc. A good typical mix, nothing out of the ordinary.

Yes bore wear is greatly dependant on temperature too. Usually when you hear "rings are worn out" is that the bore wears more at the top of the piston travel than at the bottom, it actually tapers down smoothly back to the original size at the very bottom. The rings have to flex alot at this stage to seat up against the varying diameter, and that is what kills them. Kind of a chicken and egg, they are both related problems to each other.

Another point, this is in Florida too, so super cold effects are not part of the equation for this engine. Theory would state more wear when colder, but I cannot comment from direct experience.

Again I will state, quit nitpicking a dirty filter not flowing enough, it is not that black and white.
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Like I said, take a pressure reading of the air between the filter and the throttle body, if you see a vacuum difference when dirty, then your filter is affecting your engine's performance. If not, then you are worring and nitpicking over entirely NOTHING!

A properly ***SIZED*** air filter just will not restrict - or it is not properly sized to begin with - and that is the issue. Ever wonder why the filter is so much larger than the throttle bore?
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If a filter flows 10,000 CFM clean and 1000CFM dirty, then 99.9% of the cars on this list would never know the difference, even though the filter is 90% clogged! It is only when the element causes a pressure drop that any of this air flow nonsense means anything - and I don't see too many people studying that like they study the pressure drop of an oil filter - when in effect they are both fluids being filtered and act almost identical
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quote:

Originally posted by nickmckinney:

But this talk of K+N causing engine wear, I did not see it myself, and that was found with the best test of all, a Mitutoyo (SP?) bore gauge in the bore after enough street miles over 12 years for the rest of the car to fall apart first.

I know some will read this and say BS, that is the way of the internet, to each his own. But at least ask yourself before you bash K+N and the like, have you had a chance to get inside an engine run the same way for so long to effectively rule out all the other variables that happen from one oil analysis to the next? And just what are you trying to achieve in the end anyway?

...

Let the flames and critics begin
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Not from this old cowboy. I appreciate your position, I just don't agree.

I took the K&N out of my Avalanche because I could discern no tangible benefit such as increased MPG or performance, and thus the potential issue of increased dirt induction was not worth it.

For me, the only benefit I can see with the K&N's would be you don't replace them as often, and you could save a few bucks. In my view, this is not worth the potential downside risk. I have never seen a paper air filter of mine become wet contaminated, probaly because I don't change the stock airbox.

I know, you see it differently, and have an experience to rely on.

One problem with anedoctal evidence is the number of variables between each scenario and how that translates from one to the other? An analagous situation is AMSOIL's four ball wear scar test - what does that mean in the real world?

I have no doubt that the vehicle you are talking about ran exactly the way you have described. The question then becomes does that mean if I run a different engine, with different oil and filters, under different conditions, will the results be the same, i.e., an engine going 225K miles, if I run a K&N air filter?

The only test or example I have ever seen that approximates the scientific model is SPICER'S air filter flow and dirt test. The results speak volumes, as it were.

Just my 0.2ppm.

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Bob W.

Furor: n. A general commotion; public disorder or uproar. [Middle English furour, wrath, fury, from Old French fureur, from Latin furor, from furere, to rage.]
 
No problemo el furor

I understand about running the stock paper air filters, I can see and understand the arguments for them, especially on the newer cars that use a flat panel setup which does keep the element alot safer.

The question you asked about K+N and different oils and filters giving the same bore wear if in a different car. Well if you analyse what I posted, the K+N is effectively ruled out, completely I might add (as is the Mobile One), from creating or assisting in engine wear, in and of itself, in my test at 225,000 miles as the less than 0.001" bore measurement taper is actually within manufacturing tolerances for this engine.

Now if there was wear, the question becomes was it the K+N or was it the Mobile One that did not work? This is an example that shows both items worked exactly as they were advertised, as they are both in effect ruled out from creating wear, as a result of the bore measurement and tolerance still meeting factory new manufacture specs.

