Infrequently Used Engines

[The Critic]

Let's say you own a vehicle that does not get used very often -- perhaps once every 10-14 days. The vehicle is also parked outside.
When you drive the vehicle, you will put 5-10 miles on it -- so the oil gets hot, but not for long enough to burn off all fuel and moisture.

Are there any engine oils with extra corrosion inhibitors that could be beneficial for this type of application, or is this a pointless endeavor?

 

[dishdude]

I think you already know the answer. I'd be more worried about brake rotor rust, caliper slides sticking, wheel bearings, bearings on idler pulleys, etc.

I'm storing a Transit Connect at my house that belongs to my company, I drive it once a week and call it a day.

 

[ATex7239]

My daughter’s Hyundai operated in similar conditions to this for a few years. Maybe even harsher conditions.

It could be started up, driven less than 5 miles, shut off, and not touched again for several days. Then later it could be started up, driven less than 5 miles, shut off, and repeated again a few times a day for several consecutive days.

The schedule was unpredictable and distances were rarely more 10 miles. I thought about getting a premium synthetic with yearly intervals. But I opted to just pick up a budget semi or full synthetic and go with seasonal changes. My theory was I’d rather just get it out of there than try to figure out how to combat it.

And also like mentioned above other things didn’t fair as well as the engine/oil from abuse and outside storage, like the tires, windshield wipers, battery, etc.

The vehicle is being driven a lot more and further now so it is not an issue anymore.

 

[buster]

A Hybrid oil but I believe those are only 0w20.

Valvoline actually was on to this problem before others.

"we performed side-by-side ASTM-D7563 emulsion tests comparing Valvoline with the industry-leading synthetic."

Why did Valvoline perform their own tests if its motor oil is already API-certified?​

Industry standards are one thing. Valvoline’s are another. We go above and beyond with rigorous in-house testing plus independent evaluations to ensure Valvoline lubricants provide the best protection and help maximize engine life. Besides, we like to see how well our products perform compared to the competition. Turns out, exceptionally well. Facts are facts. Valvoline full synthetic motor oil is tested and proven to provide 24X stronger protection against engine-killing contaminants than the industry-leading full synthetic.

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/about-us/24x-stronger-protection-faq/

Take note, they're not just formulating to baseline.

 

[demarpaint]

Over the last few decades I owned vehicles that often sat unused for a month or more. None of them had any problems that I was able to detect or see in used oil analysis. As mentioned the brake rotors would flash rust, but by the time I exited my driveway and stopped at the corner stop sign that problem was resolved.

 

[cptbarkey]

2014 Grand Caravan, gets less usage then you are specifying. Still starts/runs even if it sat for 2-3 months with the AGM battery. I think its approaching 38k in the next several months. Is there corrosion inside, I'll probably never know.

 

[Nessism1]

I've brought back a couple dozen motorcycles that sat for extended periods of time, sometimes, decades. I always open the valve cover to check valve clearances, and I've yet to see any rust. Only big worries are if, for example, the carbs were removed, and the intake ports were left open.

 

[SC Maintenance]

This is a non issue on the oil. If oil is on a part it won't rust. If the oil drains or dries somehow - unlikely inside an engine, then it won't matter the brand. I would run the cheapest stuff I could find and change annually for your 260 mile OCI. Or maybe every 2 years.

I assume you keep it on a battery tender. Your big issue will be underside / brake rust if your somewhere that uses salt.

 

[Elkins45]

This is very similar to situation I have with my dad's 98 Chevy. I think it was driven only a little over 1000 miles last year. I'm just doing yearly change on it because I'm fairly confident suspension and drive component rust will kill it long before lubrication issues.

 

[trd1zz]

I would use it more often

 

[ATex7239]

I would use it more often

People > machines > motor oil

This is a foreign on concept on BITOG sometimes but pretty well accepted by most people. Most are not going to completely alter their life/day/situation to suite a machine or its fluids especially since both will inevitably be disposed of at some point anyways.

 

[trd1zz]

People > machines > motor oil

This is a foreign on concept on BITOG sometimes but pretty well accepted by most people. Most are not going to completely alter their life/day/situation to suite a machine or its fluids especially since both will inevitably be disposed of at some point anyways.

Agreed but fact is cars aren't meant to sit. Not driving a car often enough is just another form of ownership neglect.

 

[gfh77665]

Cars are meant to serve owners, not the other way around. Let it sit two weeks and drive when you are ready. It will be fine (I do exactly this). They are not "that" fragile. Don't overthink it.

 

[MNgopher]

Not any different of a drive cycle than many end up in with plug in Hybrids - like my family and its Ford Fusion Energi. Last check, we are at 1100 miles on this tank of gas and in general 400 miles is range of the gas engine. It can go days without running the engine only to start and run agressively immediately as needed.

Agree with other posters - is this the "best" scenario for an engine? No. Does it mean it won't work and run for a very long time? No.

 

[crashz]

My dump truck sits for a week or so at a time in the summer and then all winter long. I try to get it out and driving for a while (I'll run errands with it if not working) but winter it sits outside. I don't start it, just leave it full of fresh fluids and on a battery maintainer. It lives the life of a dirty RV.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Will be putting an 06' Camry LE outside for my daughter. Need to finish paint work on it, ceramic coat, Jescar coat, Collinite coat. It's totally rustproofed underneath, steelies have been painted and clear coated. Fresh fluids. Stabilizer in the full tank. Bought a set a plastic " no get out of round ramps" for the tires. Will cover it up with a top notch outdoor cover & a noco genius 2 tender. Have coated rotors and painted calipers/drums on it. She'll be driving in a year or so. Car going under the deck out of the sun. I'll start it every now and again to keep the juices flowin. Fingers crossed all will be fine when I get it registered. The ramps give it about a 2" lift for air circulation underneath.

 

[D1dad]

I put a yard engine in a car (low mileage) that had set for 5 yrs under a tarp outside. My mechanic bet that it wouldn’t last a year. I sold that car with the engine having over 100k on it, many years later. I know when I go on work trips, some are 5 weeks or more, my car sounds like it’s welded together trying to get out of the parking garage at Detroit metro. Rotors are surface rusted and she’s like me…stiff.

 

[HouseTiger]

I'd also suggest installing a battery maintainer . . . plug in and trickle to maintain.

 

[IndyIan]

Let's say you own a vehicle that does not get used very often -- perhaps once every 10-14 days. The vehicle is also parked outside.
When you drive the vehicle, you will put 5-10 miles on it -- so the oil gets hot, but not for long enough to burn off all fuel and moisture.

Are there any engine oils with extra corrosion inhibitors that could be beneficial for this type of application, or is this a pointless endeavor?

You could just run it in a lower gear for a few of those miles, and get the oil up to temperature quickly, or go for a longer drive once in a while.
Or do nothing different and don't worry about it. I would think most cars would be fine on being run like that, as long as they got a reasonable OCI based on time.

 

[Patman]

You could just run it in a lower gear for a few of those miles, and get the oil up to temperature quickly, or go for a longer drive once in a while.
Or do nothing different and don't worry about it. I would think most cars would be fine on being run like that, as long as they got a reasonable OCI based on time.

In the winter when I take the Corvette out for a drive I run it a gear or two lower to heat up the oil better. If I don’t do that the oil temperature won’t get much above 180 even on a longer drive.