ATE for me.
Brake rotors - how much are you paying to machine them?
- Thread starter BobandWeave
- Start date
Fair enough - however, the machine and its maintenance aren't free. Neither is retail square footage. It's possible the math works.
The irony is, they also sell new rotors. Maybe the profit margin on turning them is higher than they get on parts.
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- Nov 20, 2021
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I'll typically do it if the rotors measure above the scrap spec enough to safely cut them, or if it's going to be a farm/scrap/beat around vehicle for my friend. I charge $90/pair. I turned the fronts on my Silverado and they've done well but under moderate downhill braking they are starting to pulsate again. When it gets bad enough I'll toss them and replace with new.
My wifes 2012 Santa Fe needed new tires years ago. Car still had original brakes (maybe 75K, still OEM tires. Best OEM tires we ever had.) Front pads still had a little meat on them, but not a lot. We were at a Firestone tires. They had a brake special going on and since we were putting 4 new tires on, they said they would resurface rotors and put NAPA Pro pads on the front for an extra $89, plus a 10% military discount. It was middle of winter, so I said go for it. They used one of those machines that don't require rotor to be removed. Pretty cool watching it.
Only time I have ever resurfaced my rotors in last 20 years probably. I used the above pads for 100K and then swapped over to Bosch rotors and pads. Somwhere in between, I forget mileage, but over 100K, I did rear pads. Just a pad slap with Raybestos standard ceramic. Worked fine. Put around 90K on that Bosch combo, then son wrecked the car.
Only time I have ever resurfaced my rotors in last 20 years probably. I used the above pads for 100K and then swapped over to Bosch rotors and pads. Somwhere in between, I forget mileage, but over 100K, I did rear pads. Just a pad slap with Raybestos standard ceramic. Worked fine. Put around 90K on that Bosch combo, then son wrecked the car.
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Also true. I normally guesstimate how much it's gonna cost me per year to go with one or the other option for products life, and how much care and work is expected on my part.
If I expect new rotors to last 10 years then $40/year may be a better option than $35/rotor to turn with 3-4 years life expectancy and then spending again to buy new rotors to last another 6-7 years.
When cheapo rotors came out, the material was junk. Nowadays RockAuto offers a great selection with good prices. I match those Geospec, or whatever, rotors with factory pads for a good solution.
If you eventually go with new oem rotors get them cryo treated. Alot of scca drivers at least several years ago recommended it especially if it's a spec class that doesn't allow for upgraded, high performance rotors. I've been told that they last significantly longer.
Not worth it. Just get new rotors. Coated rotors are awesome
Yep.
Yup. I just checked to see how much name brand rotors cost at Rock Auto. For my wife's Outback, quality rotors from Power Stop, AC Delco, Centric, and even Brembo, can be had for about $40.
Considering that I haven't always been exactly thrilled with how turned rotors have turned out, I'll spend the extra few dollars, and get new ones. Perhaps there are cheap rotors that don't last. But I've never dealt with that. I keep cars for a pretty long time, but I have never driven a car long enough to have to replace rotors more than once.
Can't remember what I paid, but machine shop guy said you can buy new for $15/each more. We machined them anyway, because the car was needed, and the parts would have to be ordered. Poor planning on my part. I didn't think they would need machining, though.
Nissan Sentra rear. Drums, not discs. They adjust when braking, while backing up. Only, if you brake lightly, like me, they don't adjust. One shoe was on the rivets, the other, never fully scuffed. I taught my son, who was driving the car at that time, to do a couple of fast stops, when backing up, every so often, after we learned this lesson.
Nissan Sentra rear. Drums, not discs. They adjust when braking, while backing up. Only, if you brake lightly, like me, they don't adjust. One shoe was on the rivets, the other, never fully scuffed. I taught my son, who was driving the car at that time, to do a couple of fast stops, when backing up, every so often, after we learned this lesson.
I found exactly one O'Reilly's near me that still turns rotors, and a bunch of other locations that don't. Autozone and Advance apparently don't do it at all. And even at that one O'Reilly's, it's on a once-a-week schedule when the one older part-time guy is there. But he does a great job on everything I've brought him.
I keep reading this and it couldn't be further from the truth.
With only a handful of exceptions, EVERY brake rotor produced in the last 50 years allows 2.0mm between new thickness and discard thickness. That can be consumed either by wear or by machining, or a combination of the two.
That is the only way I would consider having rotors or drums turned. It has been a long time that I have seen a brake lathe at an auto parts store. But the last few times I have, I was not impressed with the skill level of the employee running it.
Agreed.
I can't account for what @bullwinkle claims about GM rotors, but every set of aftermarket rotors that I have bought, measure right at specification - just like the OEM rotors.
I can verify the Express/Savana 2500/3500 ones always seemed to be worn out when it was time for pads, and I've had several uncoated ones rust the fins enough to start falling apart. Did have a Ram rear set of rotors do it too, but the Fords have been pretty good. Coated rotors FTW every time, and there's already a set of Wagner coated ones here for my Express...
I'll have to check on them. I still have Parts Plus Smyth Automotive w/2 machine stops still open in Milford & Pisgah OH-need to ask them if they can still do them.
Living in a dryer climate, I have never experienced anything but superficial surface rust on rotors. As far as wear, I measure rotor thickness before each brake job, and have found that rotors can easily last through three sets of pads, with plenty of thickness to spare.
My experience has been that rotor replacement has always been due to warping, glazing, or some other condition. I don't think I've ever had to replace rotors because of thickness wearing down.
Well lets think about this...that is $70 to turn a pair of rotors. That is about 0.3-0.5 hours of labor depending on the shops labor rate. I'd say that is pretty good since it will probably take a half hour from start to finish for the rotors to get turned. Most shops will charge an hour minimum for small jobs.
That said...I'd just get a set of new rotors from RockAuto.
That said...I'd just get a set of new rotors from RockAuto.