Is Liquimoly Overrated?

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Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TiGeo
6 qts of green 5W40 goodness after using LM's engine flush. Good for 7.5K miles of sending it. 🤣

Noack: 11%
KV100: 14
HTHS: min 3.5

Their 5W50 version of that oil has KV100 18.6 and HTHS 3.7. I mean, it looks like race to the bottom.


My car seems to like it just fine. This oil looks almost identical to the Leichtlauf except the NOAK - LL is 10%.
 
Originally Posted by TiGeo
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TiGeo
6 qts of green 5W40 goodness after using LM's engine flush. Good for 7.5K miles of sending it. 🤣

Noack: 11%
KV100: 14
HTHS: min 3.5

Their 5W50 version of that oil has KV100 18.6 and HTHS 3.7. I mean, it looks like race to the bottom.


My car seems to like it just fine. This oil looks almost identical to the Leichtlauf except the NOAK - LL is 10%.


What specifically is the issue with the numbers you posted? NOAK too high? I'm not v. familiar with the other two - KV100 and HTHS so please help me understand. Further, what other VW502 00 oil has substantially different (better?) numbers?
 
Originally Posted by TiGeo
Originally Posted by TiGeo
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TiGeo
6 qts of green 5W40 goodness after using LM's engine flush. Good for 7.5K miles of sending it. 🤣

Noack: 11%
KV100: 14
HTHS: min 3.5

Their 5W50 version of that oil has KV100 18.6 and HTHS 3.7. I mean, it looks like race to the bottom.


My car seems to like it just fine. This oil looks almost identical to the Leichtlauf except the NOAK - LL is 10%.


What specifically is the issue with the numbers you posted? NOAK too high? I'm not v. familiar with the other two - KV100 and HTHS so please help me understand. Further, what other VW502 00 oil has substantially different (better?) numbers?

Kinematic viscosity at 100c (KV100) is pretty high, but HTHS is not fallowing that. Think about it, Castrol Edge 0W40 has KV100 13.1 and HTHS of 3.7, while Noack is 9.1%. Valvoline 5W40 European vehicle has KV100 13.1, HTHS 3.7 and Noack 10%. That means better base stock. HTHS is what matters, not grade. So Liqui Moly 5W50 has same HTHS as Castol Edge 0W40 but KV100 is 18.6. I mean for the love of god.
Which is better? Any VW502.00 you can get in Wal MArt, including Castrol Edge 5W40 which I think is also "whatever" oil. Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 that you can get in Advance Auto Parts on sale with filter. Motul X-Cess 5W40 etc.
 
I just filled with black bottle Edge 5w40 from Wally's this time around. It meets a lot of high specs and boasts Ti as well. Will be interesting to see what it looks like in UOA compared to the Castrol OE 5w40, which works fine, good UOAs, but has nothing in it to speak of. Cheaped down stuff to meet 502 and nothing else I would guess.

The Wally's black bottle meets 229.5 and A40, is also still rated LL-01 for those having trouble finding LL-01 anymore. I doubt the OE 5w40 could meet those.
 
Pardon the ignorance - but still not getting it. Help me understand. I get Noack - lower is better or less "evaporation" - correct? So over 10 is worse than 9 like the big-name Euro oils (Castrol/M1). Check. Walk me through KV100 and HTHS and why 14/3.5 is a problem?
 
One other cool thing about LM vs. the other companies - customer support. On their website you get emails with names of their folks. I emailed their stateside product guy regarding their engine flush, got a response 5 min later.
 
Originally Posted by TiGeo
One other cool thing about LM vs. the other companies - customer support. On their website you get emails with names of their folks. I emailed their stateside product guy regarding their engine flush, got a response 5 min later.

A product that apparently is doing nothing for you, per your posts.

The containers on your garage shelf do look impressive to your neighbors however.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by TiGeo
One other cool thing about LM vs. the other companies - customer support. On their website you get emails with names of their folks. I emailed their stateside product guy regarding their engine flush, got a response 5 min later.

A product that apparently is doing nothing for you, per your posts.

The containers on your garage shelf do look impressive to your neighbors however.



