In other words off goes your OE filter in goes the Trasko and you have a bypass & full full set up all in one?
Thanks
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Is a Trasko a "bolt-on" dual purpose filter?
- Thread starter outrun
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The Trasko is a spin-on filter, just like any other off-the-shelf filter you buy for your car.
The difference: Rather than throwing the entire filter away, you unscrew it, replace the bypass filter element and rinse out the wire mesh screen. Then you screw it back together and screw it back on the car.
Yes it's a bypass/full flow filter all in one. The bypass element isn't that big so the recommended OCI is 10,000 miles.
The difference: Rather than throwing the entire filter away, you unscrew it, replace the bypass filter element and rinse out the wire mesh screen. Then you screw it back together and screw it back on the car.
Yes it's a bypass/full flow filter all in one. The bypass element isn't that big so the recommended OCI is 10,000 miles.
More specifically the recommended filter change interval is 10,000 miles. So far I have 50,0000 miles on my Mobil 1 oil. I send off a sample of oil for analysis before my filter change. So far, so good.quote:
Originally posted by slalom44:
Yes it's a bypass/full flow filter all in one. The bypass element isn't that big so the recommended OCI is 10,000 miles.
Is that 50,000 miles with one filter change with the Mobil 1. I use the Trasko also and it filters oil very well. I think I too can go with extended oil since using the Amsoil 0-30...I feel the oil too can go over 25,000 miles using this filter ...
outrun
Thread starter
So since it bolted to the factory oil filter port?
Was Install a cinch?
Do you think going back to the OEM filter set up will also be a cinch? (De-Installation)
Was Install a cinch?
Do you think going back to the OEM filter set up will also be a cinch? (De-Installation)
Read my previous post again. There are no "bolts" on a regular full-flow filter. Here's the instruction in simpler terms:
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Read my previous post again. There are no "bolts" on a regular full-flow filter. Here's the instruction in simpler terms:
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Read my previous post again. There are no "bolts" on a regular full-flow filter. Here's the instruction in simpler terms:
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Read my previous post again. There are no "bolts" on a regular full-flow filter. Here's the instruction in simpler terms:
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter to replace the bypass filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Read my previous post again. There are no "bolts" on a regular full-flow filter. Here's the instruction in simpler terms:
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter, pull out the used bypass filter media (looks like a small roll of toilet paper), drop in a new filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
Step 1: Remove your old filter by unscrewing it from the car.
Step 2: Screw the Trasko filter on the car the same way your old filter was installed.
The difference: instead of disposing of the entire used oil filter, you unscrew the Trasko filter, pull out the used bypass filter media (looks like a small roll of toilet paper), drop in a new filter media and clean out the mesh screen. It's pretty simple.
[ April 04, 2004, 01:42 PM: Message edited by: slalom44 ]
50,000 miles on the oil.quote:
Originally posted by Mamala Bay:
Is that 50,000 miles with one filter change with the Mobil 1. I use the Trasko also and it filters oil very well. I think I too can go with extended oil since using the Amsoil 0-30...I feel the oil too can go over 25,000 miles using this filter ...
Trasko filter changes and UOA every 10,000.
I consume about 1/2 to 3/4 quart every 10,000 miles. This includes toping up filter and keeping engine toped up. I also reuse the oil that I drain from the Trasko during filter change out. I try to use as little new oil as possible.
I should add that its a 95 VW Jetta with a 4 cyl 2.0L engine. Its a daily driver. Driving style is normal, no extreme driving.quote:
Originally posted by Steverino:
50,000 miles on the oil.quote:
Originally posted by Mamala Bay:
Is that 50,000 miles with one filter change with the Mobil 1. I use the Trasko also and it filters oil very well. I think I too can go with extended oil since using the Amsoil 0-30...I feel the oil too can go over 25,000 miles using this filter ...
Trasko filter changes and UOA every 10,000.
I consume about 1/2 to 3/4 quart every 10,000 miles. This includes toping up filter and keeping engine toped up. I also reuse the oil that I drain from the Trasko during filter change out. I try to use as little new oil as possible.
Oh, and the Jetta itself has 157,000 miles on it.quote:
Originally posted by Steverino:
I should add that its a 95 VW Jetta with a 4 cyl 2.0L engine. Its a daily driver. Driving style is normal, no extreme driving.quote:
Originally posted by Steverino:
50,000 miles on the oil.quote:
Originally posted by Mamala Bay:
Is that 50,000 miles with one filter change with the Mobil 1. I use the Trasko also and it filters oil very well. I think I too can go with extended oil since using the Amsoil 0-30...I feel the oil too can go over 25,000 miles using this filter ...
