Just Ordered A New Weed Whacker

Yes i have the echo, I immediately modified it for best performance.

The carb is plugged, you only need to access the high flow adjustment screw, as the idle is fine. Ditch the exhaust screen too.

there are videos on the modification out there.

Yes I like it , but never used in stock config
 
If you ordered it from Home Depot, it's going to need the air to fuel ratio adjusted. The receiving area of Home Depot is littered with returned Echo string trimmers because the average consumer has no clue how to set air/fuel ratio.
Look on YT for the procedure - if I remember correctly you have to pull out a brass plug to get access to the screw. It makes a big difference in how the engine runs, highly recommended.
 
Another update: the air/fuel ratio is non-adjustable on this carburetor; you have to remove a limiter cap so that means buying a special tool. They can possibly be removed by yanking w/pliers but not sure. It runs fine, so no adjustment needed at this time. Also, the motor has "assembled in USA" if that matters to anyone else.
Here is the procedure for adjusting the carb. fuel mixture on an ECHO 225.

 
Another update: the air/fuel ratio is non-adjustable on this carburetor; you have to remove a limiter cap so that means buying a special tool. They can possibly be removed by yanking w/pliers but not sure. It runs fine, so no adjustment needed at this time. Also, the motor has "assembled in USA" if that matters to anyone else.
The tool is $7.19 on Amazon.
 
If you ordered it from Home Depot, it's going to need the air to fuel ratio adjusted. The receiving area of Home Depot is littered with returned Echo string trimmers because the average consumer has no clue how to set air/fuel ratio.
What does this have to do with the depot? I got my srm2620 from the home depot right off the shelf but my edger shipped straight from echo to me via home depot
 
Here's the carburetor for the SRM-225.
SRM-225 (1).webp

In this drawing, the low speed mixture needle is not shown, but I have the passageway marked by the red arrow.
Reference #11 is the plastic plug to be removed for gaining access to the low speed mixture needle.
The special tool (Echo 91157) has a threaded tip for screwing into the plastic plug.
SRM-225 (2).webp

In this drawing, the 1st red arrow points to where the high speed mixture needle.
The 2nd red arrow points to the opening where you insert your screwdriver for accessing the high speed mixture needle.
SRM-225 (3) .webp
 
The High speed screw is the main one to be adjusted, unless some obvious issue, messing with idle fuel not necessary.

adjust the high speed with warm motor, at full throttle, till motor runs its cleanest and fastest.

mine starts cold at full choke with a couple bulb squeeses, and 3 to 4 pulls, soon as motor starts take the choke down a 1/4 or half inch for 20 seconds then choke off.

Ive had mine for a few years , and yeah take the exhaust off an remove screen, before adjusting fueling.
 
The High speed screw is the main one to be adjusted, unless some obvious issue, messing with idle fuel not necessary.

adjust the high speed with warm motor, at full throttle, till motor runs its cleanest and fastest.

mine starts cold at full choke with a couple bulb squeeses, and 3 to 4 pulls, soon as motor starts take the choke down a 1/4 or half inch for 20 seconds then choke off.

Ive had mine for a few years , and yeah take the exhaust off a remove screen, before adjusting fueling.
Actually no. This is very close to the proper procedure.

Ensure the spark arrestee is clean and present ..l, do not permanently remove the spark arrestor.

Do this and as you are turning the high-speed jet in and it runs faster and faster, you will get to a point where it is too lean and slows down again. What you want to do is go back it out back to the fastest then make then continue making it ever so slightly more rich. You just want to hear the RPM drop a tiny bit. Your target is very slightly rich of peak.

If you run it at absolute peak it will run to hot and not last many years
 
Actually no. This is very close to the proper procedure.

Ensure the spark arrestee is clean and present ..l, do not permanently remove the spark arrestor.

Do this and as you are turning the high-speed jet in and it runs faster and faster, you will get to a point where it is too lean and slows down again. What you want to do is go back it out back to the fastest then make then continue making it ever so slightly more rich. You just want to hear the RPM drop a tiny bit. Your target is very slightly rich of peak.

If you run it at absolute peak it will run to hot and not last many years
Like I said , had mine for years runs great , half turn at most.

if dont remove screen it will clog, but do what you want
 
I have one and it's never given me any problems. I removed the spark arrestor screen (was nasty but not clogged) and the limiter cap on the carb high speed jet to make some slight adjustments. It didn't "need" any adjustments, I just wanted to tinker. Ended up setting the high speed jet back to about where it was from the factory.
 
The echo SRM-225 is by far the best homeowner / prosumer trimmer hands down. Around the big C timeframe, echo did some major cost cutting where they removed the ability to inject grease into the gear box, changed the tube mounting grommet to plastic, and changed the front clutch housing from metal to plastic. Having said that, it is still a 20 year tool for home use, and maybe a 1-3 year piece if used commercial.

I happen to have a 2014 model, that has the serviceable gear box, metal housing, full metal flywheel, the good clutch with the friction material, and it has been a perfect requiring not a single part.
 
The echo SRM-225 is by far the best homeowner / prosumer trimmer hands down. Around the big C timeframe, echo did some major cost cutting where they removed the ability to inject grease into the gear box, changed the tube mounting grommet to plastic, and changed the front clutch housing from metal to plastic. Having said that, it is still a 20 year tool for home use, and maybe a 1-3 year piece if used commercial.

I happen to have a 2014 model, that has the serviceable gear box, metal housing, full metal flywheel, the good clutch with the friction material, and it has been a perfect requiring not a single part.
Agreed. I have a PAS-225, probably the same year as yours and it has been great. I also have a PAS-266 and have the paddle attachment, edger, pole saw, and brush cutter attachments. I find that I grab the PAS-225 most of the time, simply because it is lighter and has plenty of power for most jobs. The speedfeed head is hands down the best out there.
 
Echo is good stuff. Don't do what I did last week. Listening to headphones while doing yard work I went to start the edger and I thought I would feel the pop to indicate take it off choke and I ended up flooding the engine and it wouldn't start. I had to remove the plug and let it air out. I found my Echo equipment is relatively easy to flood. Not sure if thats an echo thing or a universal two stroke thing.
 
Echo is good stuff. Don't do what I did last week. Listening to headphones while doing yard work I went to start the edger and I thought I would feel the pop to indicate take it off choke and I ended up flooding the engine and it wouldn't start. I had to remove the plug and let it air out. I found my Echo equipment is relatively easy to flood. Not sure if thats an echo thing or a universal two stroke thing.
In my experience 2-strokes are fairly easy to flood due to their diaphragm carburetors.
 
So, basically screw in the high speed screw (the one near the primer bulb) after removing the limiter cap until it gets lean and runs its fastest, then screw it back out to richen the mixture until the rpms slow a little? Thanks for all the help. The limiter cap tool is supposed to be here from Amazon (I got the cheap $7 one) so I'll adjust it tomorrow.
 
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