For $10 it isn't hurting and clearly a why not to me. Garage street cred is important during these trying times.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Not to everyone of course. But if that's what prompts you to buy one oil over another then by all means go for it.


No more or less a reason than 95% of the reasons I read on BITOG considering most cars will run forever on Supertech from Walmart. At least I'm honest.
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted by TiGeo
No more or less a reason than 95% of the reasons I read on BITOG considering most cars will run forever on Supertech from Walmart. At least I'm honest.
grin2.gif


Right, so given that then the answer to this thread is yes, Liqimoly is overrated.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by TiGeo
No more or less a reason than 95% of the reasons I read on BITOG considering most cars will run forever on Supertech from Walmart. At least I'm honest.
grin2.gif


Right, so given that then the answer to this thread is yes, Liqimoly is overrated.


That jug looks exotic...lol
 
Basically. People are butthurt that someone likes an oil that isn't sold at Wallyworld and costs a little more.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by TiGeo
No more or less a reason than 95% of the reasons I read on BITOG considering most cars will run forever on Supertech from Walmart. At least I'm honest.
grin2.gif


Right, so given that then the answer to this thread is yes, Liqimoly is overrated.


Define "Overrated". You mean overpriced. I'm glad I get to choose how to spend my money. With FCP Euro's 100% replacement guarantee, the change kit costs me $21 In shipping. Way cheaper than any high-quality change I can get anywhere else. I'd say that's an amazing value.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by OilReport99
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by TiGeo
No more or less a reason than 95% of the reasons I read on BITOG considering most cars will run forever on Supertech from Walmart. At least I'm honest.
grin2.gif


Right, so given that then the answer to this thread is yes, Liqimoly is overrated.


That jug looks exotic...lol

Exotic!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted by TiGeo
Pardon the ignorance - but still not getting it. Help me understand. I get Noack - lower is better or less "evaporation" - correct? So over 10 is worse than 9 like the big-name Euro oils (Castrol/M1). Check. Walk me through KV100 and HTHS and why 14/3.5 is a problem?

Walk you through? Hundreds of threads here about it.
But, there are two ways to get high HTHS, which is what REALLY matters. Manufacturer could go cheap base stock, high KV100, or more expensive or expensive base and lower KV100. You really do not want too high of KV100. You can google why HTHS is important, numerous explanations, some more complex some more simplistic. But, all European approvals are not interested in grade (except VW504.00/507.00 which limits oils to 0/5W30 and min. HTHS 3.5) but HTHS of min. 3.5 (let's talk just approvals based on ACEA A3/B3 B4, C3). VW502.00 approval is based on HTHS, not KV100 and with that grade. They want HTHS of 3.5. Will that be 0W30 5W30, 0W40 or 5W40 and even 10W40, is irrelevant to them. So, high KV100, low HTHS indicates not such good base stock, and Noack also confirms that in your LM.
Now, that oil is fine in your vehicle. However, why getting that when I can get for $22 5qt jug of superior oil in Wal Mart? Would I put that oil in my Tiguan or BMW? Sure! Eliminate choices like Mobil1 0W40, Castrol Edge 0W30/40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Pentosin HP 5W30/40, Motul X-Clean or x-Cess, etc. and yeah, I will put it in.
Does it bother me? No. But, you put it here, which means you expect answer. So, not all answers are going to be what you expect: approval.
 
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by TiGeo
Pardon the ignorance - but still not getting it. Help me understand. I get Noack - lower is better or less "evaporation" - correct? So over 10 is worse than 9 like the big-name Euro oils (Castrol/M1). Check. Walk me through KV100 and HTHS and why 14/3.5 is a problem?

