Jeep oil and SuperTech

I would use it without a worry. Not all symptoms of a HM engine are evident at first. IMO, you want to address the seals before they start leaking. A good HM oil will do so by keeping those seals conditioned to a higher degree than non-HM oils.
 
not the cheapest but I am going with Rotella T6 5w40 in a similar application, 1997 Wrangler with a 4.0. These engines have flat tappets and I like the idea of something that can handle doing some tough duty four wheeling on a hot day, so the 40 weight seems sensible. Your usage may be different and merit a different oil selection.
 
walterjay said:
No
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kinda random that you are from maryland with that username but no affiliation!

walterjaycollision.com

Home - Walter Jay Auto Painting, Inc.

Friendly, expert service by fully qualified technicians Friendly, expert service by fully qualified technicians We treat you like you are the most important customer we have, because you are. Request an Estimate WELCOME TO OUR AUTO BODY SHOP WEBSITE! We’re excited to launch our new website...
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our 2005 Jeep GC 3.7L has 5W30 Super Tech FS HM in it. Over halfway through its first OCI with Super Tech and all the rotating parts are still in the engine!!!

Just my $0.02
 
My 4.0 had a lot of miles, and somewhat low hot oil pressure, so it got a steady diet of 10W40, 20W50, and 10W30 MaxLife, all of which stopped its slow RMS leak. The 4.0 isn’t very picky, and XG8A sized filters are the way to go, protected by their sideways mount from road debris damage.
 
CheezWhiz said:
kinda random that you are from maryland with that username but no affiliation!

walterjaycollision.com

Home - Walter Jay Auto Painting, Inc.

Friendly, expert service by fully qualified technicians Friendly, expert service by fully qualified technicians We treat you like you are the most important customer we have, because you are. Request an Estimate WELCOME TO OUR AUTO BODY SHOP WEBSITE! We’re excited to launch our new website...
walterjaycollision.com
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This is really wierd. I was looking at a job today and one of the contractors asked me if I was a Walter J who played a guitar in high school that he knew. It certainly wasn't me.
 
My jeep 4.0 has 210k and I've put in every oil from cheap valvoline 10w30 to redline 10w40 and honestly the 4.0 will do great on a cheap conventional 10w30. It doesn't need a higher zinc oil, it does fine on the modern stuff, but I'm currently using valvoline vr1 10w30 because it makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside haha. With a fram XG16 as well. With that all being said we have another cherokee with the 4.0 and it's had valvoline maxlife 10w30 all its life and is also doing amazing.
 
Been running ST synthetic in my 2000 XJ for well over 100k now. No issues. Actually started using it in all my engines several years ago, no issues.
 
To be honest, they're all good choices. I'd go with the cheapest 10W-30. The 4.0 just isn't a picky motor. 260K miles here with whatever oil I had around: 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, sometimes a mix of 5W-20/30/40, conventional/syn/HDEO, sometimes a bottle of bacon grease if I want the car to smell delicious. But it usually gets Pennzoil HM 10W-40 or GTX HM 10W30 every 5-6K miles with PH16 or 3600-size filter. When I took the valve cover off many years ago it had a bit of varnish. The WJ has gone through 3 radiators and two sets of coolant hoses though, and each time overheated briefly and dumped coolant on the highway. But it's still ticking along. If only the rest of the car is as durable as the motor.
 
AutoMechanic said:
I wouldn’t do it just because I couldn’t sleep at night but that’s up to you. I’d use Valvoline or Castrol or Pennzoil conventional if it was me. In my opinion it’s important to use better oils as the vehicle ages.
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I did the opposite and it went really well for me. I'd used Motorcraft 5w20 every oil change on my mom's car and it started leaking about a quart every 1500 miles. I decided to switch it to Supertech conventional high mileage, and not only did it leak less, but I feel it actually runs smoother overall with Supertech conventional compared to Motorcraft. That's not very scientific, but less leaks (2700 miles last change, seems even better this change...) and a feeling of it running smoother and quieter for a lot less money is pretty good. The only downside on my butt dyno is it seems to be "tired" after 4000 or so miles, whereas Motorcraft felt less tired at 5000. I'm really happy it runs quieter and overall smoother, though. Don't know why or what, but it was an upgrade.

On my father's Kia Sportage with the GDI motor I did an oil change with ST synthetic and he said it was OK, but with Valvoline Maxlife he said a lifter tick went away.

I ran my old Galant on Supertech conventional for about 40K miles and had no problems with it at all, and when I pulled the head it was pretty clean and just had light varnish and no sludge.


This guy says it pretty well, imo.

Give it a try sometime, it's not bad oil.
 
celicaxx said:
I did the opposite and it went really well for me. I'd used Motorcraft 5w20 every oil change on my mom's car and it started leaking about a quart every 1500 miles. I decided to switch it to Supertech conventional high mileage, and not only did it leak less, but I feel it actually runs smoother overall with Supertech conventional compared to Motorcraft. That's not very scientific, but less leaks (2700 miles last change, seems even better this change...) and a feeling of it running smoother and quieter for a lot less money is pretty good. The only downside on my butt dyno is it seems to be "tired" after 4000 or so miles, whereas Motorcraft felt less tired at 5000. I'm really happy it runs quieter and overall smoother, though. Don't know why or what, but it was an upgrade.

On my father's Kia Sportage with the GDI motor I did an oil change with ST synthetic and he said it was OK, but with Valvoline Maxlife he said a lifter tick went away.

I ran my old Galant on Supertech conventional for about 40K miles and had no problems with it at all, and when I pulled the head it was pretty clean and just had light varnish and no sludge.


This guy says it pretty well, imo.

Give it a try sometime, it's not bad oil.
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I just don’t think I could stomach pouring that in my engine.
 
srfdude said:
02 Jeep 4.0, 165K miles. 50-50 hwy/s&g driving, hot in SoCal. Don't want to spend on expensive oils at this point, change every 5-7K miles. Prev. owner used Econolube places, randomly I think. So going with ST, HM 10W-30, -40, conventional or syn HM 5W-30? Advice?
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Sounds like a great plan; I had a 2004 4 L jeep engine… Super tech tested as good as any other oil at 5,000 miles including M1, Amsoil, and Valvoline white bottle.

I can still grab you the UOA if you want it.
 
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