Trasko filter changes and UOA every 10,000.
I consume about 1/2 to 3/4 quart every 10,000 miles. This includes toping up filter and keeping engine toped up. I also reuse the oil that I drain from the Trasko during filter change out. I try to use as little new oil as possible.
Steverino: Can you please post your UOAs? I'd love to see them!!
so you have 50 grand on a trasko using a 10K filter oci and trying to add as little extra oil as possible, and blavkstone still says youre oil is good?
i really need to get me one of these.
how dark is youre oil look? i know the colour has little bearing on the lubricity of the oil but i am curious none the less.
i really need to get me one of these.
how dark is youre oil look? i know the colour has little bearing on the lubricity of the oil but i am curious none the less.
Wow, Steverino - This is really encouraging. I haven't figured out how to post pics yet, but if you pm me the UOA, I'd be happy to type it in.
When you changed out the Trasko filter element, did you find much stuff in the mesh screen? Is the mesh screen trapping much of anything?
When you changed out the Trasko filter element, did you find much stuff in the mesh screen? Is the mesh screen trapping much of anything?
The oil is dark. Its not black, but it is dark. I don't agree with the Trasko website showing pictures of how "clean and clear" their filter can make oil. Maybe its true, but its not my experience.
I moved recently and haven't dug out my most recent UOAs I do have a scan of my 34,000 mile UOA. If anyone cares to post it, I'll send it to them.
Below is a write up that I did when I started all of this. Some of the links in this write up no longer work.
I now have over 50,000 miles on my oil.
Steve’s Little Oil Experiment
In an attempt to increase the life of the engine in my VW Jetta, I have set up my own little experiment concerning synthetic oils, bypass filtration oil analysis, and extended oil change intervals. I got my Jetta at 70,000 miles and was running either Valvoline or Castrol 10W40 and Fram oil filters. Fram oil filters, by the way, appear to be one of the most cheaply constructed filters on the market. Although I never had a single problem with them, after seeing one of them cut open, I'll spend the extra money for something different.
My 95 Jetta had 106,000 miles when I switched it over to Mobil 1 oil and used a Mobil 1 oil filter. My engine was, and continues to be, oil-tight. This was a big worry for me because I had heard the stories of how the synthetic oils had cleaned the engines so well that they began to leak. I went with Mobil 1 because it was easier to obtain and less expensive than Redline.(
http://www.redlineoil.com/
)I may put in Redline eventually if all of this seems to be beneficial.
I then started researching bypass filtration. The two systems that I finally narrowed my choices down to were the Gulf Coast filter unit and the Trasko filter unit. Belgoes Filtration Systems
http://www.fuelpolishing.com/index.htm
has a great website that explains bypass filtration and why its a great thing to do. They also sell the Gulf Coast filtration units. Trasko's website
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
is okay but leaves one apprehensive about the product. They have recently starting selling some products that even I consider flim-flam apparatus. Their most recent thing is a “ fuel enhancer that goes in the fuel line and supposedly increases hp, mileage, sex drive etc……
Why did I end up with these two as my choices? I found there to be generally three types of bypass systems:
1. External and supplemental. The original spin-on full flow filter is still used. The bypass unit is installed somewhere under the hood and plumbed into the engine with the supply typically teed off of the oil pressure sensor and the return draining back to the oil pan. Of these types of bypass filters, the Gulf Coast oil filter
http://www.fuelpolishing.com/index.htm
was about the least expensive to purchase and was the absolute cheapest in terms of replacement filter media. It uses institution grade toilet paper. Institution grade toilet paper, by the way, is the same physical size as the stuff you buy in the grocery store. Institution grade toilet paper is the stuff you run across in gas stations and cheap hotels. Its typically the single ply, 1000 sheet stuff that last a long time on the roll but is not particularly soft on the butt.
2. Relocation kit type. Relocation kit type uses an adaptor plate where the regular full flow filter goes and runs hoses to where the relocated spin-on full flow filter and separate spin-on bypass filter are mounted.
http://www.amsoil.com/
sells this type of filter system.
3.Spin on combination full flow and bypass: This is the Trasko unit
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
. I have not been able to find anyone else who manufacturers a product like this. This unit replaces the disposable full flow filter with one that is supposed to function as a full flow filter and bypass filtration unit. The unit has a filter element that is replaceable. Like I was saying the website did not instill confidence in the product. I found a second website who was evidently the Korean rep
http://www.sgjeong.com/
, but the site is no longer up.
