Jump Packs/Starters
- Thread starter Grambo
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The more amps the better, and good quality clamps. The kind that plug into your lighter will only dump some charge into the battery, if IT isn't in good shape it won't help much.
I got one like this one. You want the most amps (and compare apples to apples, peak to peak or cranking to cranking). Long cables. Built in charger rather than power cube charger. Keep it charged and warm. If its been sitting in your car all night and its 0F out, good luck.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JUMP-N-CARRY-660...01b&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JUMP-N-CARRY-660...01b&vxp=mtr
As mentioned above,,,More Amp's the better, Overall they don't last long especially the ones with the built in tire pump, I tried 2 different brands years ago and each only lasted a year,,Your better off buying a brand new battery for the price that last longer than these things do
Another thing to consider is what else do you have? If you live alone and have one vehicle, then maybe just buy one and leave it inside plugged in. To carry with you maybe jumper cables would be better. Most people are willing to give you a jump but may not have jumper cables. Quality low gauge jumper cables will probably give you more of a jump than a jump pack.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Another thing to consider is what else do you have? If you live alone and have one vehicle, then maybe just buy one and leave it inside plugged in. To carry with you maybe jumper cables would be better. Most people are willing to give you a jump but may not have jumper cables. Quality low gauge jumper cables will probably give you more of a jump than a jump pack.
Good Point Donald
Another thing to consider is what else do you have? If you live alone and have one vehicle, then maybe just buy one and leave it inside plugged in. To carry with you maybe jumper cables would be better. Most people are willing to give you a jump but may not have jumper cables. Quality low gauge jumper cables will probably give you more of a jump than a jump pack.
Good Point Donald
I found that if the chassis battery was extremely discharged, then most jumper packs were not able to crank my v8. Only if the battery was just barely below the ability to crank itself was the jumper pack of any use.
"Low gauge" jumper cables might be misinterpreted by some. 4 awg or thicker cables 12 feet and under with good clamps should pass more amps than a jumper pack with a 12 a/h battery, though some have 18 or 22 a/h agm batteries inside and have more cranking amps than others.
Beware of copper clad aluminum jumper cables, and the drug store 10 awg cables. These require the jumper vehicle to be connected much longer idling before attempting to start the jumpee.
The batteries within these jumper packs are not difficult to replace. The batteries themselves can be obtained for ~22 to 48$. They do not have to be viewed as disposable, though I know that flies in the face of our current culture.
I rigged up a male to male ciggy plug with 10 awg wire to help recharge the jumper pack while driving, but this would blow a 15 amp fuse if the jumper pack was heavily depleted. No doubt many vehicles thin gauge wiring to the ciggy plug receptacle/powerport cannot support passing more than just a few amps in either direction.
"Low gauge" jumper cables might be misinterpreted by some. 4 awg or thicker cables 12 feet and under with good clamps should pass more amps than a jumper pack with a 12 a/h battery, though some have 18 or 22 a/h agm batteries inside and have more cranking amps than others.
Beware of copper clad aluminum jumper cables, and the drug store 10 awg cables. These require the jumper vehicle to be connected much longer idling before attempting to start the jumpee.
The batteries within these jumper packs are not difficult to replace. The batteries themselves can be obtained for ~22 to 48$. They do not have to be viewed as disposable, though I know that flies in the face of our current culture.
I rigged up a male to male ciggy plug with 10 awg wire to help recharge the jumper pack while driving, but this would blow a 15 amp fuse if the jumper pack was heavily depleted. No doubt many vehicles thin gauge wiring to the ciggy plug receptacle/powerport cannot support passing more than just a few amps in either direction.
JHZR2
Staff member
I dont see the point of these jumper packs.
Id much rather spend my money on a decent battery float charger/maintainer, and a convenient size standard car battery.
Plus jumper cables, which everyone should have of course...
A small starter battery kept in a garage or other controlled, non-underhood location and on a float charger should last >10 years.
Id much rather spend my money on a decent battery float charger/maintainer, and a convenient size standard car battery.
Plus jumper cables, which everyone should have of course...
A small starter battery kept in a garage or other controlled, non-underhood location and on a float charger should last >10 years.
JHZR2
Staff member
Beware of copper clad aluminum jumper cables, and the drug store 10 awg cables. These require the jumper vehicle to be connected much longer idling before attempting to start the jumpee.
[/quote]
What's the easiest way to determine?
I was walking through a wal-mart to kill some time recently, and saw that they actually have US-made jumper cables! Not as heavy as Id like for the length, but they looked decent.
But I didnt realize that Al wires were being sold as jumpers... Wonder if it would show up in a product from Walmart.
[/quote]
What's the easiest way to determine?
I was walking through a wal-mart to kill some time recently, and saw that they actually have US-made jumper cables! Not as heavy as Id like for the length, but they looked decent.
But I didnt realize that Al wires were being sold as jumpers... Wonder if it would show up in a product from Walmart.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Quote:
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Beware of copper clad aluminum jumper cables, and the drug store 10 awg cables. These require the jumper vehicle to be connected much longer idling before attempting to start the jumpee.
