It wasn't too late for my 127k Hyundai. If the transmission is working fine now it will work fine after a fluid change. I think this myth about high mileage changes ruining transmissions got started because people would ignore the transmission until it started acting up, then change the fluid and blame the fluid change on the failure. It like waiting for rod knock to change your oil, then complaining that the oil change clogged the pickup and windowed the block.Hello, everyone,
I am planning some spring maintenance on a 2011 BMW 328i X-Drive.
It currently has 128 thousand miles.
I want to change the transmission fluid and filter, along with changing the transfer case fluid.
The plan was the drop the pan, replace the filter, gasket, clean the pan, and refill with Valvoline Maxlife ATF. And then do a few more drain/fills.
And for the transfer case, just to change the fluid along with a new drain/fill plug.
But I am just worried that the millage that I'm at is too late, and I will cause more damage compared to not touching the transmission and transfer case.
I'm not having any issues with the transmission or transfer case. I'm worried about longevity.
The differentials are getting changed out with Redline 75w-90 GL-5, so that is one less fluid I need to worry about.
I will also be completing an oil change, and power steering fluid swap with CHF-11S.
I am just looking for any general advice or past experiences to aid in my decision.
Hmm, I might send the fluid off for analysis.Tell you what, if it concerns you that much...maybe just do a simple drain and fill. Then drive around with that for a good 5,000 miles, see if it feels any different, if not? Then go ahead and drop that pan, change the filter, clean it out, new gasket and put it all together. But I’d use factory fluid regardless.
I'm going to try to do it without resetting the fluid wear.
I can read the fluid temperature just fine.But why? Of course it will "work", there is no "try", but the fluid friction adaptations are part of the function and longevity of the transfer case. Arguably one of the things on the car you least want to have issues with.
IMO, and reading between the lines, it sounds like you might be avoiding building up the electronic portion of your DIY toolbox. I would not recommend entering into a long term DIY relationship with an out of warranty BMW (especially 2006+) without certain electronics in your toolbox. That's just the way it is, and it doesn't have to be expensive. Let the BMW specific forums guide you. Then you'll also have the tools to get to work when you have a problem instead of just maintenance.
Have the right tools, follow the proper procedures. You're going to need to register batteries, code injectors, read fault codes, put electronic parking brakes into "service mode" and all kinds of other stuff during your DIY days. Even doing the transmission fluid change - there is a fluid leveling function you need to perform with the engine running and the transmission at a certain temperature. You can futz around with IR thermometers, or read the temperature off the screen.
Also, based on some direct experience with an E39 (was it GM or ZF? Might have been ZF. It called for LT71141) the filter is something you really want to change. A clean filter isn't going to break or dislodge anything. If it's factory original, it's full of wear and break in material. The E39 in question shifted a little funny since new and kept getting stranger and stranger. The dealer was asked to change fluid and filter every 50k km but it was discovered they were only changing the fluid. A filter change and changing out to Amsoil ATF and it was better than the day it drove off the lot and stayed that way. I think something was off with the filter...
Oh really? DEX Vl? Yeah then I’d feel good about running the Maxlife. Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought a BMW would run DEX Vl in their tranny, good to know.Hmm, I might send the fluid off for analysis.
Fluid wise, it calls for Dexron VI, and Maxlife is basically just an enhanced Dex VI
My old BMW did, it listed DEXRON-II or -III which has been superseded to DEXRON-VI. I used that for many years until I then started using Maxlife.Oh really? DEX Vl? Yeah then I’d feel good about running the Maxlife. Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought a BMW would run DEX Vl in their tranny, good to know.
They used GM transmissions for some models and years.Oh really? DEX Vl? Yeah then I’d feel good about running the Maxlife. Never in my wildest dreams would I have thought a BMW would run DEX Vl in their tranny, good to know.
That's because they assume the customer noticed an issue, is a dullard who doesn't understand maintenance, and will blame the mechanic in short time when that issue flares up.I got a garage who has a policy not to service transmission who haven't had any service in over 100,000 miles. And they service a TON of transmissions. "He told me they don't wish to buy anybody a new transmission!".
I prefer not to take it somewhere.The concensus of BMW forums is "change it." Now, changing ATF via the pan+filter means you're changing only about 60% of the fluid. Why? The toque converter has fluid in it. So, I recommend you find a shop that can do an ATF exchange (NOT A FLUSH). Try www.bimrs.org to find a shop in your area. Basically, a flush uses the transmission's cooling system pump (its hoses run to the ATF cooler at the radiator) to remove all of the old fluid which is replaced with new fluid.
Ok, what's the best way to get new fluid into the system?You said you want to change PS fluid? Absolutely change reservoir!!! $35 ZF. It has micrfilter that cannot be changed. It clogs with time and fluid will start leaking from reservoir. If you neglect, pump is next.
I used turkey baster.