It’s going to get a 572 and discs in all four corners. Doesn’t matter what the current engine looks like. 
Is this '55 chevy 210 worth anything over scrap value ?
- Thread starter spasm3
- Start date
No proportioning valve? Drove a '72 Dart for years to the late 90's and never felt it unsafe or lacking braking power, and it had manual brakes.
That old 4 door 55 will get more looks than a new Corvette! More people “ especially the old guys like me “ can relate to it. Get it in good mechanical shape, clean it up, then take it on an occasional Sunday night date night with the wife. Trust me….she’ll love it!
That’s right…along with a dual master cylinder a proportioning valve can be added.
Correct. No proportioning valve. Single circuit to all 4 cylinders. Big ‘ole drum brakes on every corner, manually adjusted. Oem service interval was 1000 miles for brake tightening and chassis lubrication Iirc. if you didn’t adjust the brakes regularly, the pedal would indeed run out of travel. Generator and distributor bearings were also on the frequent flier list for a squirt of oil into their pop-top lubrication tubes.
edit. Bring back the high-beam floor switch!!
The front wheel cylinders have 1-1/8" bore, and the rear wheel cylinders have 1" bore. I always thought it was this way to make the front brakes a little stronger.
It’s been a while - if mine were a different size I never caught it. I did absolutely learn that the back would lock up first, and it just didn’t stop anywhere near as well as everything else I was driving in the 80s along side it. ? ?
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2022
- Messages
- 770
I added a 1⅛" aftermarket dual master and vacuum booster to my 1959 Fairlane 500's 4 way drums. It stops very well, and straight. Literally same pedal feel as a modern car. It'll nose dive and lock up if stabbed.
I see no point in a disk conversion unless you have long grades and brake fade is a concern.
Wheel cylinders are the same diameter on all 4, but the front linings are 2.5" wide while the rear are 1.75" I think.
I see no point in a disk conversion unless you have long grades and brake fade is a concern.
Wheel cylinders are the same diameter on all 4, but the front linings are 2.5" wide while the rear are 1.75" I think.
The body spears are all there......
Do you hang an aftermarket AC under the dash or go original?
So much street rod stuff out there.
Do you hang an aftermarket AC under the dash or go original?
So much street rod stuff out there.
It has no a/c.
Share more history details! Was it left out in that field for 25 years? Who was the first owner? Why’d you park it?
I bought it from the original owner, who was a college professor.
I drove it around for a year or so. I realized it was not safe for my infant son to be in, especially with the original brakes. I parked it under and open carport. I had intentions of restoring the car, or making it a resto mod with a modern drive train. Life happens, i worked a lot of hours over the last 30 years, and i still do. The car fell out of my focus as my time was split with family and job.
I now have to decide what to do with it.
You kidding me? I'm in New England well north of the rust belt. Old cars like that are hard to come by. This needs a good power washing and an interior detail and its good to go! I love how the people in Cali, the desert or southwest say this is a hard pass. You guys don't know how good you have it!
From the pictures there doesn't seem to be any rot...just surface rust (patina). If the floors are solid and the frame is good this is a perfect project!
Pressure wash the grime/loose rust off of the body, engine bay and frame. Degrease the heck out of it. Paint the undercarriage and engine bay with POR-15 of similar. Clean the heck out of the paint and put a clear coat on the rust. Wax the hell out of it and you have a survivor!
New carpet and door panels and you have an awesome start to a project. You'll probably have to replace every rubber bushing and service just about every moving part in the car but I consider this a solid foundation.
I'm a buyer and would do exactly what I said above if you are interested in moving on from it.
From the pictures there doesn't seem to be any rot...just surface rust (patina). If the floors are solid and the frame is good this is a perfect project!
Pressure wash the grime/loose rust off of the body, engine bay and frame. Degrease the heck out of it. Paint the undercarriage and engine bay with POR-15 of similar. Clean the heck out of the paint and put a clear coat on the rust. Wax the hell out of it and you have a survivor!
New carpet and door panels and you have an awesome start to a project. You'll probably have to replace every rubber bushing and service just about every moving part in the car but I consider this a solid foundation.
I'm a buyer and would do exactly what I said above if you are interested in moving on from it.
This is one of those rare unicorn examples where a car turns out to be a great investment!
More importantly, did you check the oil and see if the engine is locked? It's really not that bad and almost looks drivable.
Does it even have an oil filter?
Does it even have an oil filter?
Engine ran fine when parked 25 years ago. Lower end bearings had been replaced by the original owner.
It does not have a full flow oil filter, they didn't back then. It does have a bypass type filter, I don't know it it is original or aftermarket from the 50's era
I'd bet that as long as water didn't find its way in the engine, which I doubt it would have since the hood was on...it will spin fine.
Maybe take the plugs out and soak the pistons in a good detergent/lubricant like 50/50 diesel and ATF. Let it sit for a couple days and keep adding to it every now and then. Drain the oil and put some fresh stuff in there and take the belts off. Spin it by hand with the spark plugs out just in case there is some oil left in the cylinders.
Is this a 6V or 12V electric system?
Maybe take the plugs out and soak the pistons in a good detergent/lubricant like 50/50 diesel and ATF. Let it sit for a couple days and keep adding to it every now and then. Drain the oil and put some fresh stuff in there and take the belts off. Spin it by hand with the spark plugs out just in case there is some oil left in the cylinders.
Is this a 6V or 12V electric system?
i think its 12v, but i will have to look, i can't remember.
Yeah, Chevy went 12V in 1955.
Similar threads
