Internet pricing on new cars?

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Thinking hard about either a 2012 Accord or a Prius C, even though buying a Prius would mean not being able to make fun of them and their drivers anymore.
I like dealing with new car dealers as much as everyone else does.
Has anyone had any experience with online new car shopping that actually worked?
I'd love to be able to select a deal online and then just go to the store, sign some paperwork and hand them a check.
Does this model exist in the real world?
 
It does exist.Honda Accord 2012 should an easy one as they are trying to dump the car given the new generation 2013 is here.
 
Kinda what I was thinking wrt a 2012 Accord.
Between direct injection and a CVT, if I got an automatic, I don't think I'd want a '13.
 
Get on Honda's dealer website and determine every Honda dealer in at least a 50 mile radius from you (go further out if you want, the more dealers the better.) E mail those dealers with what you want. You will get a full range of prices and it will help you to weed out the jerks you don't want to deal with. When you whittle down dealers and get a good price, set up an appointment with the Internet sales people (most decent sized dealers have them) and do the deal. We did this on our Odyssey van and I am convinced that this is the easiest way to buy a new car. It took them longer to prep the car than it did to buy it. Check the Edmunds forums for guidelines on the most competitive pricing.
 
The internet salespeople are just another form of salespeople. The internet has changed car buying so much that I really doubt the traditional salesman are as problematic as they once were. Carwoo is a good site to use that allows you to anonymously obtain quotes from multiple dealers at once.

You'll be much happier with the Accord than the Prius, honestly. Especially a Prius C. The normal Prius is dreadful enough on the highway.

Also, I sat in a 2013 Accord today. It is a major improvement over the 2012 IMO, and I would honestly take the risk of the CVT and DI than settle for a 2012.
 
Just like Tdbo said, I bought 2012 Camry LE with power driver seat for my friend's sister last summer. I email several dealers around the area, one dealer had the lower price than others, I negotiate online and got the car for about $3,000 less than MSRP.

On the day we picked up the car the paper work was done in less than 30 minutes with no up sell. I called before we came so they prepped the car already when we were at the dealership.

This is the way to buy new car now, since you know what you want just get some dealers compete one another to get you the best price.
 
The Prius is that bad on the highway?
I really didn't know that.
The advantages of the Accord are comfort, room and power.
Any Prius offers great fuel economy along with what has been very good reliability and durability.
I've never driven any Honda model I wasn't comfortable in, back to our first '76 Civic, so I doubt that I'd find a '12 objectionable.
CVT plus DI seems like a bit of a risk, although I'll likely buy a stick if I can find one.
 
Do you belong to Costco? They have a car buying service which I used when I bought my Fit. You sign up on the Costco website and pick the car brand you are interested in. They list the dealers in the area that will provide a low no-haggle price. I got a good deal on my Fit that way.
 
Just try a few. Contacted a couple, one was hungry for business and actually quoted below my target purchase number first try. Got my business.

Money talks. Stating that I have $x right now for y car and Im happy to walk works well too. Especially if the salesman does one of those intro to the manager bits. Of course you have to have the cash. I'm not a fan of no haggle pricing as I've never found it to be as good a deal as I could get with minimal knowledge of their pricing structure plus some math skills.

And if they belittle Internet invoice pricing, challenge them to prove otherwise.
 
If you don't have the cash, you probably shouldn't be new car shopping.
OTOH, even if you are a little cash short, the used car market is pretty tight right now.
My original thought was to retire the '97 Accord, now with 207K, buy a used one and then let my son drive one of them while I drove the other over the winter.
Decent used Accords or Subarus with under 100K are simply out of any reasonable price range, so I figure that I may as well buy something new.
I don't need a project, just reliable winter transportation.
 
Cash is nothing special actually to car industry.

It just means they lose an opportunity of more upsell with loans and related services. I don't think it is a bargaining chip.

I have lied telling them I will take their loan to get a car price lower and magically came up with cash on delivery. It upsets them as they basically discounted the sale price in order to make profit on loan etc.
 
There are a lot of resources out there. Emailing dealers is obviously one option, but takes a little effort unless you use something like Edmunds service. I went to local dealer's websites and looked for internet or fleet sales email addresses, which took time. If there wasn't anything, I'd send to a general mailbox or the sales manager. I told them what I wanted (model, trim, color(s), etc.) and when I was looking to buy (keep it short-term and before the end of the month will speak to them for monthly bonus numbers...you may want to email with a week left in the month). I asked if they had it in stock and could provide me a all-inclusive "out the door" price. No messing around with fees and nonsense. If you want to charge me a $500 doc fee, then roll it into your offer to me.

Some dealers won't answer, some will toss out a weak offer, some will try and pressure you by saying it is good for the weekend, others will actually just put out a good offer. It will at least give you an idea of where the pricing is. Then compare it to invoice or whatever numbers you have. TrueCar used to give you "dealer cost", but they don't offer that after getting sued. Some dealers will try to get you to come in to negotiate further, others will negotiate further on email. I've read from professional car negotiators that picking up the phone can help show you are serious when you get into the later stages of negotiation. Obviously showing up with a checkbook would help too. From my time selling cars, I also try and give the salesman who may have helped with my test drive a chance to get the deal in the end unless they were just terrible.

