Ottawa,Ontario to Buffalo, NY (Darren Lake to be exact) pulling a camper trailer with my Nitro 3.7L using Pennzoil Platinum 5w20. Ran like a champ!
Is 5W20 still fine for long road trips
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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What I wonder,is why do some car manufacturers recommend thicker oils for extended high speeds and/or racing?
Well if he does the 1000 mile trip in 8 hours, then I'd say he might need some thicker oil. If the oil temps get high enough you need thicker oil to maintain proper oil pressure, plus thicker oils tend to have higher flash point temperatures as well which could be an issue in engines run wide open for extended periods of time.
Lets see. 1000 miles in 8 hours. Like 125 MPH without stopping. may want to opt for a differant vehicle.
I know right?
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What I wonder,is why do some car manufacturers recommend thicker oils for extended high speeds and/or racing?
Well if he does the 1000 mile trip in 8 hours, then I'd say he might need some thicker oil. If the oil temps get high enough you need thicker oil to maintain proper oil pressure, plus thicker oils tend to have higher flash point temperatures as well which could be an issue in engines run wide open for extended periods of time.
Lets see. 1000 miles in 8 hours. Like 125 MPH without stopping. may want to opt for a differant vehicle.
I know right?
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What I wonder,is why do some car manufacturers recommend thicker oils for extended high speeds and/or racing?
Well if he does the 1000 mile trip in 8 hours, then I'd say he might need some thicker oil. If the oil temps get high enough you need thicker oil to maintain proper oil pressure, plus thicker oils tend to have higher flash point temperatures as well which could be an issue in engines run wide open for extended periods of time.
Lets see. 1000 miles in 8 hours. Like 125 MPH without stopping. may want to opt for a differant vehicle.
I know right?
That be one gnarly road trip. I will bring my V1 for added fun with cops!!!
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: IndyIan
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
What I wonder,is why do some car manufacturers recommend thicker oils for extended high speeds and/or racing?
Well if he does the 1000 mile trip in 8 hours, then I'd say he might need some thicker oil. If the oil temps get high enough you need thicker oil to maintain proper oil pressure, plus thicker oils tend to have higher flash point temperatures as well which could be an issue in engines run wide open for extended periods of time.
Lets see. 1000 miles in 8 hours. Like 125 MPH without stopping. may want to opt for a differant vehicle.
I know right?
That be one gnarly road trip. I will bring my V1 for added fun with cops!!!
So why does GM spec a quality syn (w Higher EP/AW than ILSAC) for the engines they warranty to 100K miles (and have long skin in the game)?
- That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma. If you aint G-Ma I'd be doing Ams ATM.
- That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma. If you aint G-Ma I'd be doing Ams ATM.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
So why does GM spec a quality syn (w Higher EP/AW than ILSAC) for the engines they warranty to 100K miles (and have long skin in the game)?
- That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma. If you aint G-Ma I'd be doing Ams ATM.
Did someone hack your account? This makes no sense.
So why does GM spec a quality syn (w Higher EP/AW than ILSAC) for the engines they warranty to 100K miles (and have long skin in the game)?
- That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma. If you aint G-Ma I'd be doing Ams ATM.
Did someone hack your account? This makes no sense.
If 5w-20 wasn't fine for long trips, our Fit would have been long dead by now. It's seen only 5w-20 or 0w-20 it's entire life.
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma.
I respectfully disagree with this. I "ain't" Grandma and I have heavily loaded my FX4 and pulled from Houston to Cheyenne without stopping (except fuel and bio breaks) and it was 100+ degrees all the way and I drove 70-80MPH while using 5W-20. I have had ZERO issues and my used oil analysis are a testament to that.
I do not know why 5W-20 is pounded on so much--many 5w30 oils shear into a 20 grade anyway so what is the big deal?
I have been running PU from the first OC, but I will soon be switching to Mobil Super and will see how well conventional 5W-20 withstands the heat and load when towing. To the OP; I would not hesitate to run it...
That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma.
I respectfully disagree with this. I "ain't" Grandma and I have heavily loaded my FX4 and pulled from Houston to Cheyenne without stopping (except fuel and bio breaks) and it was 100+ degrees all the way and I drove 70-80MPH while using 5W-20. I have had ZERO issues and my used oil analysis are a testament to that.
I do not know why 5W-20 is pounded on so much--many 5w30 oils shear into a 20 grade anyway so what is the big deal?
I have been running PU from the first OC, but I will soon be switching to Mobil Super and will see how well conventional 5W-20 withstands the heat and load when towing. To the OP; I would not hesitate to run it...
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
So why does GM spec a quality syn (w Higher EP/AW than ILSAC) for the engines they warranty to 100K miles (and have long skin in the game)?
- That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma. If you aint G-Ma I'd be doing Ams ATM.
Did someone hack your account? This makes no sense.
