Is Anyone Else Disappointed with modern engine oils?

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We have a thread of problem engines. I’d say those are the ones to avoid or choose oil carefully.

 
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I have a Chevy Equinox with 21,0578 miles on it with the 2.00 TGI engine. I'm using Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 in it. I'm aware that some of these engines have oil use problems. This engine isn't useing any oil between OCI, which I do at 5,000 miles. So, I'm pleased with this oil and this car.
Also, I have an older car that I use Mobil 1 0w30 oil and I especially like this oil. So, I don't have an oil to be disappointed with.
 
I agree with Sammy. I was taught as a kid in the 70's to do 3K oil and filter changes, and I still do that in 2025. I just don't use conventional oil anymore. I buy synthetic oil from Walmart, whatever is on sale, be it Super Tech, Castrol, Mobil 1, Pennzoil. Also buy whatever filter is on sale. I use a sticker on the windshield, and pay no attention to the " oil minder" on the dash. I had just 1 oil burner due to stuck rings @ 300K. BG-109 cleaned it right up and stopped that problem. I clean or replace the PCV at least once a year. Never had a sludge problem. But, these are personal cars. I realize owning a Fleet for a business, this application could not apply.
 
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Higher piston speeds due to smaller displacement, short-stroke, higher RPM engines make the cylinder wall interface a much higher temperature. Thinner rings help some to reduce that interface temp, but then also have less surface and mass to transport heat away from the face of the rings. Hotter oils evaporate more quickly, and that’s where the crusty carbon comes from. At least that’s how I’m interpreting this.

An oil with very low volatility and high solubility, combined with adequate HT/HS should help eliminate stuck rings.
 
ICEs are not meant to be super clean. Most here are just OCD
I have a dirty confession to make. I'm on my 5th Honda automobile and have yet to pour synthetic in any of them. Now bear with me...none have been turbocharged or GDI. They all had the recommendation that synthetic was acceptable as long as the correct viscosity. I've run all sorts of conventional and synthetic blends, mostly QS, Shell, Mobil Super 5000 and Castrol GTX. All were run out to the OLM, yet none of theses ever burned oil at mileage up to 150k miles. All I could ever see down the fill hole was an orange or gold patina. Never any problems, including the 2010 Accord with the 3.5L v-6. I don't sweat a little varnish or patina. Currently running a 2025 model on Castrol GTX.
 
I KNOW WHY
Wanna know ?
Here, remember you read this HERE FIRST, from ME !!!

READY ???

Because no one has yet thought of releasing an oil with and additive that will REACT with the FUEL that will INEVITABLY get mixed into it from fuel dilution, and BOND with it to make MORE, EVEN YUMMIER oil !!!

There. That was easy, wasn't it.
Fuel and condensation are the new live-ins. Don't chase them. Don't cut their cable, don't steal their toilet paper. Put them to work.
 
Higher piston speeds due to smaller displacement, short-stroke, higher RPM engines make the cylinder wall interface a much higher temperature. Thinner rings help some to reduce that interface temp, but then also have less surface and mass to transport heat away from the face of the rings. Hotter oils evaporate more quickly, and that’s where the crusty carbon comes from. At least that’s how I’m interpreting this.

An oil with very low volatility and high solubility, combined with adequate HT/HS should help eliminate stuck rings.
thinking the same thing when thread opened - some are called 4️⃣ bangers for a reason !
 
I KNOW WHY
Wanna know ?
Here, remember you read this HERE FIRST, from ME !!!

READY ???

Because no one has yet thought of releasing an oil with and additive that will REACT with the FUEL that will INEVITABLY get mixed into it from fuel dilution, and BOND with it to make MORE, EVEN YUMMIER oil !!!

There. That was easy, wasn't it.
Fuel and condensation are the new live-ins. Don't chase them. Don't cut their cable, don't steal their toilet paper. Put them to work.
Wow dude 😳
I used to be a brilliant imbecile too... 😆 🤣
 
Seems as though a lot of folks are missing the point of the thread. I used to be in the same camp of "change your oil every 5k with any full synthetic and you'll be good to go" but that's just not the case anymore. We know not all oils are cut out the same, and pretending that picking any oil and changing it frequently is going to cut it, or even be "overkill" as I discussed in my first post is not working for many. I've never heard of so many engine-out jobs on run of the mill daily drivers until the last few years. All these timing chain/cam phaser jobs and engine replacements didn't occur back in the day. I think most oils on the shelf besides Valvoline Restore and Protect and maybe Mobil 1 ESP /Advanced Clean are not cut out for use in modern engines. What's the point of changing your oil every 5k if you're still going to end up at the mechanic footing a hefty bill like Joe Shmoe that goes to Jiffy Lube 2 months after his car tells him to change the oil?

Is that not the whole point of BITOG, to find the best oil for our vehicles to keep them running their best and for as long as possible and avoid costly repairs? If that's not the point then I'm not sure why we're on here spending our time discussing and researching motor oil.

You can't tell me an engine will last as long and run as clean on Supertech or normal Mobil 1 as it will with Valvoline Restore and Protect.
 
Compared to what I started with in the 1970s, today's oils are beautiful. Think of all the Esthers and Mollies we didn't know back then.
Certainly. I won't disagree that oils have come a long way. But so have engines, and the advancements in engines is seemingly outpacing the advancements in oil technology. Put 2025 oil in a 1970s car and it will run forever with no sludge and no oil related issues. Put 2025 oil in a 2025 car and it will sludge up and need a timing job at 100k. We'll probably have to run 2040 oil in 2025 cars to get the same results. Or just Valvoline Restore and Protect
 
Numerous failures when maintained as the manufacturer ordains in the manual is a sign of bad engineering, not an oil failure.

You talking about before or after warranty?

If before, I would agree.

If after, nope, it's a sign that the beancounters/marketing/legal department got hold of your vehicle and screwed it up for you.
 
Seems as though a lot of folks are missing the point of the thread. I used to be in the same camp of "change your oil every 5k with any full synthetic and you'll be good to go" but that's just not the case anymore. We know not all oils are cut out the same, and pretending that picking any oil and changing it frequently is going to cut it, or even be "overkill" as I discussed in my first post is not working for many. I've never heard of so many engine-out jobs on run of the mill daily drivers until the last few years. All these timing chain/cam phaser jobs and engine replacements didn't occur back in the day. I think most oils on the shelf besides Valvoline Restore and Protect and maybe Mobil 1 ESP /Advanced Clean are not cut out for use in modern engines. What's the point of changing your oil every 5k if you're still going to end up at the mechanic footing a hefty bill like Joe Shmoe that goes to Jiffy Lube 2 months after his car tells him to change the oil?

Is that not the whole point of BITOG, to find the best oil for our vehicles to keep them running their best and for as long as possible and avoid costly repairs? If that's not the point then I'm not sure why we're on here spending our time discussing and researching motor oil.

You can't tell me an engine will last as long and run as clean on Supertech or normal Mobil 1 as it will with Valvoline Restore and Protect.
I most certainly can tell you that the average run of the mill engine will last as long on the Walmart shelf oil as it will on Valvoline Restore and Protect if you change it every 5 to 10k miles ( I like 5k myself).

Anecdotal stories in the Internet are not evidence, and just because there are some models with engine defects doesn't mean the oil is the problem. Most cars go to the junkyard with decent running engines.
 
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