The operation of the Trasko filter is pretty innovative. It wasn't until it arrived that I could really see how it worked. In short: oil flows into the filter and through an 8 micron filter screen. ( At least they say its an 8 micron screen, I don't know what an 8 micron screen looks like.) After passing through the screen, the oil either passes through the replaceable filter cartridge or returns straight to the engine through a spring loaded pressure relief device. Another way of looking at it is that it’s a combination 8 micron full flow filter and mini version of the Gulf Coast bypass filter system.
So why did I go with the Trasko instead of the Gulf Coast Filtration system? I'm cheap and lazy, but I like to try things that are innovative. If I installed the Gulf Coast filter, it would have cost me about $150-$175 and I would have to spend the afternoon mounting it. Finding a spot to mount it would have involved some creativity. Although the cost of the toilet paper / filter media for the Gulf Coast is only maybe $1.00, ( replace every 3000 miles ) I would still have to replace the full flow filter every so often ( once a year? ), which is anywhere from $2.00 to 10.00. The Trasko filter, on the other hand, is a spin on installation that replaces the regular full flow filter. The cost of the filter was about $70.
The replacement filter element cost $10 and is changed every 10,000 miles. Comparing cost and potential installation aggravation led me to choose the Trasko system. Your results may vary.
At 108000 miles I installed the Trasko filter. I reused the oil that came out of the engine during the filter change out.
So now I'm running synthetic oil and supposedly a super efficient filter. The next thing that I wanted to examine was extended oil drain intervals. The trick to extending oil drain intervals is knowing when it should be changed. To know when it should be changed, it has to be periodically tested and analyzed. Once again I started surfing the internet for oil testing companies. Most of the companies I found charged $20 to $30 for an oil analysis. I finally found Petroleum Products Monitoring
http://www.ppmoiltesting.com/
They are primarily used by large fleet operators. There are 4 levels of analysis packages available. Their analysis packages are called A, B, C, and D, with package D being the most comprehensive. Package D costs $8.50. The only catch is that they sell in a minimum of "6 packs" so 6 tests cost me $51.00 including shipping. They are really set up for commercial clients. They don't take credit cards. You call them and they mail you the kits and an invoice.
So here is a summary of my little experiment
106,000 miles on engine
0 miles on oil
Switched over to Mobil 1 oil and used a Mobil 1 oil filter.
Sent in a sample of unused motor oil to establish a baseline to compare against used oil samples.
108,647 miles miles on engine
2607 miles on oil
Replaced Mobil 1 filter with Trasko filter
Sent in a sample of the used oil in engine. I obtained the sample by using some clear aquarium air tubing ( $0.95 at Wal-Mart )and siphoning it out of the dipstick tube.
114940 miles on engine
8940 miles on oil
Sent in a sample of the used oil in engine
Changed out Trasko replacable filter element
Added 1/2 quart of Mobil 1 oil
116600 miles on engine
10600 miles on oil
Added 1/4 quart of Mobil 1 oil
I moved recently and haven't dug out my most recent UOAs I do have a scan of my 34,000 mile UOA. If anyone cares to post it, I'll send it to them.
Below is a write up that I did when I started all of this. Some of the links in this write up no longer work.
I now have over 50,000 miles on my oil.
Steve’s Little Oil Experiment
In an attempt to increase the life of the engine in my VW Jetta, I have set up my own little experiment concerning synthetic oils, bypass filtration oil analysis, and extended oil change intervals. I got my Jetta at 70,000 miles and was running either Valvoline or Castrol 10W40 and Fram oil filters. Fram oil filters, by the way, appear to be one of the most cheaply constructed filters on the market. Although I never had a single problem with them, after seeing one of them cut open, I'll spend the extra money for something different.
My 95 Jetta had 106,000 miles when I switched it over to Mobil 1 oil and used a Mobil 1 oil filter. My engine was, and continues to be, oil-tight. This was a big worry for me because I had heard the stories of how the synthetic oils had cleaned the engines so well that they began to leak. I went with Mobil 1 because it was easier to obtain and less expensive than Redline.(
http://www.redlineoil.com/
)I may put in Redline eventually if all of this seems to be beneficial.
