Just another oil recommendation...Please

[Fortecarbon]

2011 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD - 6.0 Gas engine.

Mostly day to day commuting occasional boat and horse trailer towing. Once or twice a year long distance towing. I live in South Eastern Connecticut.

At 1000 miles I changed the factory fill to Mobile 1 0w-30. I now have 6000 miles and getting ready for the 2nd change. I typically change my oil at 5000 - 6000 miles (I don't care if it can go longer) and I like the warm and fuzzy I get from finding the "best" I can get regardless of price (within reason).

I am fairly well read about my oils and am currently debating between two: Mobile one 0W- 30 (probably go 5w30 in summer) and the infamous Castrol GC 0W-30.

The issue I have, is that I don’t believe the Castrol meets the GM specs. (or never bothered to test for the specs). I doubt that anyone could prove what oil was in the engine if there ever was a warranty issue, but it still lingers in my mind… I am interested in what you guys think? Mobile 1 with GM spec piece of mind or GC which may be a better oil?

Also thinking about changing the rear axle fluid to get the “break in” particles out – would like a recommendation here as well.

Thank you all (I love this stuff!)

Clint

 

[addyguy]

Don't use the GC - you are right, doesn't meet the GM specs.

M1 0w30 is an excellent oil that will work well, year 'round.

Your truck has an OLM for indicating when oil chages are needed, why not use that? M1 can easily do whatever interval it throws out....

 

[daman]

M1 year around OLM and M1 0 or 5w30 flavor,DONE! truck will out last you.

 

[hate2work]

Yes, change the differential fluid, many reports of metal debris in there when it gets changed the first time. Without a doubt this is what I would use. It may be a tad harder to get than something you can buy at AZ, but how often do you change your diff fluid, right? Put in the best you can buy and then forget about it for a while.

http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=SVGQT-EA

That's a flex-fuel engine, right? I think I'd stick with a 30 weight oil that meets the GM specs for now, I see no advantage to running GC in that rig.

 

[Fallguy]

GM Approved oils, your under warranty stay within their guidelines.

http://www.gm.com/corporate/responsibility/environment/maintenance/gm_approved_engine_oils.pdf

German Castrol does not supply correct MRV (cold pumpabilty spec) just list a default value 60,000 which is well above what GM allows for cold pumpability. Wanted to use GC but this is why I did not

Compare oils, click on my link in the signature line, Valvoline Synpower sports "current" ACEA A1 & A5 specs

ACEA specs are better than most US specs. US specs geared primarily for cat protection, mpg & emissions over engine protection.

 

[Fortecarbon]

Thanks guys...I guess the decision is clear.

Fallguy...that is a very cool chart. If I am interpreting it correctly - it basically leads you to the ACEA C4-08 as the most advanced performing oil. Mobil 1 0w30 and 5w30 meet only A1. What oils meet C4-08?

I left Valv. and Penz out of the running becuase I didn't think they had a 0W variant...? Of couse I didn't bother to read actual low temp visc. but I assume it would be still a little higher the the Ow oils....

Clint

 

[Fortecarbon]

Wait - I found a better spec - the Mercedes MB 229.5 (1) which leads one to the Mobil Ow-40 (also not the GM spec I need) and also back to the GC...

Which brings to the table the question.... what is the GM LL-A-025 spec? and how does it compare to the other US GM specs?

 

[Steve S]

If you run syn oil you can go to the max OLM and feel fuzzy that the engine will last as long as if you changed the oil every 5,000 miles. Syn is only the best if you use its properties and long drains and extreme cold starts are its best properties. I would change the differential and trannie oil and filter. I just did my daughters new cars auto the other day 5,000 miles and there was a bit of metal in the pan not bad but it is break in wear and the oil was darker than I expected., not bad but darker. I wouldn't want it in there for 30,000 miles.

 

[4Kings]

I've used nearly all the different syn's available at one time or another along with the OLM. The 6.0 is pretty easy on oil.

For the rear end, I've always used Mobil 75/90 synthetic. I tow a 5th wheel that weighs in around 8500lbs. If you tow heavy ALOT, I would use the 75/140 Mobil gear oil.

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Fortecarbon
Mobil 1 0w30 and 5w30 meet only A1.

5w30 meets...

A1/B1, A5/B5


http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_5w30.aspx

 

[Fallguy]

I still have a lot to learn on ACEA specs. The B specs are for diesel, The A specs are for gas engines I beleive.

Not sure yet what the C specs are geared for.

ACEA is a euro spec and quite stringent is why like looking at it.

Many US oils can get into the A1 & A5, then you have to start buying an actual euro oil which can not be found hear. Some oils do not advertise if they meet ACEA as it is a eruo spec but I like to see the oils that list meeting ACEA. Some meet older ACEA and if you look on a bottle will list like A1/B1(04). If the ACEA spec on the bottle does not list the year it should meet highest ACEA year spec as per what Valvoline informed me.

Pick an oil off the GM sheet, to stay within warranty per what your manual recommends.

Good Luck, Valvoline Synpower is my oil of choice currently as I find very little shearing with it per the Used Oil analysis (UOA) here but am going to try Pennzoil Ultra next.