is my LS1 gonna die

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bonnie john

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if i dump the orange DEX and instal regular "green" glycol (in a 50% concentration) or a universal coolant?

and what procedure will give the best results?

t/y in advance, johnny

p.s. no obvious probs atm, 6 y/o, 50,ooo miles
 
Most of the universal coolants are Dexcool. If you decide to change over to regular green, you have to FLUSH it completely, or you will have problems.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
universal should be fine.

No, universal coolants, SupetTech LL, Prestone AM, Peal LL and EL, all have 2-EHA acid, same as Deathcool.
 
Flush it really really well I like Prestones Reverse flushing do it yourself kit. Then drain the block and the rad! Then refill with any coolant of your choice. I would probably consider Amsoil's coolant in place of what is in their now!
 
What year LS1? ... I'm assuming it came factory filled with DexCool? Why change? ... my 02 Vette has DexCool and when I changed it a couple years ago the inside of the cooling system looked like brand new. No problems with DexCool here.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Go get the good (gold) stuff from your local Ford dealer. Then at least you KNOW what it is.


Its G-05, and that's exactly what I'd do. But if you're willing to do 2-year coolant change intervals, conventional high-silicate antifreeze would work fine too.

Anything's better than DexCool or Prestone "universal."
 
I'd continue to use Dexcool. Car was designed around it and things are much better today with Dexcool than in years past where it got a bad name. Plus, if you are still under warranty you'd better use it in case you have engine issues later on. They will not honor your warranty if non-approved fluids are used.

If you do decide to change to green - heed the warnings the other say - GET ALL the dexcool out! Any mixture will foul things up fast.
 
I was lead to believe the problem with the organic acid type was in that it deteriorates the nylon that they used in intake manifolds and gaskets with gm.
Just according to all the research i can find when it gets exposed to a little air it becomes more acidic and everything goes to [censored].
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: patmanz28
I was lead to believe the problem with the organic acid type was in that it deteriorates the nylon that they used in intake manifolds and gaskets with gm.
Just according to all the research i can find when it gets exposed to a little air it becomes more acidic and everything goes to [censored].


partly true. The other part it was just plan a bad design. The bolts that kept the gasket under compression would loosen up a bit over time. Allowing greater ingression of the coolant and possibly more air into the system. This is why the fix it kits come with new bolts with pre applied lock tight on them.
 
Originally Posted By: wapacz
Originally Posted By: patmanz28
I was lead to believe the problem with the organic acid type was in that it deteriorates the nylon that they used in intake manifolds and gaskets with gm.
Just according to all the research i can find when it gets exposed to a little air it becomes more acidic and everything goes to [censored].


partly true. The other part it was just plan a bad design. The bolts that kept the gasket under compression would loosen up a bit over time. Allowing greater ingression of the coolant and possibly more air into the system. This is why the fix it kits come with new bolts with pre applied lock tight on them.


If that is the reason the IM gaskets failed on nearly all the GM 3.1 and 3.4 V-6s why didn't they have coustomers come in and have the bolts tightened? That would have been better for GM than letting all the IM gaskets fail. The bolts loosened when the gaskets began to fail not vice-versa. The gaskets were designed to be firm enough to torque against. Dexcool has been PROVEN to degrade IM gaskets that came in contact with it. Unless the IM gasket is made of metal, it will be destroyed by the 2EHA in Dexcool.

Please stop telling people that it doesn't happen, because here are some pictures that show it is so. Unless you can prove it doesn't happen, then keep your opinions to yourself.

http://www.zillamotorsports.com/DEX/
 
Originally Posted By: bonnie john
t/y zg

would the LS1 be effected the same ? i don't know, is there coolant flowing through the intake manifold ?



It has a dry intake AFAIK.
 
Originally Posted By: ZGRider
Originally Posted By: wapacz
Originally Posted By: patmanz28
I was lead to believe the problem with the organic acid type was in that it deteriorates the nylon that they used in intake manifolds and gaskets with gm.
Just according to all the research i can find when it gets exposed to a little air it becomes more acidic and everything goes to [censored].


partly true. The other part it was just plan a bad design. The bolts that kept the gasket under compression would loosen up a bit over time. Allowing greater ingression of the coolant and possibly more air into the system. This is why the fix it kits come with new bolts with pre applied lock tight on them.


If that is the reason the IM gaskets failed on nearly all the GM 3.1 and 3.4 V-6s why didn't they have coustomers come in and have the bolts tightened? That would have been better for GM than letting all the IM gaskets fail. The bolts loosened when the gaskets began to fail not vice-versa. The gaskets were designed to be firm enough to torque against. Dexcool has been PROVEN to degrade IM gaskets that came in contact with it. Unless the IM gasket is made of metal, it will be destroyed by the 2EHA in Dexcool.

Please stop telling people that it doesn't happen, because here are some pictures that show it is so. Unless you can prove it doesn't happen, then keep your opinions to yourself.

http://www.zillamotorsports.com/DEX/


One why do the new bolts come with lock tight now if they only loosen when the gasket is already dead. Secondly I never said it was the total cause of the problem but a contributing factor to the problem.
 
Anyone think that some of the dexcool problems is that people are following the recommendation of 100k miles or 150k miles or whatever the OEM is recommending?

Having 5-10 year old coolant in your car is not good. Regardless of the mileage. It is just enough to get you out of warranty period before you start having problems at your own expense.

I change coolant every two years, I use the supertech walmart universal coolant, and bottles of walmart distilled water.

A 50/50 solution.

I simply drain the radiator and refill, not even a full flush.

I have never had a coolant problem in any car.

With about 8 bucks of maintenance every two years, other people can have clean coolant as well.
 
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