Not enough leverage with those ViseGrips. A real C-clamp would have been less aggravating.
Is this how to get a caliper to retract? 🤣
- Thread starter Brybo86
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I would suggest driving like a granny for the next couple of weeks just in case you FUBAR'd the calipers up. Otherwise your next post may show some air bags and a smashed up front end.Yes they were open.
I tried that first, took a hammer to them but it didn't budge.
I think most of the pressure was directed toward the edge of the piston, that part the normally touches the pads, as it was a bit marred after all the hammering.
It certainly crossed my mind but i didn't have any new seals on hand.
What is the easiest way to get the piston out without it blasting off and making a big mess?
I don't claim to be a professional. I knew this was a hack job. Why do you think I posted it with aand LOL
I did this and posted this purely for my bitog buddies enjoyment.
Given the relative affordability of rebuilt calipers... I tend to replace them when presented with any amount of excess resistance while I compress the piston. Seals swell, things corrode, slides seize. It's often more economical to just slap a reman on than it is trying to save what you have, as a layman.
What is the best method to remove corrosion from the caliper bore and sides of piston? Fine sandpaper, steel wool, wire wheel on Dremel?
All of the above?
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If pistons are rusted or scored you replace them, caliper piston bores are honed with a brake hone providing it is not rusted or corroded.
Unless the caliper is rare and hard to find I find it best just to replace them, a good caliper does not require too much force to push the piston back.
Unless the caliper is rare and hard to find I find it best just to replace them, a good caliper does not require too much force to push the piston back.
Yeah if a c clamp won't do it you should replace the caliper.
I didnt think it was kosher to push on the inside of the piston like that.
I use old brakepad so force is distributed around the face of the piston.
a regular 6$ c clamp works fine.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/c-clamps/5-inch-deep-throat-u-clamp-45916.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/c-clamps/8-inch-industrial-c-clamps-39610.html
I use old brakepad so force is distributed around the face of the piston.
a regular 6$ c clamp works fine.
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/c-clamps/5-inch-deep-throat-u-clamp-45916.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/c-clamps/8-inch-industrial-c-clamps-39610.html
If they needed the force of a hammer banging on those vice grips to compress them, I would have replaced them along with the brake hoses, a$$uming the brake hoses weren't recently replaced.
You sure these don't spin back in? Some Acura's need them spun to go back. My BIL was getting close to your methods then googled it, their honda integra type r needed them spun on the rears..
My 2008 Accord rear calipers spin in but front press in to retract.
This 1997 Acura has press in for both front and rear.
I got the pistons out easily, could wiggle them out with 2 fingers once they piston cleared the main seal.
Pretty good combo of dirt, brake fluid and rust everywhere.
They cleaned up pretty nice though.
I got a new seal and boot from the zoners but the new boot was too thick to fit in groove of caliper so I had to reuse the old boot.
After cleaning I was able to push the piston into the caliper with my thumbs, no tool needed.
Also had to bleed the them a few times to get all the air out.
Much better "bite" than after hammering the piston back into the caliper yesterday.
Pretty good combo of dirt, brake fluid and rust everywhere.
They cleaned up pretty nice though.
I got a new seal and boot from the zoners but the new boot was too thick to fit in groove of caliper so I had to reuse the old boot.
After cleaning I was able to push the piston into the caliper with my thumbs, no tool needed.
Also had to bleed the them a few times to get all the air out.
Much better "bite" than after hammering the piston back into the caliper yesterday.
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Good work.
Another tip: when you are messing with brakes, check the caliper slide pins. Make sure the grease is clean, and it has hi-temp grease there. Make sure the boot is intact and not torn at all. That lets in road salts and grime that gel the grease and cause the pin to seize or stick, especially in rust belt areas like yours. When that happens you loose mpgs and tear up pads and rotors. The pin boot cap is indicated here:
Another tip: when you are messing with brakes, check the caliper slide pins. Make sure the grease is clean, and it has hi-temp grease there. Make sure the boot is intact and not torn at all. That lets in road salts and grime that gel the grease and cause the pin to seize or stick, especially in rust belt areas like yours. When that happens you loose mpgs and tear up pads and rotors. The pin boot cap is indicated here:
I just use those $6 Harbor Freight C clamp but I use the screw type, and I tighten them gently, usually with a block of wood or old brake pad to spread out the load. Slow and easy so the brake fluid has time to flow back.
Hammer will break things, not for hydraulics.
Hammer will break things, not for hydraulics.
My Honda was a screw type. Forcing with a clamp would ruin them. You sure they weren't a screw type?
Yeah, my Early 2000's Civic was this way. A Honda/Acura thing. He may have just destroyed them and will have to replace anyway over a $10 tool from an auto parts store. Maybe that year Acura isn't screw type?
Edit: just saw he said front brakes. I think it was only rear that had the screw in type.
I use my giant channel lock pliers for this. Slow and steady. Never had a problem.
That's only calipers with hand brake mechanism. How many cars have hand brake on the front?
The pistons in that case aren't hollow either, can't put a c-clamp inside them.
If the piston does not go back easily with a c-clamp then you need to either replace the caliper or rebuild it yourself. The piston needs to look pristine after you wipe it clean. If it's got any rust or pitting you need to replace the piston not wire brush it. Rust or pitting means the plating is gone in areas.
No after pic? Keep an eye out for leaks at the piston as no matter how well you removed the rust, it likely has microscopic edges that will scuff the seal.
Hence the edit of my post less than 5 minutes after my post...
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