Is 112k miles too high mileage for a Transmission service?

Since you have an automatic transmission, I would second the suggestion to not do a full flush if it has never been touched for 112k miles. There is no such thing as a "lifetime" fluid, so regardless of how yours looks if it has never been serviced it wouldn't be a bad idea to do a slow replacement (with that said, how does it look?). Start an expedited drain and refill cycle. Maybe every 15k miles for 3 rounds? With her shifting a bit odd the pan and filter would also be reasonable to service. That's probably what I would do.

Also, as far as Maxlife goes, I bought my Camry at 60k miles and flushed out the Toyota WS with Maxlife. Simple 30k mile drain and fills after that and she shifts the same at 160k miles as she did at 60k miles. My Civic has had Honda DW-1 with 30k mile drain and fills and she shifts the same at 130k miles as she did at 130 miles. I am a firm believe that clean fluid >>>>> what fluid... except for the Honda. She gets Honda ATF and I sleep better at night.
 
Drain, open level eye, fill till trickle, start engine, go thru gears while staying in each 3 to 5 sec, top of ATF level while engine still runs. There is 200ml more to put in after you start the engine.
 
Your car should be fine doing a return line flush. Simple process and every straight forward.

Drain pain and over filled by 2 quarts
Disconnect return line and run the car till bubbles come out. Stop car.
Refill tranny and repeat again.
Connect return line back, refill and check levels.

Not hard at all
 
Your car should be fine doing a return line flush. Simple process and every straight forward.

Drain pain and over filled by 2 quarts
Disconnect return line and run the car till bubbles come out. Stop car.
Refill tranny and repeat again.
Connect return line back, refill and check levels.

Not hard at all
I am legitimately curious at approximately what point of unattended transmission fluid does clutch material begin to suspend and therefore prevent a flush? Barring other variables like driving habits and whatnot. Is 112k still in the green?
 
The definition of HM vehicle is one that is like a 2000 car that never had a change (it is not worth the effort anyway it’s toast). A 2018 automobile in my opinion is like a new car go ahead and do it and in the process keep up the work. 60k flushes for transmission and 30K flushes for PS units
 
Ok I appreciate the helpful tip, and it sounds like a straight forward process. But I'm just curious about something, going off of the bold portion, you're not suggesting to start and run the car after draining fluid out are you? Because I may be misunderstanding you, and I thought you definitely don't want to run a car with low transmission fluid.

I hope you can see where my confusion is, I apologize if I don't get it. I've not don't done a transmission service yet
No sir. Fill the fluid with the pump until it runs out. install plug and start car. Shift from PRDRDRDP. After its warms a bit as described earlier, crawl back under. In neutral, pull plug, and (more than likely) nothing will come out. Then pump until a small “stream” trickles out of the check hole. Then install plug and you’re good. Apologies for any confusion.
 
There is a difference between a flush (generally including a flushing fluid) and a cooler fluid exchange. Do a drain and refill if that's what you are comfortable doing, or learn how to do a fluid exchange using a cooler line. This is a better way but either one will work.
Old man yelling at clouds. As a group representing the most prominent lubrication forum on the interweb, I wish we would adopt the correct terminology regarding transmission fluid changes. It's not complicated.

1.) Fluid drain and fill - remove pan or drain plug, drain fluid, refill. Change filter (or not) on some transmissions. (many non-serviceable).
2.) Complete fluid exchange - using the transmission in/out lines, allow the transmission pump to push most of the fluid out while being replaced at the same time. DIY drain/fill or T-Tech type machines do this - NO high pressure or "back flushing" is involved.
3.) Fluid flush - again using a T-Tech type machine (no pressure/backflush) introduce a cleaning fluid into process #2.

I think the consensus at BITOG is (should be) that on questionable older transmissions, #1 is safest as it only partially changes the fluid, easing the cleaning action, and reducing chances of fouling a gunked up transmission with a "shock treatment". Regularly maintained transmissions should do o.k. with any of the 3 methods. Some brands (Honda) only recommend the drain and fill #1.

Flame suit on and I welcome any correction to my above statements.
 
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I’m sure there are YouTube videos on how to do a drain and fill on these. For someone new to working on cars, it’s best to see how it’s done instead of just reading about the process.

But like others mentioned, do a drain and fill yourself. May as well take this opportunity and learn because as you’re finding out, the “professionals” don’t want to touch older and higher mileage cars.
 
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On all of my vehicles, starting in the 1980's, I'd weld on an (aircraft) AN fitting as a transmission drain plug. Occasionally performing a drain and fill. Nothing more than that ever. With the one exception of a particularly troublesome transmission. That thing got a drain and fill every other oil change.

I've owned plenty of clunker vehicles, and the drain n fill never damaged a transmission. I'd guess it extended the transmission's life, but hard data would be difficult to find on that.

Anyway, I'd drain n fill.
 
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Many moons ago ,I bought a '02 Ford Explorer used with about 60k on the clock. It did come with the owners manual, and it said to change the trans oil around 115. I did it at 100k. And wouldn't you know 2 years ago with just at a little past 250k on it, the trans went out on it.,,
 
In all my Hyundai and Kia vehicles I do a drain/fill at around 60K. Then every 30K after that. Never had a problem with any of the transmissions.

Since you have 112K, do a drain/fill using Maxlife (it's perfetly fine, all I have ever used.) Then, do it again next oil change, then again on oil change after that. Then, every 30K do a drain/fill. You will be good to go. If you want to just replace all the fluid with new, do the return line replacement described above.
 
Never too late. It's worth doing two or three drain and fills. Don't need to worry about changing the filter unless you really want to since It's not close to even starting to clog at just 112k. If the 2-3 spill and fills do nothing then at that point trade the vehicle in fast before it gets worse.
 
I vote just a drain and fill....but change that filter too! Sometimes clean new fluid can loosen any deposits or build up and overwhelm the filter. Since it has been 112k miles, drain/fill/replace the filter and then do it again in like 5-10k miles.

Then after that I'd do standard drain/fills at whatever increment the owners manual says.
 
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