The only other test mule I have is my truck, as it was bought new and had the same treatment of Mobile One and K+N for its entire life, and thus the entire history is known. One day a few years from now I will hopefully post its findings. It was worked quite a bit more than the car as it towed alot, and only holds 4 quarts of oil, so there is a chance for more wear. One day I hope to find out.

I too agree that and have stated that if you find a difference running a new K+N in place of an identical sized paper filter, then your old air filter was either too small or clogged.

If that 4 ball bearing test you are describing is the same nonsense I saw on the TV infomercials for Pro Lube and the like back in the day, then it really has no place in engine oil testing IMHO. The reason for this is that the first thing to get into trouble from a complete loss of oil film would be the crankshaft, and the bearings it rides in are not hard steel but are very soft comparitively. The older non roller camshafts actually has the highest contact pressure like this and would be closest to this test, but once these cams are broken in it is very very rare that a loss in oil pressure takes out the cam before the crankshaft bearings. Usually a spun crank bearing and a blackened connecting rod are the result of lost oil film.

PS - I would also agree that using paper filters would still have allowed this engine to have gone 225,000 miles with no difference in engine wear from the K+N. I just would have been using the 22nd replacement at the time of the measurement give or take a couple.
 
I had K&N in 4 different cars over the years I noticed NO gains. I kept on buying them becuase I thought it would be better to save money and clean them myself.
If K&N worked like K&N says. Car makers would adopt or purchase the technolgy and make them standard in cars or even an accesories you can buy in the parts dept.
Instead k&N relies on marketing similar Prolong, the FUEL magnet,and many other products that dont do what they claim.
Im not saying K&n does not work good but it does not work better than a stock filter.
 
quote:

Originally posted by nickmckinney:
The question you asked about K+N and different oils and filters giving the same bore wear if in a different car. Well if you analyse what I posted, the K+N is effectively ruled out, completely I might add (as is the Mobile One), from creating or assisting in engine wear, in and of itself, in my test at 225,000 miles as the less than 0.001" bore measurement taper is actually within manufacturing tolerances for this engine.


This is where I think we take different interpretive paths, as it were. When there are multiple variables it is always a problem in deciding what factor or factors control, at least IMHO.

One issue I see in the analysis is what kind of driving did she do? What kind of weather and air conditions, etc.? Was it a dusty environment or not?

Without a set of defined parameters it will always a problem to determine why and how you were able to get those many miles.

Of course, in the end the results are the results, and I would never be heard to complain about getting this many miles from a vehicle. And, it is always encouraging to see that routine and quality maintenance really does make a difference.

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Bob W.

Furor: n. A general commotion; public disorder or uproar. [Middle English furour, wrath, fury, from Old French fureur, from Latin furor, from furere, to rage.]
 
I would say mostly non dusty conditions for the first 180,000 or so. Typical urban Miami Ft Lauderdale Florida region.

The last 5 years have been really harsh as there are roughly (no exxagerating) 3000 new homes and condos being built within a 1 miles range of her house - she lives next to a large university now that is expanding exponentially. There is always a large amount of free sand in the air box on the dirty side of the filter lately.

Now about engine wear, what I learned in the machine shop business is that most wear is from.....guess.......guess.........

.........problems with the coolant.

Yes I said coolant, no bs. Either the engine overheated and warped the heads, which also warps the cam bores if an overhead cam, or the thermostat was stuck open, and the engine super sludged because it never was hot enough.

A cold engine has significantly higher bore wear as well - just because of the temperature itself.

Oil and air filter type problems you just didn't see anymore after about the late 80's, especially with the 3K mile oil change marketing being so successfully. I got out of the engine business because it became a dozen a day aluminum head valve job business. That is all that was needed to be worked on anymore. When the boring bar starts collecting rust, well you know the rest.

Another issue I see with the oil testing, you should also have the last batch of fuel tested that the engine is running on to rule out anything found there affecting what you see in the oil.
 
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