I then started researching bypass filtration. The two systems that I finally narrowed my choices down to were the Gulf Coast filter unit and the Trasko filter unit. Belgoes Filtration Systems
http://www.fuelpolishing.com/index.htm
has a great website that explains bypass filtration and why its a great thing to do. They also sell the Gulf Coast filtration units. Trasko's website
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
is okay but leaves one apprehensive about the product. They have recently starting selling some products that even I consider flim-flam apparatus. Their most recent thing is a “ fuel enhancer that goes in the fuel line and supposedly increases hp, mileage, sex drive etc……
Why did I end up with these two as my choices? I found there to be generally three types of bypass systems:
1. External and supplemental. The original spin-on full flow filter is still used. The bypass unit is installed somewhere under the hood and plumbed into the engine with the supply typically teed off of the oil pressure sensor and the return draining back to the oil pan. Of these types of bypass filters, the Gulf Coast oil filter
http://www.fuelpolishing.com/index.htm
was about the least expensive to purchase and was the absolute cheapest in terms of replacement filter media. It uses institution grade toilet paper. Institution grade toilet paper, by the way, is the same physical size as the stuff you buy in the grocery store. Institution grade toilet paper is the stuff you run across in gas stations and cheap hotels. Its typically the single ply, 1000 sheet stuff that last a long time on the roll but is not particularly soft on the butt.
2. Relocation kit type. Relocation kit type uses an adaptor plate where the regular full flow filter goes and runs hoses to where the relocated spin-on full flow filter and separate spin-on bypass filter are mounted.
http://www.amsoil.com/
sells this type of filter system.
3.Spin on combination full flow and bypass: This is the Trasko unit
http://www.trasko-usa.com/
. I have not been able to find anyone else who manufacturers a product like this. This unit replaces the disposable full flow filter with one that is supposed to function as a full flow filter and bypass filtration unit. The unit has a filter element that is replaceable. Like I was saying the website did not instill confidence in the product. I found a second website who was evidently the Korean rep
http://www.sgjeong.com/
, but the site is no longer up.
The operation of the Trasko filter is pretty innovative. It wasn't until it arrived that I could really see how it worked. In short: oil flows into the filter and through an 8 micron filter screen. ( At least they say its an 8 micron screen, I don't know what an 8 micron screen looks like.) After passing through the screen, the oil either passes through the replaceable filter cartridge or returns straight to the engine through a spring loaded pressure relief device. Another way of looking at it is that it’s a combination 8 micron full flow filter and mini version of the Gulf Coast bypass filter system.
So why did I go with the Trasko instead of the Gulf Coast Filtration system? I'm cheap and lazy, but I like to try things that are innovative. If I installed the Gulf Coast filter, it would have cost me about $150-$175 and I would have to spend the afternoon mounting it. Finding a spot to mount it would have involved some creativity. Although the cost of the toilet paper / filter media for the Gulf Coast is only maybe $1.00, ( replace every 3000 miles ) I would still have to replace the full flow filter every so often ( once a year? ), which is anywhere from $2.00 to 10.00. The Trasko filter, on the other hand, is a spin on installation that replaces the regular full flow filter. The cost of the filter was about $70.
The replacement filter element cost $10 and is changed every 10,000 miles. Comparing cost and potential installation aggravation led me to choose the Trasko system. Your results may vary.
At 108000 miles I installed the Trasko filter. I reused the oil that came out of the engine during the filter change out.
So now I'm running synthetic oil and supposedly a super efficient filter. The next thing that I wanted to examine was extended oil drain intervals. The trick to extending oil drain intervals is knowing when it should be changed. To know when it should be changed, it has to be periodically tested and analyzed. Once again I started surfing the internet for oil testing companies. Most of the companies I found charged $20 to $30 for an oil analysis. I finally found Petroleum Products Monitoring
http://www.ppmoiltesting.com/
They are primarily used by large fleet operators. There are 4 levels of analysis packages available. Their analysis packages are called A, B, C, and D, with package D being the most comprehensive. Package D costs $8.50. The only catch is that they sell in a minimum of "6 packs" so 6 tests cost me $51.00 including shipping. They are really set up for commercial clients. They don't take credit cards. You call them and they mail you the kits and an invoice.
So here is a summary of my little experiment
106,000 miles on engine
0 miles on oil
Switched over to Mobil 1 oil and used a Mobil 1 oil filter.
Sent in a sample of unused motor oil to establish a baseline to compare against used oil samples.
108,647 miles miles on engine
2607 miles on oil
Replaced Mobil 1 filter with Trasko filter
Sent in a sample of the used oil in engine. I obtained the sample by using some clear aquarium air tubing ( $0.95 at Wal-Mart )and siphoning it out of the dipstick tube.
114940 miles on engine
8940 miles on oil
Sent in a sample of the used oil in engine
Changed out Trasko replacable filter element
Added 1/2 quart of Mobil 1 oil
116600 miles on engine
10600 miles on oil
Added 1/4 quart of Mobil 1 oil
slalom44,
I sent you a private message yesterday.
Did you receive it?
I sent you a private message yesterday.
Did you receive it?
Yes. Thanks.
Reply sent.
Reply sent.
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