Is using Dino a NO NO in a Turbo?

45ACP · Sep 10, 2011

Originally Posted By: river_rat
Originally Posted By: mva
PP 5W30 SN meets A5 and GF5

+1 If it meets warranty requirements, I'd run this in about anything and feel good. It doesn't cost much more and is engineered for tough applications.

PYB is the only SN i have seen manufactured in grade 20W-50.

My manager even uses 20W-50 in his engine, and.. what can i say, he is very proud of it. Im not sure what to think, or tell him. (Hint: He doesnt have a turbo. He has a newer model Oldsmobile Alero, with the V6.)

Cujet · Sep 10, 2011

Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
I think synthetic is beneficial in turbos that aren't water cooled. Most newer engines with turbos are water cooled these days.

As I mentioned above, there are oil lubricated sections of modern turbo's that are just as hot as always. Water cooled or not.

Synthetics perform far better in modern turbo's.

Ask anybody in a turbo overhaul shop what works. The answer is always synthetics.

Cujet · Sep 10, 2011

For those who don't understand the above picture, that's a turbine wheel and the associated ring seals.

Yes, that's minor coking in the seal land. Yes, modern turbo's are more tolerant of minor coking. That does not mean you should run conventional oil.

Here is a guy who ran conventional oil. How do I know? Just look!

45ACP · Sep 10, 2011

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: motor_oil_madman
I think synthetic is beneficial in turbos that aren't water cooled. Most newer engines with turbos are water cooled these days.

As I mentioned above, there are oil lubricated sections of modern turbo's that are just as hot as always. Water cooled or not.

Synthetics perform far better in modern turbo's.

Ask anybody in a turbo overhaul shop what works. The answer is always synthetics.

If the engine "Accepts" the oil, id have to agree.

About a car-specific application, there is a user on here that uses a synthetic 20W-50 in his 300ZX (twin) Turbo. Is his a wise choice? He says the car loves it.

People with the 7MGTE engine also like to use heavy oil. (Thats the Supra turbo, for those that didnt know. 7MGE is non-turbo.) This is an 85, had 7MGTE swap, and turbo enlargements

Merkava_4 · Sep 10, 2011

Any Dino is gonna get cooked in a turbo.

45ACP · Sep 10, 2011

Originally Posted By: Cujet
For those who don't understand the above picture, that's a turbine wheel and the associated ring seals.

Yes, that's minor coking in the seal land. Yes, modern turbo's are more tolerant of minor coking. That does not mean you should run conventional oil.

Here is a guy who ran conventional oil. How do I know? Just look!

The difference is that drastic between syn and conventional, huh?

Arent today's conventionals tougher? Just a question. (Today's SN oils..)

aquariuscsm says he uses 10W-40 or 20W-50 in his Z. PYB, or Royal Purple.

Hoosier_Daddy · Sep 11, 2011

in regards to the pictures, we know nothing about the specific turbocharger, the vehicle, the oil used, the OCI etc etc.

TurboTravis · Sep 11, 2011

I'm late to this party....

I'm making seven, yes seven hp per cubic inch (122 cubic inch, over 800 crank hp) on conventional oil (VR1 20W50). Done this for the last two 'seasons' (car is driven fall/spring/summer) with NO issues. See my recent UOA on this forum!

Also remember that 18-wheelers are all turbo'ed and there engines run MILLIONS of miles on Rotella (or similar) 15W40's..

(very tired, sorry for any errors)

TurboTravis · Sep 11, 2011

And, my educated two cents are this-as long as the oil temps are in check, conventional is fine. Synthetic will be a better choice at ULTRA high oil temps, which in that case you should have a cooler installed, rather than using a 'better' oil as a bandaid.

30valve · Sep 11, 2011

Why would anyone who spends thousands of dollars on a turbo vehicle even think about going cheap on oil to save a few bucks. Just run good syn and be confident that you are running the best oil for a turbo. Nuff said!

subiedriver · Sep 11, 2011

You can do a synthetic oil change for 30 bucks in most cases, 30 bucks every 6 month's is nothing. If it were my car, I'd be running a synthetic in it. I would also look for the HTO-O6 spec, ala Mobil 1.

I work in a kia shop and we use (supposedly) valvoline 5w-20 conventional. I'm not betting on a long turbo life with that oil. Since the oil comes from a bulk drum, who knows what it really is.

uazj1 · Sep 11, 2011

Synthetic for sure. You can run longer OCIs on a turbo with synthetics, which offset the minor cost difference. I run 7k mile intervals on my wife's turbo WRX with great results:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...987#Post1135987

mechtech2 · Sep 11, 2011

Use a full synthetic with a turbocharged engine.

