It's official- I'm now one of the AR collective

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Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Okay, so I have another question guys- Looking at bolts on Palmetto's web site and I see some that are listed as full auto, or M16, or AR15, or lastly, a combination of them. Some specify 5.56mm and some don't. What is that all about?


edit: Primary arms has THIS bolt here. Looks like an absolute steal. Why so cheap? Made in China?


FWIW, you're not looking at a Primary arms Bolt carrier group. It's just the carrier assembly and it's made by WMD and they are GTG/have a very good reputation. Per the listing... It does not include bolt assembly, firing pin, cam pin, or firing pin retaining pin.. Which explains the cost.
 
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Originally Posted By: The_Eric
edit: Primary arms has THIS bolt here. Looks like an absolute steal. Why so cheap? Made in China?


Its so cheap because its missing more than half of its parts. Its a carrier. Not a COMPLETE bolt carrier group.

On AR15 vs M16 carriers, look at this picture. About 7 to 10 years ago, the AR15 carriers were much more popular as the M16 carriers were considered sorta illegal. Once the ATF advised that possession of M16 carriers were legal and did not make the gun a machine gun, they became a lot more popular. Its easier for gun manufacturers to stock one carrier than two, especially when they work the same.

boltCarriers_zpsfcwgtsn2.gif
 
If you want a good bolt carrier group, I can HIGHLY recommend the PSA premium BCG. They have identical markings to FN bolts that come out of FN guns. FN is made in the same town as PSA, so it makes sense that PSA sources its premium bolts from FN as well at their hammer forged barrels. They sell their carriers with the PSA logo, or without, your choice. They are real deal G.I. spec carriers. You would be hard pressed to find a better carrier, especially for the price.

As for the coated carriers, I dont care for them. They are easier to clean? Who cares. They are also coated with several thousandths worth of coatings, which I have seen several that were now too large and no longer in spec. For a coated carrier to be manufactured properly, it needs to be manufactured slightly smaller before the application of the coating, to account for the thickness of the coating.
 
Well guys, I went ahead and bought almost enough parts to complete the build yesterday. I went ahead and spent a little more and purchased from a local range that way I could see all the small parts in the kits. The next build, I'll source more from online.

Here is what I've managed so far- not all that much yet since I'm waiting on the tools from a generous acquaintance that I bumped into at the range- he offered to loan me all the necessary equipment to complete the build!
gbtVPGm.jpg



I also didn't want to get too far along as my wife wants to help and get her hands dirty so to speak. While she was in the Army years ago and qualified Marksman on the M16, she's a bit rusty- she wants to see one go together and learn from it. The other day I rented an AR and we ran through 50 rounds together- she was hooked! With a huge grin, she said "I want one!"
 
One big problem that I see so far is that the upper won't fully pivot on the lower at the front pin. The area around that pin hole (upper receiver) has too much metal and hits on the lower before it is able to swing open.

What options do I have? I suppose I'll just have to clearance that lug?
 
What do you need any "pivot" for? It serves no real purpose if your gun can pivot or not. As long as you can put the pins in, and take them out for disassembly and cleaning, then it will be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
What do you need any "pivot" for? It serves no real purpose if your gun can pivot or not. As long as you can put the pins in, and take them out for disassembly and cleaning, then it will be fine.
I don't know? I just ASSumed that since one of the ARs that I handled did that, then they are all supposed to. I guess not?
 
Not far. Not much, if any above the buffer tube- and yes, the pin is all the way through.
 
THIS is my barrel. What care is needed for that type of finish? How resistant to the elements is it?

Also, what is "good" price for ammo? Like for instance the M855 or M193?
 
I don't know what to tell you. My ARs will open. I like them to open for easy .22 conversions.

The barrel will be fine barring neglect. Wipe it down with a little lube every few years.

M193 is getting down to about $.30/rd. Little more for M855.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
THIS is my barrel. What care is needed for that type of finish? How resistant to the elements is it?


That barrel is Parkerized. Parkerizing itself offers little to no rust protection on it's own. Rather it acts as a media to hold oil close to the metal itself, thus preventing rust. The best way to initially treat Parkerizing is to apply a HEAVY coat of your favorite oil all over it's full length. Being sure not to miss any spots. Allow that time to, "soak in". The best is overnight. The barrel should be practically dripping with oil at this point. Then after 24 hours or so, lightly blot away any excess oil with an absorbent cloth or paper towel. Don't "scrub" or wipe it because it will attract lint like crazy do to it's rough, almost abrasive surface finish. After that you're good to go.

I would reapply oil as often as it needs it, or whenever it appears to look dry. Completely dry Parkerizing appears to have a light greyish color. While well oiled Parkerizing has a darker finish. The more humidity or dampness the weapon sees, the more I would oil it. Just remember it's the oil you apply to it that will prevent any rust from happening. Not the Parkerizing itself.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Not far. Not much, if any above the buffer tube- and yes, the pin is all the way through.


Your rifle should open all of the way without any difficulty. Something is obviously preventing this. Without examining the rifle itself I would only be guessing. Does the front pin operate properly? It should slide in and out without difficulty up to the detent.
 
Like I said at the end of pg3, the upper's lug is hitting the lower.

HAbJyH1.jpg


This edge:

GELk2uP.jpg


Limit of travel:

UdJ6Ci3.jpg
 
Judging from the pictures, (very good pictures by the way), I'm not seeing a simple remedy here. It looks like you would have to grind away a lot of material, in order for the upper and lower to pivot normally. No way I would do that. I think you will either have to live with it, or else exchange that upper for a different one. This is the first time I've seen or heard of this. Uppers and lowers are usually manufactured to all standard dimensions. At least as far as interference is concerned. Something appears to be way out of whack here.
 
Bill, would you be willing to get me a thickness measurement? From the front (inside) of the mag well to the outside, between the pivot pin lugs.

The upper is an Anderson and supposed to be mil-spec. I'm not sure about the lower. I went on Anerson's website and looked at reviews... Found one where it didn't fit to the lower, but it was a Ruger and they're claiming it's because it wasn't mil-spec. Now mine of course is a Noreen, but is it mil-spec? Dunno.
 
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Thanks for the link Bill- I checked and it must only be a few thou off because it's measuring close.

I picked up the PSA lower that bubbatime recommended today, so I pinned the upper to it to see how it worked- as you can see, it was fine. So obviously the issue lies with the Noreen lower.

[img:center]http://i.imgur.com/HaFHJYG.jpg?1[/img]


edit: not sure why pics aren't posting?
 
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What's the deal with that handguard? Do you have it installed or did you just put it together to see what it looks like?
 
Originally Posted By: hatt
What's the deal with that handguard? Do you have it installed or did you just put it together to see what it looks like?


It's just loosely screwed together for now- I'm going to go in search of a front sight and need to know about if I'll need a shorter fore grip or what. Reference only.
 
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