JWS 3309 for Volvo, called 3 places, got 3 answers

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coachditka

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I'm posting this in the ATF section since it's specific.

2007 XC90 V8 AWD 120k, not sure if the transmission has ever been serviced. It requires the infamous 3309 spec fluid.

Reputable Volvo indie shop #1 says they do a full fluid exchange using the BG machine with Valvoline Maxlife. They say they have used it for years and never had any issues. Quoted $250 including reprogram of computer if needed. This is a Volvo only shop with a solid reputation.

Reputable Volvo indie shop #2 actually told me to call their transmission specialist because this V8 AWD setup can be a PITA. Called that shop and they said they recommend a spill and fill of 8 qts of 3309 for $125.00. I got a little nervous when the guy on the phone started talking about a "22 point inspection and road test to see if there are any other problems."

My go to local general mechanic told me that they use the BG service and fluid that is 3309 compatible. He said he would not use any additives except the cleaner and there have never been any problems. About $250 for that service. He also said I could get my fluid of choice and they would do a full exchange for $100.00

Also local Volvo dealer charges $400 for a full ATF exchange. They use the BG machine, but not sure of the fluid. I'll ask tomorrow when we pick it up for an AC repair.


I've never really been torn ATF before. I can order the Mobil 3309 fluid from Amazon, or I can go get some Amsoil ATF which I have never had a issue with. I have read some of the threads here about the 3309 ATF and there is really no clear consensus.

So I'm opening this can of worms again.
 
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Open away...

But you know the Mobil meets it...Mobil likely made the factory fill. So use that, it's cheaper than the other offered alternatives and you're certain it meets spec.

That will leave you enough $$ to do it again in 30,000 miles...

For peace of mind, call your local Toyota dealer and see what they'll charge you for a case of T-IV. Ask for a discount. With taxes and shipping - it might be cheaper.
 
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Originally Posted By: Astro14
Open away...

But you know the Mobil meets it...Mobil likely made the factory fill. So use that, it's cheaper than the other offered alternatives and you're certain it meets spec.

That will leave you enough $$ to do it again in 30,000 miles...

For peace of mind, call your local Toyota dealer and see what they'll charge you for a case of T-IV. Ask for a discount. With taxes and shipping - it might be cheaper.


I can get the 3309 from Amazon for $5.25 a quart with free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Mobil-55221-Automa...eywords=jws3309
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Open away...

But you know the Mobil meets it...Mobil likely made the factory fill. So use that, it's cheaper than the other offered alternatives and you're certain it meets spec.

That will leave you enough $$ to do it again in 30,000 miles...

For peace of mind, call your local Toyota dealer and see what they'll charge you for a case of T-IV. Ask for a discount. With taxes and shipping - it might be cheaper.


I agree with Astro14. Flush with Mobil 3309 every 30k.
 
I'd just drain and fill every 30k with m1 at that price.

no need to "flush"


maybe do 2 drain and fills a few days apart if you think its dirty.
 
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"22 point inspection" is something nearly every repair shop does. They need to find as many things as possible that need repair or maintenance.

I'd use Maxlife because I find no problems when using it in T-IV applications.

I'm surprised that none of those shops are selling a transfer case and rear differential fluid change. Those are 2 important things to do in order to get a 4WD/AWD vehicle last a long time.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
"22 point inspection" is something nearly every repair shop does. They need to find as many things as possible that need repair or maintenance.

I'd use Maxlife because I find no problems when using it in T-IV applications.

I'm surprised that none of those shops are selling a transfer case and rear differential fluid change. Those are 2 important things to do in order to get a 4WD/AWD vehicle last a long time.


Yea, the "inspection" seems to be a code for find stuff to fix. Reading online reviews of transmission shops is scary. They seem to find a problem with everything that comes in.

I'll ask about the t-case and diff. This is our first AWD, so I'm not so sure about some things. That's why BITOG rules.
 
Good news is Volvo dealer said they replaced the rear differential at 98k with the previous owner, so all fluid was replaced then. No worries about that.

I asked the service mgr about the ATF. They said if it had never been done and there is over 100k on the car to leave it alone. They said it can open the tranny up to issues. At least they were honest.

They did say a drain and fill would likely be ok but said if there are no issues, do nothing.
 
lots of folks will agree with that, as it is common lore. many do not, and have good reason to.

If you want the car to last the longest time possible, change it. If it reveals any problems, they were already there. If you just want to get to 150k, you are most likely safe to leave it alone.

Me, I would change it. And I would favor a synthetic over the 3309/T-IV. If you are on the fence, consider a drain/fill, as it is a gentler (ie, incomplete, only gets 1/3 of it or so) way of changing fluids, and then do it again if 15-30k.

good luck!
 
Valvoline Maxlife is recommended where 3309 was spec'ed.

Mobil 1 ATF is no longer recommended where 3309 was spec'ed. It used to be, but ExxonMobil no longer recommends it.

I'd do a flush & total replacement. If you're leery of the idea, just do the drain & refill, and do it again for the next four or five oil changes. It'll help extend the life of the transmission.
 
Use the Mobil 3309 dino based ATF, and do a couple drain and fills.

Stay away from synthetic fluid if the tranny has not had the fluid changed during its lifetime.

Newer technology is NOT always better for OLDER cars. That can be the case with synthetic ATF fluid. If your car had dino based fluid keep using it, the engineers that designed the unit didn't spec it for synthetic fluid.
 
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I had an older S40 that spec'd 3309. At 85k I dumped in a bottle of Auto-Rx and ran it for 3k miles (color changed from dark red to dark black - not to start a thread war on the Auto-Rx merrits, just that the trans fluid was DARK). I then did a full cooler hose flush with Redline D4. Never had any issue, even though it was 'high milage' with a full flush.
 
Use 3309.

Change it now, if never changed before, change it again in 10k.

Then every 30k thereafter.
 
I ordered a case of Mobil 3309 from Amazon.

I'm going to start with a basic drain and fill. Measure what drains out and replace with that amount. Repeat in 10k. No additives, no cleaners.
 
Originally Posted By: Volvohead
Use 3309.

Change it now, if never changed before, change it again in 10k.

Then every 30k thereafter.


I like this approach.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Mobil 3309 arrived yesterday. I had to order a special 17mm hex drain tool so I can remove the ATF drain plug. I found a great how to drain and fill over at the Sweedespeed forums.

I'm glad I have a use for all these Torx sockets now!
 
Just to follow up....

I have done 3 drain and fills over the past 6000 miles. The first drain the fluid was so black and just horrible. No way I was going to wait much longer. Drove for a week with a long road trip and did another drain and fill. Fluid was still pretty nasty.

Third drain and fill much better. Fluid looked about 75%.

The transmission only holds 7 qts. So I've used 9 in the drain and fills. Also added half a bottle of Lubegard red to the last fill.

Transmission shifts smoothly now. The somewhat harsh 2-1 downshift has almost gone completely.

So I'm pretty confident in the transmission for lots of miles.

I really do love this car. It's just a rolling 5000 pound safety cage. It's the antithesis of a minivan and that's why my wife loves it.

You stay classy, San Diego...


.
 
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