RamAir5 · Sep 11, 2011

Kia recommends a 3k OCI for the turbo 2.0 engine. I have heard they are pretty hard line when it comes to warranty work. Extended OCIs are not an option. That, in a nutshell, is the reason for my original question. Is 3k OCI on a good quality conventional the same as a 5k or 6k OCI on synthetic? If so, I'm gonna go with conventional. 3k OCI on synthetic seems expensive.

roadrunner1 · Sep 11, 2011

Originally Posted By: RamAir5
Kia recommends a 3k OCI for the turbo 2.0 engine. I have heard they are pretty hard line when it comes to warranty work. Extended OCIs are not an option. That, in a nutshell, is the reason for my original question. Is 3k OCI on a good quality conventional the same as a 5k or 6k OCI on synthetic? If so, I'm gonna go with conventional. 3k OCI on synthetic seems expensive.

I agree with you 100%, with a warrenty involved just stick to owners manual specs and you'll be just fine.

Garak · Sep 11, 2011

Originally Posted By: TurboTravis
Also remember that 18-wheelers are all turbo'ed and there engines run MILLIONS of miles on Rotella (or similar) 15W40's..

I realize that people state that the exhaust temperatures on turbo diesels are lower than those of turbo gassers under boost. People neglect the fact that at a steady highway speed, gasoline turbo engines are running on a vacuum, not boost (unless their highway speed is double the limit or something), whereas turbo diesels tend to have boost under normal highway driving.

Ken2 · Sep 11, 2011

Originally Posted By: RamAir5
Kia recommends a 3k OCI for the turbo 2.0 engine. I have heard they are pretty hard line when it comes to warranty work. Extended OCIs are not an option. That, in a nutshell, is the reason for my original question. Is 3k OCI on a good quality conventional the same as a 5k or 6k OCI on synthetic? If so, I'm gonna go with conventional. 3k OCI on synthetic seems expensive.
You can get the 3000 mile oil analyzed for $25 from Blackstone and see what's happening inside the oil. If the conventional oil is still good after 3k, stick with that and minimize your cost while protecting your engine. One more thing--how long do you plan on owning this car? If not too long, you don't have to take as much care. If you plan on owning it for a very long time, it saves money to spend more wisely.

I've got 196,000 miles on my turbo Volvo with 10k oil changes using 5W-40 full syn oil. I'm using Schaeffer's, and the last analysis at 9k said that the oil was still good and to sample again at 11k. I change at 10k for my convenience. The engine and turbocharger are running fine, and the turbo seems to build pressure as quickly as I remember it always doing. Many of the turbo troubles are caused by the design of the turbocharger and the oil system. VW made problems for their owners. Volvo did a good job. We'll have to wait and see how well other makers are doing.

45ACP · Sep 11, 2011

Originally Posted By: TurboTravis
I'm late to this party....

I'm making seven, yes seven hp per cubic inch (122 cubic inch, over 800 crank hp) on conventional oil (VR1 20W50). Done this for the last two 'seasons' (car is driven fall/spring/summer) with NO issues. See my recent UOA on this forum!

Also remember that 18-wheelers are all turbo'ed and there engines run MILLIONS of miles on Rotella (or similar) 15W40's..

(very tired, sorry for any errors)

Thank you for clarifying and VERIFYING my remarks about 20W-50 in a turbo, CONVENTIONAL, if you so wanted to use that. People thought i was being facetious (actually meaner than that, with a picture of a fishing rod, hmm) when i said some use 20W-50 conventional in their turbos. Seems i will never get an apology, either.

TurboTrav i am curious: What kind of car? And what kind of mods get you THAT many HP? Sounds like a Supra 7MGTE i have experience with that one.......... or Lingenfelter Turbo Vette

45ACP · Sep 11, 2011

Originally Posted By: 30valve
Why would anyone who spends thousands of dollars on a turbo vehicle even think about going cheap on oil to save a few bucks. Just run good syn and be confident that you are running the best oil for a turbo. Nuff said!

Yeah, but it might not do so good in other parts of the engine and clean away "sealer sludge" and "contribute" to leaks, since we are being correct and professional in our terminology in this discussion. Some people also do not like syn, and for that reason alone they will look elsewhere for oil to put in.

Im being serious, if it likes synthetic then GOOD use it

and if it doesnt do that, bingo you got it use syn, yea, if you want to but it might not.

teambeechstreet · Sep 11, 2011

The place that rebuilt the turbo on my Volvo suggested synthetics w/ 3-4K OCIs

Is using Dino a NO NO in a Turbo?

Similar threads