Just started to change my own oil
- Thread starter OilyBear
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: John_K
I trust I do it right.
To quote Red Green...
"If you take your car in to be fixed, you don't know what idiot will be working on it. If you do it yourself, you know for sure!"
I trust I do it right.
To quote Red Green...
"If you take your car in to be fixed, you don't know what idiot will be working on it. If you do it yourself, you know for sure!"
Good choice on oil filters.
My choice would be PP or Q Horsepower. Both show nice add packs.
Buy oil by the jug at Walmart and save some cash.
You might run one oil change with MMO or Rislone in it to see if that helps with the ticking.
My choice would be PP or Q Horsepower. Both show nice add packs.
Buy oil by the jug at Walmart and save some cash.
You might run one oil change with MMO or Rislone in it to see if that helps with the ticking.
Well, I'm going to buck the trend here. Quick-lube places do serve an important function for the motoring public. We're a select, minority group here that know what we are doing - most people don't. If there weren't QL places, a LOT of cars would simply go without an oil change. I'd rather see a QL place used, than see a car die a slow, sludgy death.
Even for folks that know how to do it, there are sometimes 'circumstances' that make it impossible for them to DIY oil. A lot of folks these days live in cond/apartment complexes - ever seen how restrictive the 'parking lot' clauses are on those? Technically, I'm not allowed to open the hood of my car at mine, and most folk don't. Again, QL save the butt of people in this situation.
And finally, the whiney aspect - there are some cars that are just darn hard to change oil on. It's not worth the fight. My 2002 Cavalier is one of them. 20 minutes in a quick lube bay vs. 1-2 hours fighting to get the filter out from behind the engine and above the tranny pan? Forget it - I'll end up putting a tire iron through the windshield.
For these reasons, I use a trusted, local QL place. They even catch UOA samples for me. Works pretty darn good for me!
Even for folks that know how to do it, there are sometimes 'circumstances' that make it impossible for them to DIY oil. A lot of folks these days live in cond/apartment complexes - ever seen how restrictive the 'parking lot' clauses are on those? Technically, I'm not allowed to open the hood of my car at mine, and most folk don't. Again, QL save the butt of people in this situation.
And finally, the whiney aspect - there are some cars that are just darn hard to change oil on. It's not worth the fight. My 2002 Cavalier is one of them. 20 minutes in a quick lube bay vs. 1-2 hours fighting to get the filter out from behind the engine and above the tranny pan? Forget it - I'll end up putting a tire iron through the windshield.
For these reasons, I use a trusted, local QL place. They even catch UOA samples for me. Works pretty darn good for me!
Originally Posted By: addyguy
...there are some cars that are just darn hard to change oil on. It's not worth the fight. My 2002 Cavalier is one of them. 20 minutes in a quick lube bay vs. 1-2 hours fighting to get the filter out from behind the engine and above the tranny pan?
I've found that the dealerships around here are actually cheaper than the Quick Lube places and have always been happy to use whatever oil I take in. I got out of Toyota one time for under $20 because I provided a filter that I purchase intending to do it myself. I don't remember what changed my mind.
I don't know how similar a 2002 Cavalier is to a 1998 Sunfire, but I think I know what you're talking about. The filter was designed to be reached from the bottom and on a lift. Ramps might have made it easier, but I don't have any. Thankfully, I have a long skinny arm and could reach down along the firewall and just reach the filter. I would turn it off and drop it into the pan below because I could never figure out how to hang on to it on the way up (sort of the hand in the cookie jar problem). I was able to put the new one in from the top and just had to feel for the right spot to screw it on. Using a taller filter made it easier. The first time was about an hour and the last time before it died was probably 15 minutes of time not counting how long I let it drain. A shorter or fatter arm would have made things horribly difficult.
As for this thread, I would suggest finding an oil that your comfortable with in all three cars. This makes keeping a "stash" of oil simple. A couple of quarts will cover everything. I use the same filter on me 04 Sequoia V8 as I do my 89 4Runner 4cyl, but since the Sequoia gets driven about 10:1 with a lot of highway miles I'm planning to run different oils so I can go for a long OCI.
Pennzoil Platinum is a great synthetic, I was impressed with Castrox GTX Blend in my wifes late 90's Cavalier or any brand name conventional would work as well.
...there are some cars that are just darn hard to change oil on. It's not worth the fight. My 2002 Cavalier is one of them. 20 minutes in a quick lube bay vs. 1-2 hours fighting to get the filter out from behind the engine and above the tranny pan?
I've found that the dealerships around here are actually cheaper than the Quick Lube places and have always been happy to use whatever oil I take in. I got out of Toyota one time for under $20 because I provided a filter that I purchase intending to do it myself. I don't remember what changed my mind.
I don't know how similar a 2002 Cavalier is to a 1998 Sunfire, but I think I know what you're talking about. The filter was designed to be reached from the bottom and on a lift. Ramps might have made it easier, but I don't have any. Thankfully, I have a long skinny arm and could reach down along the firewall and just reach the filter. I would turn it off and drop it into the pan below because I could never figure out how to hang on to it on the way up (sort of the hand in the cookie jar problem). I was able to put the new one in from the top and just had to feel for the right spot to screw it on. Using a taller filter made it easier. The first time was about an hour and the last time before it died was probably 15 minutes of time not counting how long I let it drain. A shorter or fatter arm would have made things horribly difficult.
As for this thread, I would suggest finding an oil that your comfortable with in all three cars. This makes keeping a "stash" of oil simple. A couple of quarts will cover everything. I use the same filter on me 04 Sequoia V8 as I do my 89 4Runner 4cyl, but since the Sequoia gets driven about 10:1 with a lot of highway miles I'm planning to run different oils so I can go for a long OCI.
Pennzoil Platinum is a great synthetic, I was impressed with Castrox GTX Blend in my wifes late 90's Cavalier or any brand name conventional would work as well.
5-30 is not thinner than 10-30 at operating temps. One can be a tiny bit thicker than the other - it can go both ways.
But at cold starting when you need the flow, the '5' is better than the '10'. I would always choose the '5' . Lots of benefits.
A proper oil filter can eliminate start up ticking. Some engines are picky about the valving in the oil filter.
Motorcraft is very good.
But at cold starting when you need the flow, the '5' is better than the '10'. I would always choose the '5' . Lots of benefits.
A proper oil filter can eliminate start up ticking. Some engines are picky about the valving in the oil filter.
Motorcraft is very good.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Originally Posted By: SAJEFFC
There's oily women here???!! Where???
There's oily women here???!! Where???
- Status
Similar threads