I think its his meds half his posts are good and the other half make me scratch my head.
Esp since GM is switching to 5w20....
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
So why does GM spec a quality syn (w Higher EP/AW than ILSAC) for the engines they warranty to 100K miles (and have long skin in the game)?
- That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma. If you aint G-Ma I'd be doing Ams ATM.
Did someone hack your account? This makes no sense.
I think its his meds half his posts are good and the other half make me scratch my head.
Esp since GM is switching to 5w20....
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Thanks all. Picked up some 5q jugs of 0W20 (M1) at Walmart. Oil was perfect looking before I test drove it, but since the car sat sat for 1 1/2 years before I bought it I asked for a PDI and an oil change. They said they did, receipt and all so I'll hold off until I reach at least 1k miles or right before my first long haul next month. Probably a little excessive, but yeah, I've had oilitis for a while! (About time I showed up over here!) Thanks again!
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma.
I respectfully disagree with this. I "ain't" Grandma and I have heavily loaded my FX4 and pulled from Houston to Cheyenne without stopping (except fuel and bio breaks) and it was 100+ degrees all the way and I drove 70-80MPH while using 5W-20. I have had ZERO issues and my used oil analysis are a testament to that.
I do not know why 5W-20 is pounded on so much--many 5w30 oils shear into a 20 grade anyway so what is the big deal?
I have been running PU from the first OC, but I will soon be switching to Mobil Super and will see how well conventional 5W-20 withstands the heat and load when towing. To the OP; I would not hesitate to run it...
The OP has a engine know for piston slap issues and has a smaller sump than the truck guys. 20 grade with large sump and oil cooler and cold thermostat = 30 grade performance.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
That says it all. GM have the data. 20 is just for CAFE and grandma.
I respectfully disagree with this. I "ain't" Grandma and I have heavily loaded my FX4 and pulled from Houston to Cheyenne without stopping (except fuel and bio breaks) and it was 100+ degrees all the way and I drove 70-80MPH while using 5W-20. I have had ZERO issues and my used oil analysis are a testament to that.
I do not know why 5W-20 is pounded on so much--many 5w30 oils shear into a 20 grade anyway so what is the big deal?
I have been running PU from the first OC, but I will soon be switching to Mobil Super and will see how well conventional 5W-20 withstands the heat and load when towing. To the OP; I would not hesitate to run it...
The OP has a engine know for piston slap issues and has a smaller sump than the truck guys. 20 grade with large sump and oil cooler and cold thermostat = 30 grade performance.
My work truck is a 2001 F-150, 4.6 Triton 16 valve SOHC. It has 163K on it, and gets bulk 5W-20 like all of our gasser fleet. I had a spark plug blowout of the head a 143K, they put the inserts into the head and we're going to run it until it dies. It won't die because of the oil, I assure you. I regularly make trips to Richmond, VA from Philadelphia with a fully loaded truck. NO Problems in summer w/the air on and in a traffic jam!
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
The OP has a engine know for piston slap issues and has a smaller sump than the truck guys. 20 grade with large sump and oil cooler and cold thermostat = 30 grade performance.
I suppose I do not see how running a 20 grade "colder" will equal a 30 grade. IF I (and I will not) were to run 30 grade in my FX4 (all things being equal) what grade would I have then? 40?
The OP has a engine know for piston slap issues and has a smaller sump than the truck guys. 20 grade with large sump and oil cooler and cold thermostat = 30 grade performance.
I suppose I do not see how running a 20 grade "colder" will equal a 30 grade. IF I (and I will not) were to run 30 grade in my FX4 (all things being equal) what grade would I have then? 40?
If you really want to run something thin that will kill your engine, dump kerosene in it.
If it specs 5W-20, just use 5W-20, because your engine is _NOT_ going to blow up.
Why do they recommend heavier oil in racing cars? Because when you have your foot to the floor for hours on end, the oil is going to get much hotter. For town driving and cruising, the thermostat and oil cooler (if you have one) are going to easily handle the job.
But in high performance, high power engines, the oil is going to get hotter.
If it specs 5W-20, just use 5W-20, because your engine is _NOT_ going to blow up.
Why do they recommend heavier oil in racing cars? Because when you have your foot to the floor for hours on end, the oil is going to get much hotter. For town driving and cruising, the thermostat and oil cooler (if you have one) are going to easily handle the job.
But in high performance, high power engines, the oil is going to get hotter.
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
The OP has a engine know for piston slap issues and has a smaller sump than the truck guys. 20 grade with large sump and oil cooler and cold thermostat = 30 grade performance.
I suppose I do not see how running a 20 grade "colder" will equal a 30 grade. IF I (and I will not) were to run 30 grade in my FX4 (all things being equal) what grade would I have then? 40?
