increasing oil consumption

A good point. The OP should have been running an oil with the approvals dictated in the owners manual. @edyvw might have more insights on this.
But what difference does that make if I used the same oil and had a very steady and incremental decline in miles-per-quart interval over 2.5-3 years using that oil the entire time? It would not have happened with a more appropriate oil? We're talking 1300 miles to now 700.
 
But what difference does that make if I used the same oil and had a very steady and incremental decline in miles-per-quart interval over 2.5-3 years using that oil the entire time? It would not have happened with a more appropriate oil? We're talking 1300 miles to now 700.
Probably not for that aspect but a BMW approved oil has many other attributes that are important.
 
Use oils with BMW LL01 or/and MB229.5 approvals.
Currently of readily available oils Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40 is best bet. Quaker State Euro 5W40 can be found cheaply in Wal Mart. It is previous version of PPE.
So switch to oils like that. Firget ILSAC oils available on shelves, your every day Mobil1 5W30. They won’t cut it. Just bcs. it is full synthetic, doesn’t mean it is ok.

So, see where is consumption. If it continues, and you don’t have leaks, PCV might be culprit. It is integrated in Valve Cover.
 
Do you see a puff of bluish smoke on start up or once you rev the engine after it has been idling for awhile? IF so that could be valve guide seals.

Are you driving the vehicle at autobahn speeds? You'll see an increase in consumption at these speeds.

Do you drive the highways often?

Do you remember how the valvetrain looked when you replaced the valve cover gasket? How does it look under the oil cap?

Do you smell oil burning inside the cabin? If so that's typically indicative of an oil leak at the valve cover gasket (Passenger side towards rear).

Other oil leaks check out? Rear main seal, oil pan, oil filter housing gasket?
Do you see a puff of bluish smoke on start up or once you rev the engine after it has been idling for awhile? IF so that could be valve guide seals.
There is some smoke when revving after idling. Not a great deal and I would not say bluish necessarily.

Are you driving the vehicle at autobahn speeds? You'll see an increase in consumption at these speeds.
No. Nothing in driving behavior has changed over 2.5-3 years of this steady and incremental decrease in oil efficiency. There is nothing sudden about this. Gradual and incremental.

Do you drive the highways often?
3-4 times a month. Not very long distances. 10-30 miles maybe.

Do you remember how the valvetrain looked when you replaced the valve cover gasket?
I just know the mechanic I use has generally always thought my engine looked good for its relative age.

How does it look under the oil cap?
I see no evidence oil is being prevented from doing what it does, including drain back.

Do you smell oil burning inside the cabin?
Never once.

Other oil leaks check out? Rear main seal, oil pan, oil filter housing gasket?
Not there yet. Been pouring rain here.
 
Do you see a puff of bluish smoke on start up or once you rev the engine after it has been idling for awhile? IF so that could be valve guide seals.
There is some smoke when revving after idling. Not a great deal and I would not say bluish necessarily.

Are you driving the vehicle at autobahn speeds? You'll see an increase in consumption at these speeds.
No. Nothing in driving behavior has changed over 2.5-3 years of this steady and incremental decrease in oil efficiency. There is nothing sudden about this. Gradual and incremental.

Do you drive the highways often?
3-4 times a month. Not very long distances. 10-30 miles maybe.

Do you remember how the valvetrain looked when you replaced the valve cover gasket?
I just know the mechanic I use has generally always thought my engine looked good for its relative age.

How does it look under the oil cap?
I see no evidence oil is being prevented from doing what it does, including drain back.

Do you smell oil burning inside the cabin?
Never once.

Other oil leaks check out? Rear main seal, oil pan, oil filter housing gasket?
Not there yet. Been pouring rain here.
Perfect.

Depending on your budget you could have a compression test performed but at 140k miles but I'd doubt that's an issue on such a lightly used engine which has been fed a diet of Mobil 1.

In any case if you want to throw a can of liqui moly engine flush with an oil change using a 40w euro oil (Mobil 1 0w40, 5w40 or Pennzoil/Quaker State Euro 5w40) and see what happens.

I'm assuming your engine air filter has been changed on time as well.

You really can't rejuvenate BMW valve stem seals with any mechanic in a can. The seals turn into a hard plastic

On an aside I had an 2006 330 and that engine started to drink oil at 35k miles. BMW used to say that 1 quart/1k miles was "acceptable". Perhaps on the autobahn but I can't see how it would be elsewhere.

GL
 
N51/52 engines are not known for valve stem issues or piston ting issues. It is definitely most solid engine BMW had at that time.
PCV can create issues around that time especially if not appropriate oil used. Other vacuum hoses etc. could become issue.
 
I would seriously consider @edyvw advise here and move up to a 40 grade oil. With consumption at one quart/700 miles that could help. His oil suggestions are good.
I plan to change oils. I just thought it would first be good to address the underlying cause of what was seemingly so steady a decrease in oil performance over time. I realize it's an old car, but still performing well aside from oil consumption.
 
N51/52 engines are not known for valve stem issues or piston ting issues. It is definitely most solid engine BMW had at that time.
PCV can create issues around that time especially if not appropriate oil used. Other vacuum hoses etc. could become issue.
I've definitely heard this from other sources too. It's an important factor to consider in this diagnosis.
 
You'd know if the car leaked at a rate significant enough to notice. the usual parking space would look like exxon valdez sunk there.
There is certainly none of that. I do need get up under there and get covers off though. I do remember my mechanic telling me things looked dry from that perspective a couple years ago. Things would have had to taken a dramatic turn fast because as I said this decrease in oil efficiency probably was beginning at about that time or a year earlier.
 
I noticed you’re often using “oil performance” and “oil efficiency”, those are odd terms. What do you mean by those terms and how are you measuring both? How do you know any of this is related to the oil itself?
 
I noticed you’re often using “oil performance” and “oil efficiency”, those are odd terms. What do you mean by those terms and how are you measuring both? How do you know any of this is related to the oil itself?
I never said the problem was related to the oil I'm using. Quite the opposite. The oil and driving habits have remained consistent and I'm posting to find the cause of the problem--a very consistent decrease in miles between quarts over the past 3 years. From 1300 to 700. Nothing else has changed.

It's others who have talked about and suggested other oils. And yes, I should also probably change what I use as well as finding the underlying problem.
 
I never said the problem was related to the oil I'm using. Quite the opposite. The oil and driving habits have remained consistent and I'm posting to find the cause of the problem--a very consistent decrease in miles between quarts over the past 3 years. From 1300 to 700. Nothing else has changed.

It's others who have talked about and suggested other oils. And yes, I should also probably change what I use as well as finding the underlying problem.
I was just going by the terms you were using. I wondered what oil efficiency and oil performance meant in the context of this discussion.
 
I plan to change oils. I just thought it would first be good to address the underlying cause of what was seemingly so steady a decrease in oil performance over time. I realize it's an old car, but still performing well aside from oil consumption.
Old car? You have 140k on odo. I have 130k and beating loving s… out of it on a track, drop kids to school, drive to work, drive to ski twice a week.
1. Make sure you don’t have any leaks, ESPECIALLY OFHG leak as that $27 piece of rubber can send you looking for another engine.
2. You PCV might be an issue. You used wrong oil that might degraded PCV and other vacuum lines. Don’t forget, these engines run super hot, they will beat inappropriate oil fairly fast.
 
I was just going by the terms you were using. I wondered what oil efficiency and oil performance meant in the context of this discussion.
I meant the number of miles between the computer telling me to add a quart. Perhaps I was a bit loose with my word choices.
 
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