For popular models, I'd also check out the Edmunds prices paid forum or a forum for that model. An Accord should have a good forum somewhere with people sharing sale prices.

As far as method to buy, cash does one thing: shows you are ready to buy. When I sold cars the sales manager was always hesitant to give a strong number to someone who might be a tire kicker looking to go across town. If you say you can pay cash today if they meet your demands, they will be more aggressive with their pricing. Having financing in hand helps too, as then they don't have to worry about losing a sale when the banks don't bite on the loan. Yet they do make money on the loan, and financing also offers them an avenue to bump a rate and make money. Hence why you never deal in monthly payments and bring your own approval first. When I bought my Subaru, I had 1.79% in my pocket and they beat it with 0.9%. That is what you want if you finance.

Finally, with something like a 2013 Accord which may be relatively "hot" right now, you may do well with a buying service like Costco. Costco's discount is not so amazing on cars where deals are to be had, but on models with a lesser average discount, they can get you the same deal with less hassle. Edmunds has a service. Most banks have a service through TrueCar. I'm not sure how good TrueCar's offers are these days. The "target prices" they offer are pretty weak from my shopping experience.
 
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Originally Posted By: rjundi
Cash is nothing special actually to car industry.

It just means they lose an opportunity of more upsell with loans and related services. I don't think it is a bargaining chip.

I have lied telling them I will take their loan to get a car price lower and magically came up with cash on delivery. It upsets them as they basically discounted the sale price in order to make profit on loan etc.


I'd agree that being silent on it can be a good tactic due to them thinking about the ability to upsell. But being serious about a deal will make them jump if they're trying to move cars, which is when the "I have $x" strategy can work.

Honestly though I've never really had a big push over financing for the most part.
 
I bought the Cobalt and Sonata online, and liked the process. Both dealers were easy to deal with, and gave me great deals this way. I didn't use any particular service, just the "contact us" option on the respective dealer websites.

The face-to-face part of the process was just me taking a test drive, finalizing the deal, and filling out the paperwork.
 
I was recently looking at a 2013 Subaru Outback (until my priorities changed). I used edmunds.com to receive quotes from dealers. From there I pitted them against each other until I had an offer for the car I wanted at $1000 under INVOICE. Patience and persistence will pay off in a big way

Due to my changed priorities I am currently talking down a dealer on a Honda Odyssey. The important thing to keep in mind is not letting your desire for a new car keeping you from walking away if it is not a good enough deal.


The Internet is a great tool to let dealerships compete if you work it properly.
 
If I wanted a cheap car, I would wait. With Subaru pulling out of the u.s., i would thing you should be seeing some great deals on subbies.
 
Originally Posted By: otis24
If I wanted a cheap car, I would wait. With Subaru pulling out of the u.s., i would thing you should be seeing some great deals on subbies.


I think that it is Suzuki that is pulling out of the U.S., not Subaru.
 
Originally Posted By: otis24
If I wanted a cheap car, I would wait. With Subaru pulling out of the u.s., i would thing you should be seeing some great deals on subbies.


Subaru is here to stay. Suzuki is pulling out.

I called/emailed many Chevy dealers when buying my Cruze. I told them the trim/transmission I wanted, that I already had financing, and that I wanted to buy the car in the next few days. It took a few calls, but a Buffalo-area dealer came in with a price I liked. Others didn't want to deal at all.
 
Originally Posted By: SF0059
I was recently looking at a 2013 Subaru Outback (until my priorities changed). I used edmunds.com to receive quotes from dealers. From there I pitted them against each other until I had an offer for the car I wanted at $1000 under INVOICE. Patience and persistence will pay off in a big way

Due to my changed priorities I am currently talking down a dealer on a Honda Odyssey. The important thing to keep in mind is not letting your desire for a new car keeping you from walking away if it is not a good enough deal.


The Internet is a great tool to let dealerships compete if you work it properly.


I believe the Odyssey has a fairly active internet community on a forum site, I'd check that out to see if you can find some prices paid close to your area. The Outback forums had some useful information for me.

As you said, the key is to be able to walk away from the deal and not care. There is some value in not waiting until your car is a smoking heap and you're in a dealership on Sunday afternoon needing a car to drive to work on Monday. It is also why I would recommend going alone. I'm not knocking significant others, but you need a disciplined front while negotiating and if you have someone whispering in your ear "It is getting late, lets just buy it", you are starting to sink.
 
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I've taken everyone's advice and put out some online feelers.
I've gotten pricing on a '12 Accord LX-P from one dealer as well as a '12 Prius C from another.
The Accord actually came out a little cheaper than the Prius.
Prius retail pricing seems to move with the price of fuel.
So far, I'm looking at $19.2K for the Accord.
We'll see what else turns up.
 
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