What's the easiest way to determine?
I was walking through a wal-mart to kill some time recently, and saw that they actually have US-made jumper cables! Not as heavy as Id like for the length, but they looked decent.
But I didnt realize that Al wires were being sold as jumpers... Wonder if it would show up in a product from Walmart.
Make your own. I have a set my grandfather made, they are 0-gauge welding cable with some beefy clamps on them. They are also 20ft long.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Beware of copper clad aluminum jumper cables, and the drug store 10 awg cables. These require the jumper vehicle to be connected much longer idling before attempting to start the jumpee.
What's the easiest way to determine?
I was walking through a wal-mart to kill some time recently, and saw that they actually have US-made jumper cables! Not as heavy as Id like for the length, but they looked decent.
But I didnt realize that Al wires were being sold as jumpers... Wonder if it would show up in a product from Walmart.
Make your own. I have a set my grandfather made, they are 0-gauge welding cable with some beefy clamps on them. They are also 20ft long.
You are in NY, cold temperature can cut the battery power by 1/2. If the Booster Pak is stored indoors maybe a so so one is OK. If you keep it in the trunk thats another story.
I tend to use my jump pack for other things (tractor, generator) more than my car.
With respect to jumper cables, you need to look where it says "copper wire" on the description. Otherwise suspect copper clad aluminum. So you cannot go by looking. While I doubt is ever used for a jumper cable, wire used in boats is tinned copper, which looks like aluminum. So looks can be deceiving. Also if its a 20' 2 gauge jumper cable at Family Dollar for $9.99, suspect aluminum wire.
With respect to jumper cables, you need to look where it says "copper wire" on the description. Otherwise suspect copper clad aluminum. So you cannot go by looking. While I doubt is ever used for a jumper cable, wire used in boats is tinned copper, which looks like aluminum. So looks can be deceiving. Also if its a 20' 2 gauge jumper cable at Family Dollar for $9.99, suspect aluminum wire.
Originally Posted By: Grambo
i was looking at autozones website and app's an both of their cables aren't authentic COPPER WIRE THEY JUST HAVE COPPER POSTS WHAT DOES CPA STAND FOR COPPER PLATED ALUMINUM? where can i get good ones on a budget?
I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U7...;pf_rd_i=507846
i was looking at autozones website and app's an both of their cables aren't authentic COPPER WIRE THEY JUST HAVE COPPER POSTS WHAT DOES CPA STAND FOR COPPER PLATED ALUMINUM? where can i get good ones on a budget?
I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U7...;pf_rd_i=507846
Another consideration is that copper wire is not all the same. For any copper wire, battery cables, jumper cables, even primary wire you want small strands of wire and lots of them. A 4 guage cable for example with 50 strands of wire is not nearly as good as a 4 guage cable with 300 much smaller strands of wire. While they cost more the price difference is well worth it.
JHZR2
Staff member
My gym is by a wal Mart so I popped in to look at the us made jumper cables. I was considering buying a set just to keep in my work travel car.
Because the discussion here mentioned cu coated aluminum wire, I opened a set up and checked the ends of the wire closely.
Lots of silver color... Pretty indicative to me of a coated wire.
Bummer, they were even us made.
Because the discussion here mentioned cu coated aluminum wire, I opened a set up and checked the ends of the wire closely.
Lots of silver color... Pretty indicative to me of a coated wire.
Bummer, they were even us made.
The best alligator clamps have both jaws connected to the cable either at the hinge point, or with a braided cable. The clamps and their ability to be clamped well onto the battery lugs is just as important as the cable in terms of performance
The thicker the cable the better, and especially at 20 feet long, and copper cables are heavier than aluminum. If they feel light for their length and claimed wire gauge, then keep looking or realize the limitations.
The limitations being that the jumper car must be attached to the jumpee for longer before attempting to start the jumpee.
Thick copper cables are pretty much hook it up and crank the jumpee, even 20 foot long ones.
The thicker the cable the better, and especially at 20 feet long, and copper cables are heavier than aluminum. If they feel light for their length and claimed wire gauge, then keep looking or realize the limitations.
The limitations being that the jumper car must be attached to the jumpee for longer before attempting to start the jumpee.
Thick copper cables are pretty much hook it up and crank the jumpee, even 20 foot long ones.
[/quote]
I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U7...;pf_rd_i=507846 [/quote]
Read the reviews. Too many say they are not 4 gauge.
I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U7...;pf_rd_i=507846 [/quote]
Read the reviews. Too many say they are not 4 gauge.
Originally Posted By: johnachak
[/quote]
I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U7...;pf_rd_i=507846
Read the reviews. Too many say they are not 4 gauge. [/quote]
Yes, I recant that suggestion. I was looking but did not order them.
[/quote]
I was considering getting these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007U7...;pf_rd_i=507846
Read the reviews. Too many say they are not 4 gauge. [/quote]
Yes, I recant that suggestion. I was looking but did not order them.
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