Is this '55 chevy 210 worth anything over scrap value ?
- Thread starter spasm3
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JHZR2
Staff member
Wow that is so neat!
I bet you coukd get a crowd of BITOG folks to travel to help you get it clean and maybe running!
Get lots of pics of the door bottoms, floorboards, frame, and any known rust prone areas. All older cars have their spots where rust is typical, so investigate those.
Id want to put a ratchet on the crank and see if the engine will turn. That may be a significant factor.
The loss of paint on the roof is slightly concerning, just because you want to stabilize it.
But so much if it seems so clean for the age. Has it lived outdoors forever? Will actually washing it result in a flood inside?
I bet you coukd get a crowd of BITOG folks to travel to help you get it clean and maybe running!
Get lots of pics of the door bottoms, floorboards, frame, and any known rust prone areas. All older cars have their spots where rust is typical, so investigate those.
Id want to put a ratchet on the crank and see if the engine will turn. That may be a significant factor.
The loss of paint on the roof is slightly concerning, just because you want to stabilize it.
But so much if it seems so clean for the age. Has it lived outdoors forever? Will actually washing it result in a flood inside?
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Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
That thing looks like a blast. I’d keep it and just clean it up really good and leave it as original as possible and drive it.
It was running when I parked it. That was 25 years ago. It would need a new fuel tank and clean the carb.
The clutch is rusted , so it will need work or replacement.
The other neat fact is;
I'm the second owner.
JHZR2
Staff member
BITOG east coast project weekend!
No it wouldn't. Nothing wrong with those brakes back then and nothing wrong with them now.
JHZR2
Staff member
In the interest of originality I agree I wouldn’t want to change these things, at least the disc conversion. The multi line setup might be prudent though if it’s going to be driven much.
I've driven it with the drums on 4 corners working properly, and they are inadequate for modern traffic. A single line master cylinder is just not prudent.
What's the difference between modern traffic and 1955 traffic such that the brakes would have to be changed?
While I'd love to see this thing stay 100% stock, it wouldn't be prudent to drive it other than on Sundays. People have been driving poorly in every decade, but they can do it all the better today--faster accelerating, deaccelerating, and swerving.
The amount of car space's you'd have to leave in front of you to deal with sudden stops... won't exist, as people don't leave holes like that in bumper to bumper traffic.
If I do the route of keeping it, I'll have up my SAE tool game. I have some from years ago, but will need some impact.
My real issue, is TIME. I work in healthcare, when I'm not working, I'm tired lol. Putting in lots of hours. Time is the issue.
My real issue, is TIME. I work in healthcare, when I'm not working, I'm tired lol. Putting in lots of hours. Time is the issue.
People drove the same 50 years ago. Only difference is there are more distractions today. Phone, text, email, etc. Brakes are only part of the equation, but if someone is not paying attention hits you in the rear or swerves into your side, they won't help you. Drum brakes in good condition can lock up the wheels like any disc brake will. The only advantage to discs is more fade resistance, so unless the car will be driven on mountain roads frequently, it's not a great concern.
JHZR2
Staff member
I do think it’s true that cars have stronger brakes these days. Maybe not all of them. And you still need to stop the tractor trailer behind you, which isn’t going to stop on a dime…
Tires have a lot to do with it and so does abs.
Nice patina. Don't try to make it something it is not. I would not restore it, or drop in a V8. Only original once. My mother had one, 1955, three on the tree six cylinder. Clean it up, brakes, brake lines, tires, water pump, gas tank/carb cleanout, etc. Sand the rusted roof, then clearcoat or keep it oiled down. The only thing to consider IMHO, would be front discs along with master cylinder if you are going to use it and are not comfortable with front drums. My first cars from the early 1960's had drums all around. I remember adjusting them, on a regular basis, and leaving room to car in front. I thought that front disc's were the thing to have in the later 1960's.
i would rebuild anything that looks like original parts and not replace with parts store stuff.
If you do convert it to dual MC and disc, keep the stock stuff.
If you do convert it to dual MC and disc, keep the stock stuff.
A previous 1957 owner here…
the 4 wheels have equal braking force, or mine did. Fronts dishes out just as much, and no more than, the rear. The rears would lock up long before the front would reach full potential. You were truly limited in how much brake force could be applied before the rear locked. I …slid… through an intersection one day at 35 mph because I jabbed the pedal for a yellow light. Did it right in front of a police car. Of course he came up to my window. He said, “I saw you trying to stop it from an appropriate distance, and it just wouldn’t. please make sure you get a feel for this one and leave more room.” I was grateful for his kindness as my heart thumped through my chest AND I didn’t hit anyone.
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