Is Anyone Else Disappointed with modern engine oils?

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The last few posts of this thread went into an odd left-field, twilight zone-esque place…

On topic, I’m pleasantly impressed by the current state of engine oils. HPL, Amsoil, Valvoline Restore and Protect, Mobil 1 and Pennzoil’s offerings have us spoiled for choice. When I was young, I just plopped Castrol GTX into vehicles because I thought the commercials were cool. It’s likely why my rear main seal on my Chevy 2.8 started leaking and why I seized a valve in my Nissan VG30E. My first foray into synthetics was buying Mobil 1 on a whim at Walmart and being impressed by the remarkable difference in how smoothly my engine ran while using it compared to the GTX.

Now I’m using tailor made lubricants suited for specific purposes, nearly all HPL and some Amsoil. The internal cleaning and reduction of oil consumption in my Navigator has been nothing short of spectacular. Running a mostly air cooled motorcycle engine for 20,000mi on an oil as I’ve done was previously unheard of and still draws ire and scrutiny from the mostly unintentionally ignorant Harley crowd. The oil in my direct injection, twin-turbo Mercedes ran for 10,000mi and didn’t hardly flinch and is now going for 20,000mi. My Honda HRX217VKA Push Mower has been using the same oil for years that is still golden colored and the engine runs like a top.

It’s a great time to be alive in the lubricants realm (and other realms to be sure!) and we are all spoiled for choice.
 
239,000 miles on my Jaguar X-Type using modern engine oils. And that's on an engine known for connecting rod bearing failures and early demise. No signs of oil use, timing chain problems, bearing issues or unusual noises. Just buttery smooth operation.

Just keep in mind, I don't use low viscosity oils.

While not a great picture, looking around with a flashlight shows perfect cleanliness. Not even a hint of sludge or varnish.

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still we havent learned about your favorite oil
 
I agree, ESP 0w30 is likely the best future-proof oil for new cars, but the FS 0w40 is pretty much the universal equivalent for <2020 vehicles.

I’m mainly just going by the recently posted data that showed the average car was nearing 15 years old. Obviously, some of the newer cars/trucks with GPF/DPF will need the lower ash. So we have co-crowned winners, but both Mobil 1 oils… a testament to their extensive R&D.
both oils are available here in europe

what about ESP X4 0-40 , best from both worlds!
 
Always wondered, if an engine is set with a dry sump with a huge reservoir that allows for an oil change while the engine is running and a fuel system that will be refillable while the engine is running and same for the cooling so it can be kept running for years - will it die from mechanichal stress first, or from wear ?
👀
 
I'm definitely no expert, but based on experiences from my youth in the 1960s, given the engines we had in Plymouths, Chevys and Fords, from the 225 slant six to big block 428, 440 and 454 gas guzzlers, and the types of oils we had to choose from, we were ecstatic to get to 100,000 miles on an engine, even with leaks here and there and the beginnings of white smoke out the exhaust. Oil and filter changes were every 2000-2500 miles because, well, after about 1000 miles the oil looked like black paint.

Since the 1990s, I have not had a vehicle go less than 200,000 miles without any oil leaks, consumption, or oil related issuess. I've used synthetics since I started in that decade with my 1992 Explorer Edward Bauer, and it was well over 240,000 when it got totalled out by some bozo on his cell phone. Even with synthetics claiming 10,000 to 20,000 mile OCI, mine get changed at 4000-5000 depending on the type of driving.

We have gone from distributor points to electronic control modules, from one ignition coil to fire all the spark plugs, the Rochester Quadrajets and Carter Thermoquads to every plug having its own coil pack. Ignition timing, valve timing, fuel mixture, direct fuel injection, everything is controlled by computer. Our engines are made better (usually) and last longer (most of the time), and outperform engines of the 60s and early 70s. We expect a lot from engine oils today, and we should be grateful we're not still using straight SAE 30 or 10W40 like 50+ years ago.

Given the cost of vehicles these days, as my late grandfather would say, "The cheapest thing you can put in your vehicle is clean oil, and change it regularly."
 