Walk you through? Hundreds of threads here about it.
But, there are two ways to get high HTHS, which is what REALLY matters. Manufacturer could go cheap base stock, high KV100, or more expensive or expensive base and lower KV100. You really do not want too high of KV100. You can google why HTHS is important, numerous explanations, some more complex some more simplistic. But, all European approvals are not interested in grade (except VW504.00/507.00 which limits oils to 0/5W30 and min. HTHS 3.5) but HTHS of min. 3.5 (let's talk just approvals based on ACEA A3/B3 B4, C3). VW502.00 approval is based on HTHS, not KV100 and with that grade. They want HTHS of 3.5. Will that be 0W30 5W30, 0W40 or 5W40 and even 10W40, is irrelevant to them. So, high KV100, low HTHS indicates not such good base stock, and Noack also confirms that in your LM.
Now, that oil is fine in your vehicle. However, why getting that when I can get for $22 5qt jug of superior oil in Wal Mart? Would I put that oil in my Tiguan or BMW? Sure! Eliminate choices like Mobil1 0W40, Castrol Edge 0W30/40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40, Pentosin HP 5W30/40, Motul X-Clean or x-Cess, etc. and yeah, I will put it in.
Does it bother me? No. But, you put it here, which means you expect answer. So, not all answers are going to be what you expect: approval.


Ok, so Group 3 base stock vs. the more Group 4 is really all this is about - got it. No, I don't need anyone's approval for what oil I use, but I do like to understand it and will be doing some reading up on HTHS to get more familiar with it. The idea of oil superiority based on this stuff has no metric, to me, in the real-world i.e. will running XYZ oil cause my car to run to the desired mileage/time or the better question, will running XYZ oil cause my car to NOT run to the desired mileage/time? Changing oil at 5-7.5K, will it really matter if I use M1 0W40 or LM XYZ 5W40 with worse HTHS? Nobody f'ing knows but it's sure a great debate on BITOG!
 
I wouldnt worry to much TiGeo I think there is only actually 2 experts left on this forum, the rest are just armchair mechanics/engineers. They can spin and critizize anything they want on here because its just a forum and the mighty $ is no 1.

This forum is great for finding the best current deals on cheap motor oil at walmart. Also, its great to find the cheapest possible oil you can use and feel happy about as a great purchase. Low to high HTHS has more to do with fuel economy than anything else especially around 3.5 where excellent protection is virtually guarenteed. NOACK is the new big trend for what is good oil here even though the difference between all the quality oils is miniscule in actual measurement. Thats just information anyone can google not some secret knowledge only known here by some random who construes its meaning.

No one even knows whats in the oils here, just the additive packs. I would be trusting the LM engineers who produce engine oil for only high end, modified and racing vehicles. I have over 400rwkw in my car and the Molygen is the best oil I have run and i've tried all the majors. LM is super consistent and very dependable as an engine oil. I have tested on roads, dyno's and city driving. But like I said dont believe me, just trust the company you know is super professional.
 
Originally Posted by 400rwkw
I wouldnt worry to much TiGeo I think there is only actually 2 experts left on this forum, the rest are just armchair mechanics/engineers. They can spin and critizize anything they want on here because its just a forum and the mighty $ is no 1.

This forum is great for finding the best current deals on cheap motor oil at walmart. Also, its great to find the cheapest possible oil you can use and feel happy about as a great purchase. Low to high HTHS has more to do with fuel economy than anything else especially around 3.5 where excellent protection is virtually guarenteed. NOACK is the new big trend for what is good oil here even though the difference between all the quality oils is miniscule in actual measurement. Thats just information anyone can google not some secret knowledge only known here by some random who construes its meaning.

No one even knows whats in the oils here, just the additive packs. I would be trusting the LM engineers who produce engine oil for only high end, modified and racing vehicles. I have over 400rwkw in my car and the Molygen is the best oil I have run and i've tried all the majors. LM is super consistent and very dependable as an engine oil. I have tested on roads, dyno's and city driving. But like I said dont believe me, just trust the company you know is super professional.


Very good comments - you nailed my feeling on it. My car pushes just over 300hp with a tune/bolt-ons and is driven v. hard for a daily and has been running great on the LM products/additives. It does seem that the forum is all about the cheapest oils (including rebates) at Walmart and the minutiae of Group 3 vs. 4. Still good info here and I appreciate the folks' opinions here. I wish more folks that are pushing their vehicles and doing upgrades would participate vs. basic daily driven commuter types.
 
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