Oil is thicker when colder. So theoretically, by running a lower thermostat (Especially with an oil-water cooler) you could get a 30wt oil out of a 20wt.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
The OP has a engine know for piston slap issues and has a smaller sump than the truck guys. 20 grade with large sump and oil cooler and cold thermostat = 30 grade performance.
I suppose I do not see how running a 20 grade "colder" will equal a 30 grade. IF I (and I will not) were to run 30 grade in my FX4 (all things being equal) what grade would I have then? 40?
Oil is thicker when colder. So theoretically, by running a lower thermostat (Especially with an oil-water cooler) you could get a 30wt oil out of a 20wt.
Patman
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Oil is thicker when colder. So theoretically, by running a lower thermostat (Especially with an oil-water cooler) you could get a 30wt oil out of a 20wt.
Nick is correct. To further illustrate it, take your typical 5w20 and it's got a viscosity of around 8.5 cst at 100c (212F) A typical 5w30 will have a viscosity of around 10.5 cst at 100c. But if you've got an engine which has an oil cooler and it keeps that oil at a typical operating temperature of around 195F instead, your 5w20 oil will probably end up having an operating viscosity of roughly 10.5 to 11 cst.
Oil is thicker when colder. So theoretically, by running a lower thermostat (Especially with an oil-water cooler) you could get a 30wt oil out of a 20wt.
Nick is correct. To further illustrate it, take your typical 5w20 and it's got a viscosity of around 8.5 cst at 100c (212F) A typical 5w30 will have a viscosity of around 10.5 cst at 100c. But if you've got an engine which has an oil cooler and it keeps that oil at a typical operating temperature of around 195F instead, your 5w20 oil will probably end up having an operating viscosity of roughly 10.5 to 11 cst.
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Originally Posted By: Patman
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Oil is thicker when colder. So theoretically, by running a lower thermostat (Especially with an oil-water cooler) you could get a 30wt oil out of a 20wt.
Nick is correct. To further illustrate it, take your typical 5w20 and it's got a viscosity of around 8.5 cst at 100c (212F) A typical 5w30 will have a viscosity of around 10.5 cst at 100c. But if you've got an engine which has an oil cooler and it keeps that oil at a typical operating temperature of around 195F instead, your 5w20 oil will probably end up having an operating viscosity of roughly 10.5 to 11 cst.
So at what temp does a 5W-20 become 5, 10, or 15 and is there a chart or calculation that shows this?
Also, would this situation not negate any benefits for the reasons that a 5W-20 was specified in the first place? If I am running a 30 grade all the time (when running 20 grade), in the same context would I be running a 40 grade (when running 30)? Seems the "CAFE" benefits would be lost...
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Oil is thicker when colder. So theoretically, by running a lower thermostat (Especially with an oil-water cooler) you could get a 30wt oil out of a 20wt.
Nick is correct. To further illustrate it, take your typical 5w20 and it's got a viscosity of around 8.5 cst at 100c (212F) A typical 5w30 will have a viscosity of around 10.5 cst at 100c. But if you've got an engine which has an oil cooler and it keeps that oil at a typical operating temperature of around 195F instead, your 5w20 oil will probably end up having an operating viscosity of roughly 10.5 to 11 cst.
So at what temp does a 5W-20 become 5, 10, or 15 and is there a chart or calculation that shows this?
Also, would this situation not negate any benefits for the reasons that a 5W-20 was specified in the first place? If I am running a 30 grade all the time (when running 20 grade), in the same context would I be running a 40 grade (when running 30)? Seems the "CAFE" benefits would be lost...
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I'm gonna' go out on a limb here and opine that the smallest difference in fuel economy GRADE vs. GRADE is on a long highway road trip.
There might be a small difference around town between a 5W-20 and a 10w30 but I'd bet on the highway it becomes minuscule, and depending on the vehicle and the speed, might disappear altogether.
Best mileage/tankful I ever got in the SVX was a tank of regular (probably didn't have ANY ethanol in it) and an average speed of about 85 going across Kansas late at night. Almost 32 mpg and 500+ miles, no stops what-so-ever.
Got passed @ 3am by a KHP Crown Vic that had to be going well over 100mph and he didn't even blink at me: no flashing lights or siren, just a "Whoosh!" as he went by...
Cheers!
p.s. Oil was 10w30 PP, btw.
There might be a small difference around town between a 5W-20 and a 10w30 but I'd bet on the highway it becomes minuscule, and depending on the vehicle and the speed, might disappear altogether.
Best mileage/tankful I ever got in the SVX was a tank of regular (probably didn't have ANY ethanol in it) and an average speed of about 85 going across Kansas late at night. Almost 32 mpg and 500+ miles, no stops what-so-ever.
Got passed @ 3am by a KHP Crown Vic that had to be going well over 100mph and he didn't even blink at me: no flashing lights or siren, just a "Whoosh!" as he went by...
Cheers!
p.s. Oil was 10w30 PP, btw.
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