I'm definitely no expert, but based on experiences from my youth in the 1960s, given the engines we had in Plymouths, Chevys and Fords, from the 225 slant six to big block 428, 440 and 454 gas guzzlers, and the types of oils we had to choose from, we were ecstatic to get to 100,000 miles on an engine, even with leaks here and there and the beginnings of white smoke out the exhaust. Oil and filter changes were every 2000-2500 miles because, well, after about 1000 miles the oil looked like black paint.

Since the 1990s, I have not had a vehicle go less than 200,000 miles without any oil leaks, consumption, or oil related issuess. I've used synthetics since I started in that decade with my 1992 Explorer Edward Bauer, and it was well over 240,000 when it got totalled out by some bozo on his cell phone. Even with synthetics claiming 10,000 to 20,000 mile OCI, mine get changed at 4000-5000 depending on the type of driving.

We have gone from distributor points to electronic control modules, from one ignition coil to fire all the spark plugs, the Rochester Quadrajets and Carter Thermoquads to every plug having its own coil pack. Ignition timing, valve timing, fuel mixture, direct fuel injection, everything is controlled by computer. Our engines are made better (usually) and last longer (most of the time), and outperform engines of the 60s and early 70s. We expect a lot from engine oils today, and we should be grateful we're not still using straight SAE 30 or 10W40 like 50+ years ago.

Given the cost of vehicles these days, as my late grandfather would say, "The cheapest thing you can put in your vehicle is clean oil, and change it regularly."
I’m not sure what a straight 30 or 10W-40 has to do with it. Modern ones can be quite capable and not the source of a failure due to a grade.
 
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He loves Mobil 1 Extended Performance.

To his credit, he's actually torn down multiple engines he has run on it and found them very clean.
so ,its a good choice for him..just bcs. of ANS as he claims.
well,its for us engines as i see,and 1 from japan.
no euro engines. is there a Mobil 1's Triple Action+ Formula oil with ANS containing? fs 0-40 perhaps? i think there was a conversation for new 0-40 esp?
 
no euro engines. is there a Mobil 1's Triple Action+ Formula oil with ANS containing? fs 0-40 perhaps? i think there was a conversation for new 0-40 esp?
That is a good question. I am not sure. I think the Euro certifications are so good that the base oil composition matters less. If they meet the spec then you know it'll be good without worrying as much about the base oils. @edyvw probably knows if any have AN.
 
We keep getting told modern oils are so advanced, over-engineered and overkill yet time and time again we see engines using good oil and good OCIs having sludge and varnish inside them as well as clogged rings. It's not even the typical low quality Kia/Hyundai cars. It's every brand: take any run of the mill car on the road with more than 20k miles, it has sludge and varnish forming inside and the owner will likely tell you it uses a quart or more between changes.

That thread about the 2 Broncos running HPL and Valvoline Restore and Protect really got me thinking. Why are modern engines so sludge/clogged ring prone? Are turbos cooking the oil? Is GDI diluting the viscosity and additives? Are OLMs not coming on soon enough? Are low tension rings spreading soot throughout the engine?
Or are these overhyped modern oils simply not up to the task of keeping modern engines clean?

I think Valvoline Restore and Protect and presumably it's new competition from Mobil 1 is the start of a new generation of oils that can actually handle keeping modern engines clean. Valvoline Restore and Protect has shown time and time again it can clean an already dirty engine but it looks like that level of active aggressive cleaning that other oils don't have is also needed just to keep a modern engine clean throughout it's life from 0 miles to junkyard.

But why did it take all this time just for us to only have 1 (possibly 2) adequate oils for these engines that have been in production for 10+ years since the mass market adoption of GDI, VVT and turbos?
You've obviously never disassembled a Mopar 318 or 360 V8 from decades ago. You could supply your charcoal grill for a year, grilling every night, with the carbon cleaned out of those. Those steaks and brats would taste like alpha male.
 
You've obviously never disassembled a Mopar 318 or 360 V8 from decades ago. You could supply your charcoal grill for a year, grilling every night, with the carbon cleaned out of those. Those steaks and brats would taste like alpha male.
You win today, lol. That was awesome. 😂
 
That is a good question. I am not sure. I think the Euro certifications are so good that the base oil composition matters less. If they meet the spec then you know it'll be good without worrying as much about the base oils. @edyvw probably knows if any have AN.
I think it does.
 
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